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Random Technology Questions


Tornado Rex
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No sound on my laptop.

 

One moment it's working fine, the next I have no idea what's happened, but there is no sound whatsoever, the only way it fixes itself seems to be by restarting it. I've tried 'troubleshooting' tests, and updating drivers, but neither have worked. Any suggestions ?

What type of laptop do you have?

 

Depending on the type you have it may be a physical connection issue, in that it's connected enough to load up, but as the system warms up it's enough to loosen the connection.

 

If it's a software issue, depending on the OS you have try checking out the event logs (type eventvwr.msc into the Run command) and see if anything flags up at the time the sound drops

wZVJHXg.png

 

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No sound on my laptop.

 

One moment it's working fine, the next I have no idea what's happened, but there is no sound whatsoever, the only way it fixes itself seems to be by restarting it. I've tried 'troubleshooting' tests, and updating drivers, but neither have worked. Any suggestions ?

What type of laptop do you have?

 

Depending on the type you have it may be a physical connection issue, in that it's connected enough to load up, but as the system warms up it's enough to loosen the connection.

 

If it's a software issue, depending on the OS you have try checking out the event logs (type eventvwr.msc into the Run command) and see if anything flags up at the time the sound drops

 

 

It's a HP Pavilion. Not sure of specific spec, though. You know of any known issues? Google didn't seem to provide much.

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I'm in a weird situation right now: I'm getting worse temps with a Hyper 212 Evo than with Intel's stock cooler. With the latter, my idle was between 28-32c, and with the former, 38-42c. I've reapplied the thermal paste twice (pea method first time, two thin lines where the heat pipes meet second time) and moved my GPU to the more distant PCI slot, which ended up with all four of the fans on my case sending most of their air to the heatsink. Fan RPM is usually ~1400RPM. My temps were almost in the low 30s at 1800RPM but that was far too loud. I'm not overclocked at all right now; that's the whole reason I bought the 212, but I want to get this mess sorted before OCing.

 

I'm considering the thin X method for the paste and if that doesn't work I'm going back to the stock cooler. It's worth noting my case is from a prebuilt and the mobo is basically upside down, so my CPU is getting the coldest air out of all my components, and still this sh*t is happening.

What's the temperature like in your room now, compared to when you were running the stock cooler? Any chance we could get a look at your case with the side off, so we can see how the fans are positioned?

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It's a HP Pavilion. Not sure of specific spec, though. You know of any known issues? Google didn't seem to provide much.

The Pavilion's are quite "skinny" and more like a notepad, which suggest to me that it would be a sound chip as opposed to a sound card, so should be quite solidly attached, so I'm thinking more of a software issue, trying keeping an eye on the event viewer to see if any error messages occur at the time of the sound stopping, if there is report back

wZVJHXg.png

 

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Room temperature is usually ~64-66f (18-19c) now, and it was usually ~70f (21c) with the stock cooler. I took the pictures you asked for, but it turns out I don't need them, because I figured out the problem: my voltage. For some reason, my BIOS was defaulting to 1.42v with no overclock. I've tuned it down to a more reasonable 1.28v (while simultaneously OCing to 3.7Ghz) and now I'm idling around 30C. It doesn't answer why my temps were better with the stock cooler (I assume my voltage was just as high before switching coolers), but it gets them down to a point I'm happy with.

Slosten.gif

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vanillestorms

Hey guys, any source where I can download drivers for netbook Intel Hannspree SN10E100?

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Hello, guys, I've got a few questions for you.

1) I'm starting uni this September and that means I'll be bringing my laptop along with me. What I want to do is to basically secure my laptop. In case of theft, losing it, connecting to a public Wi-Fi access point, whatever.
I'm particularly inspired by this video, where the guy has his machine stolen, but tracked the thief using the stuff he had installed previously (and afterwards), i.e., SSH, VNC, keylogger and so on. So, my question is this: what should I install on/do to my laptop to make it more secure? In any case, having SSH and VNC would be useful for other reasons. Also, hard drive encryption. Can anyone walk me through all this? FYI, I'm running Windows 7 on a Lenovo G580. Also, if it matters, my router at home has an OpenVPN server installed (It's a Linksys WRT54GL with the Tomato firmware, OpenVPN variant).

2) Similar deal, only phone. Phones get lost/stolen more often. I don't want my sh*t to be compromised, not that there's much to be compromised, but still. I have a Samsung Galaxy S3 Mini (I8190N). It's been rooted (Android version 4.1.2, I assume I can't just upgrade to 4.3 with a rooted and modded OS) and the Backlight Notification Mod has been installed on it. I guess what I'm looking for is keeping my sh*t safe. And also trackable remotely in case of theft (discreetly). I've never done this before, so... I don't even know where to start. Also, data encryption? Like, the memory card and on-board storage.

3) Bit different: what's the best way to store earphones? Mine tend to break too often, but the way I do it ensures no untangling and mess. But it also tends to bend the wire a lot and cause it to break. Any tips?

We will be the arms that lift you up oqKntbC.gifWe will be the hand that strike you down

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For securing your laptop, I'd go full disk encryption. I personally still use TrueCrypt but there are a fair few free alternatives out there. Pair it with a BIOS password and that should keep your laptop fairly safe. You could also epoxy over the CMOS jumper so people can't reset the BIOS, but that's a bit extreme and rather buggers you if you forget the password or ever need to reset the BIOS.

