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Tech General Chat


Pico
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Just bought a second hand Lian Li case.

 

Absolutely no idea what I'd need it for, but I like it already

 

xyTXImI.jpg

74cXSsx.png

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The RTX 3080 arrived on the 28th October, damn that is a fine piece of hardware, but it gets bottlenecked by my older pc parts, so i decided to just build a complete new one.

 

I ordered all of that: 

 

AMD Ryzen 9 3900X

ASUS TUF GAMING B550-PLUS

ASUS TUF GT501

ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360

Corsair DIMM 32 GB DDR4-3200 Kit

ASUS GeForce RTX 3080 TUF OC (that one i already have obviously)

be quiet! POWER ZONE 850W

Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1 TB

 

Oh yeah i will be ready for Cyberpunk 2077 in December. :D 

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You didn't want to wait for the Ryzen 5000 series? (they launch on November 5th)

74cXSsx.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

TIL that Lian Li Q37 manual suggests mounting a 2.5" disk on the rear panel, in place of the rear fans

 

ROiJ90w.jpg

 

I am at a loss of words. This is so stupid that I wanna try it out actually. 😛

74cXSsx.png

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On 11/2/2020 at 8:54 AM, yoječ said:

You didn't want to wait for the Ryzen 5000 series? (they launch on November 5th)

I didn't know the release was so close, of course im pissed by that, but the new Ryzen 5000 series is only a bit better, so it's not that bad. Also the 5000 series is more expensive.

 

Probably gonna get a new CPU, RAM, MB and watercooler in 2022 ish anyway, so it's okay. I wait for DDR5 RAM, the new sockets etc. in the meantime what i got now is good enough.

Edited by Mexicola9302
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8 hours ago, Mexicola9302 said:

Also the 5000 series is more expensive.

Yeah, that is so very true. I'm about to build a new PC myself, and while I'd love to have the 5600X, I'm not really convinced if it's worth the price premium over the 3600. I might stick with the latter, especially since I plan to upgrade to 5900X/5950X in the future anyway.

 

Ryzen 3000 series are still great CPUs, have fun 👍

Edited by yoječ

74cXSsx.png

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Anyone have an idea why my audio isn't being detected under playback devices. Realtek drivers are all installed as far as I know. I just switched built a new PC but reused my SSD with the Windows 10 installation so I didn't have to lose everything (even though I backed everything up on an external anyway).

 

The Realtek driver is listed in the Device manager, but the volume playback device only lists "streaming speaker" and my monitors for some reason.

IPMBMBAP

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6 hours ago, KDA said:

Anyone have an idea why my audio isn't being detected under playback devices. Realtek drivers are all installed as far as I know. I just switched built a new PC but reused my SSD with the Windows 10 installation so I didn't have to lose everything (even though I backed everything up on an external anyway).

The Realtek driver is listed in the Device manager, but the volume playback device only lists "streaming speaker" and my monitors for some reason.

What audio, over what kind of connection?

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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It's the rear speaker jack in the back, forgot what size it was. But I've fixed it. There was a conflict in the drivers somewhere so I just did a fresh install on a new SSD so I could keep my old setup. On that new install, another problem came up with ASUS not liking older Win 10 USB installations. I bought 3 sealed copies of Win 10 Pro a few years back and used one on the new build. Since the copies were from 2015-2016, they weren't up to date. And so ASUS drivers kept on failing to install for some reason, making the entire build useless. Ethernet, Wifi, Bluetooth, Chipset drivers, etc. None of the drivers would install and the PC effectively had no internet connection.

 

The ASUS disc driver install did nothing. Downloading the drivers on another PC, and transferring it by USB to the new one didn't work either. Checking BIOS settings turned up nothing.

 

Finally I downloaded the media creation tool on the Microsoft website to make an up to date USB installation drive, and just used the key from my retail package. After the up to date install was done installing, the ROG Armoury Crate literally downloaded every required driver instantly upon logging in. So I'm convinced it must have been something with the date of the Windows 10 retail USB drive.

IPMBMBAP

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's tough to buy a new GPU for a good price these days but I've managed to score a decent deal, 16 megs should last me for years

 

(jk)

 

fxVAE0s.jpg

74cXSsx.png

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I'm thinking about small upgrades for the below but not sure it's worth it anymore:

 

Motherboard: Gigabyte H61M-S1 with two DDR3 RAM slots and a maximum of 16 GB. I currently have 12GB(4/8) at 1330 mhz.
CPU: I5 2500K @3.30Ghz with 4 cores, 4 threads

GPU: 2GB GeForce GTX 760 (still works fine and not a priority for the moment)

HDD: 465GB

+a beautiful Cooler Master Hyper Evo 212 

 

I would like to grab an SSD for the operating system, one 1TB HDD for storage and replace the 4GB RAM with 8GB.

I only play on weekends but I would like it to perform better when I do.

 

Is it worth upgrading? Was also thinking of trading it with a laptop, was curious if there are any upgradeable ones with the same specs as my PC.

 

Edited by IS90
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On 11/17/2020 at 4:41 AM, KDA said:

It's the rear speaker jack in the back, forgot what size it was. But I've fixed it. There was a conflict in the drivers somewhere so I just did a fresh install on a new SSD so I could keep my old setup. On that new install, another problem came up with ASUS not liking older Win 10 USB installations. I bought 3 sealed copies of Win 10 Pro a few years back and used one on the new build. Since the copies were from 2015-2016, they weren't up to date. And so ASUS drivers kept on failing to install for some reason, making the entire build useless. Ethernet, Wifi, Bluetooth, Chipset drivers, etc. None of the drivers would install and the PC effectively had no internet connection.

 

The ASUS disc driver install did nothing. Downloading the drivers on another PC, and transferring it by USB to the new one didn't work either. Checking BIOS settings turned up nothing.

 

Finally I downloaded the media creation tool on the Microsoft website to make an up to date USB installation drive, and just used the key from my retail package. After the up to date install was done installing, the ROG Armoury Crate literally downloaded every required driver instantly upon logging in. So I'm convinced it must have been something with the date of the Windows 10 retail USB drive.

Being an older version of Windows 10 it could be there wasn't support for some portion of the chipset, or indeed USB3 wasn't enabled in some way.  Always throws up issues when I used to do new builds back in the day.

 

Glad it's sorted though.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Welp, didn't get a new graphics card from the dude who comes down my chimney and calls me a ho, predictably. Maybe I'll get a 56-5700/X or Intel equivalent by March or so for the W10 build, with my 1070 still maybe. If I ever make it GPU-wise, I'll be nice and safe for the first few RT games tho, i.e. Metro, Control, etc.. And I'll look up CP77 in a year or five. Chillin'.

Edited by ilya
Man, f*ck PC gaming :D
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  • 5 weeks later...

Who was fed up with waiting for GPU prices to come down, and snatched a second hand RX470 for a reasonable price? Me B)

 

uqOhrL2.jpg

 

Who didn't bother to check if this model actually fits in a ITX case? Also me

 

2BKtJvg.jpg

 

bMDLEQb.jpg

 

Ah crap

Edited by yoječ
  • Like 1
  • Realistic Steak! 1

74cXSsx.png

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GTA3Rockstar

Started to put together my first real build together, not just a cheap generic PC; like an HP or Lenovo with some parts installed.

 

  • Lancool 2 Mesh case
  • Asus Tuf x570 Pro (wifi)
  • AMD R5 5600x
  • 1TB Sabrent Rocket 4.0 NVMe (250gb 960 evo for OS, 500gb 960 evo for backup stuff)
  • 2x16GB DDR4 3600 G Skill Trident Neo
  • Uphere case fans

 

 

 

Currently using my HD7850 I was using in my Lenovo lmao Looking for a 6800XT founders but f*ck trying to get one.

ppNaW16.png

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tried to block updates for my iPhone and was searching through internet to find a way. Found this site and it actually worked even though it was stating that my phone would need to be ios 14 or up in order to have it work.

 

edit: 91C6B616-690C-4CF0-AF5E-9E9956010CCB.png

feedback wat, that thing wasn’t there before.

Edited by Payne
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sivispacem
5 hours ago, Payne said:

I tried to block updates for my iPhone 

Why??

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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The phone i use is a 6s. I watched a video on YouTube and saw the performance on ios 13 is better. Its been talked for a while that apple slows down their old phones with updates, i kinda believe that. But....the actual reason why i would “need a specific profile” is because apple automatically downloads their cancer updates if you have enough space. If you refuse to install the update and delete it, it’s gonna be downloaded again when you’re connected to wi-fi. So if I deleted Gta Liberty City Stories, that sh*t would most likely be installed and could cause me storage problems. Plus, it’s annoying as f*ck.

0AB36021-2C05-4FE5-9364-B40FBE25FEFB.png

It’s working so far.

Edited by Payne
Edit2: fixed broken image
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sivispacem

Seems like a terrible idea given this is currently under active exploitation

 

https://nakedsecurity.sophos.com/2021/01/27/apple-critical-patches-fix-in-the-wild-iphone-exploits-update-now/

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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I need to vent a little.

 

Someone with a very bright mind at Acer made a great decision to have a key combo that restores the factory master boot record. Great, I can see how that can be useful, good job.

 

But why the f*ck did it have to be a one-key combo? Holding the power button, which conveniently rests under your thumb when moving the laptop one-handed? I just did this by accident and wiped my GRUB. Thankfully that's a quick fix once you know what to do (and I do, because it's not the first time this happened...). Dumb design like this is aggrevating. I can see literally no reason why it should be a one-key combo, let alone the power button.

Edited by yoječ

74cXSsx.png

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  • 4 months later...

For people who like to make stuff... McMaster have finally added shipping costs before you place an order. No more unknowns!

 

kWEPkns.jpg

IPMBMBAP

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  • 1 month later...
sivispacem

Got a build date for our home office now, so starting to source the various bits I need for the office. Got a second ROG Swift, sit/stand desk frame is on order, trying to source a nice tabletop in white ash currently.

 

I don't know what to do with my PC, though. During our heatwave a few weeks back I ran into persistent stability issues when gaming, and much to my annoyance I've got some spidering and cracking of my distro plate, as clearly some of the screw locations are too close to other CNC cuts. 

 

I'm in two minds, do I build an X570 ITX system in an O11 Mini and save some space? Or stick with my XL, get an X570S and the front distro, and fill some dead space with tubing runs?

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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deadx23

Um guys help 😭 ok so I'm building a new PC. I got everything down except I think I accidentally bended my m.2 ssd (it has a slight bend) so I installed win 10 anyway but it keeps crashing when installing games and some drivers, everything is new except my psu. I even tried to install games with no drivers (just the win 10 installed ones) but it keeps crashing :c so should I just buy a new ssd?😵💫 I guess I know the answer I will just feel dumb if that wasn't the problem ☹️ 

 

 

🥲

Bought a Samsung  980 1 terror bite

Edited by deadx23
Reasons of me
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sivispacem

It might not be the problem but odds are it probably is. Get s new drive and don't bend it this time.

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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  • 3 weeks later...
sivispacem

Woop

 

PXL-20210821-112452146-PORTRAIT.jpg

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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  • 1 month later...
BUT THE BENZ

oh holy moly....my LG TV (47LB652V) is acting REALLY weird. maybe it's in die-hard-mode right now! (it is 7+ years old)

 

all fine for quite some time....but ever since (about half a year ago) I attached the fire-tv-stick to it (HDMI 3), aside from the PS4 (HDMI 1), it started to act....."overtasked"? well, confused!

 

I would turn off the TV, having watched TV last, but the next day upon switching on it would look for the HDMI 3 input, not able to start that, resuming in a start-up LG logo screen - until I'd switch it off again, sometimes I had to do that multiple times. I found that I had to unplug the fire-tv-stick so it would not "look" for that input and get the normal TV input. the HMDI (1) input for the PS4 caused "trouble" aswell, so I usually made sure to shut down the PS4 and THEN select the TV input before turning of the TV as a whole. so it wouldn't start the PS4 when I switch on the TV the next day - which it did, if I just shut down the PS4 and right afterwards turned off the TV, without using another source for the input.

 

it has this WEB.OS software running everything, but I had it not updated, ever, I think, since I wasn't able to find it in my w-lan, had not put a lan cable in there.

 

now, yesterday, I faced the whole "LG logo screen + nothing happening" again, and as usual I turned it off, and on, and off until I hoped it would find the right input just to get started. but something went wrong (what?! - I honestly don't know) then I briefly saw that WEB.OS logo (which I had not seen before, ever, in the 7 years of using it). something, something, happend there!

 

now after that incident the remote just doesn't FULLY work anymore. I can use it to alter the volume and switch channels, and to turn the TV on/off. BUT I cannot get into the settings, I cannot switch the source of input, canot use the home button, the ? button, nothing really. the screen in the top right corner says "loading" (as it always did) but nothing happens!

 

think I did a reset, at least I wanted to do that, but not sure it worked. there's a few combos you can do with the remote. holding certain buttons for 10 seconds and so on, unpluggin the power cable etc....

right now I'm just glad the TV works (for the kids) - BUT every 15 minutes it switches off, and then on again, by itself. HOTEL mode or something? google led me to find many many possible issues with LG TVs, also to a couple of solutions, but since my remote just won't get me where I need to get, a hard reset or whatever is my only option!? looking into that, when I find the time (which I usually don't have/get)

 

I seriously wish I could just throw it out the window and buy a new one....but my job is highly underpaid so that's not going to happen!

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
ShadowOfThePast
On 10/26/2020 at 2:58 PM, yoječ said:

Just bought a second hand Lian Li case.

 

Absolutely no idea what I'd need it for, but I like it already

 

xyTXImI.jpg

I love aesthetic of this case, no bazillion LEDs like UFO and has simple design. What model is it ?

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Lian Li PC-7

74cXSsx.png

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Got a 'good' deal on a 12700K so I splurged. Paired it with a ASUS Z690 Formula, so I also qualify for a €110 Cashback from ASUS, which is nice.

 

Anyone got a few sticks of DDR5 RAM they're not using? 🤣

 

It's going to be months before I can get my hands on some, I suspect.

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