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@Edmachine

The guy in the video was very lucky that the thief didn't format his drive. Anyway what you don't want to do in a case like that is using full disk encryption, then you force the thief to format the drive otherwise they won't get in. The best way is to encrypt only your important files, like documents, pictures, and videos. Up until a few months ago I would have recommended TrueCrypt, but the developers have abandonded the project and the license doesn't permit forks. If you decide to use TrueCrypt I would create a hidden partition and place some dummy files to prevent thief from getting suspicious. Alternatively you could use Bitlocker or password protected archives. It is also important to use a password manager in your internet browser, otherwise an attacker might be able to enter your accounts.

 

You can install any program of your choice to control the pc remotely, I have only experience with SSH, so I wouldn't know whether the user on the physical machine can see that you log in using VNC or a similar program. Anyway use the program of your choice, but don't forget the most important, you need to get the new ip to actually use these programs. Here is were the dynamic dns comes in, use a site like FreeDNS to get a (sub)domain, and use a program like this http://www.techknowpro.com/freedns/ to connect to the internet to update the local ip. If you connect to your (sub)domain you will have access to the computer.

 

@sivispacem

That's a great way to prevent a thief from stealing your files, but not such a great way to retrieve the laptop.

Edited by Bad.boy!
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You could always get Lojack for Laptops. Subscription is £40 a year but the persistence module is written to the BIOS so it can be tracked even after a full disk wipe. If you were to do that I'd advise against a BIOS password as it uses HTTP to "phone home" and you probably won't have network connectivity in the BIOS boot loader.

Untitled-1.jpg
AMD Ryzen 5900X (4.65GHz All-Core PBO2) | Gigabye X570S Pro | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3600MHz CL16

EK-Quantum Reflection D5 | XSPC D5 PWM | TechN/Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Sabrant Rocket Plus 1TB
Sabrant Rocket 2TB | Samsung 970 Evo 1TB | 2x ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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Ai®a©ob®a

When you are running Live Steam with your PS4 onto Twitch and you have it set to where your broadcast is recording do you need to have your channel up on your PC while playing or will it record as long as the broadcast is live?

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No sound on my laptop.

 

One moment it's working fine, the next I have no idea what's happened, but there is no sound whatsoever, the only way it fixes itself seems to be by restarting it. I've tried 'troubleshooting' tests, and updating drivers, but neither have worked. Any suggestions ?

 

I have the same problem.. I'm on a Toshiba Satellite L755-S5153. It is getting quite old so I'm not really sure what to do :(

VWSTp.png

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GoldenBlade

I'm having some difficulty with my phone's battery. I'm using an Android LG-L38C. My phone charges really really slow. It's just started doing this a few days ago. When the phone is in use while charging, the battery percentage decreases. When not in use while charging, it sometimes increases and sometimes doesn't. When it does increase, it does so very slow. I've tried turning everything off, and even putting the phone in airplane mode. When I try to charge my phone while it's off, it turns itself back on to charge most of the time. When I finally do get it to charge while off, it takes a really long time.

 

With all that being said, what could the problem be?

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Ai®a©ob®a

Recently i have acquired the full series of a TV Show from Season One to Season 13 though a download (Yes by legal means no piracy was involved) and the files are in MP4 and AVI files.

 

I was able to watch videos from my memory stick on my PS3 but i don't remember what video files they used.

 

My question is, If i would to put those files onto a memory stick and plug it into my PS4 will my PS4 read it or would i need to convert the files into something else?

 

*Could you please quote me if you answer, My luck i'll forget i even posted here and will forget to look back to see if it was answered*

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Is a laptop with these specs good for games?

 

CPU: AMD Quad-Core A8-4500M Accelerated Processor

CPU Speed: 1.9GHz

CPU Cache: 4MB

 

System Memory: 4GB

Memory Type: DDR3 (1600 MHz)

Max. System Memory: 8GB

 

Graphics Chipset: Integrated AMD Radeon HD 7640G Graphics

So, a month ago, I posted this, but now I forgot what was the laptop with these specs. Does someone what's the laptop with these specs?

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GoldenBlade

 

 

Is a laptop with these specs good for games?

 

CPU: AMD Quad-Core A8-4500M Accelerated Processor

CPU Speed: 1.9GHz

CPU Cache: 4MB

 

System Memory: 4GB

Memory Type: DDR3 (1600 MHz)

Max. System Memory: 8GB

 

Graphics Chipset: Integrated AMD Radeon HD 7640G Graphics

So, a month ago, I posted this, but now I forgot what was the laptop with these specs. Does someone what's the laptop with these specs?Was it a Samsung Series 3 15.6" Notebook? The specs for it match what you had put. Edited by GoldenBlade
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Was it a Samsung Series 3 15.6" Notebook? The specs for it match what you had put.

Nope, that one has other processor and graphics chipset. The only thing that I can remember it's that it was between 350€ and 400€.

Edited by Vanto
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Posted this in Gen chat's question topic. Figure I might as well post it here as well.

 

What could cause my CPU to randomly start running at 77°? Even though it's watercooled.
When I restarted the PC, it told me fan error, even though it didn't tell me which f*cking fan. They all seem to be working, really loudly.

DVf9mQs.png

Formerly known as The General

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Chances are that the water pump is failing.

74cXSsx.png

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How are pumps suppose to last? I've had it for maybe 1 and half to 2 years. Though the PC has been on pretty much the majority of the time. Though in sleep mode and when I'm using it.

 

The water cooler is a Corsair H100.

Edited by Moth

DVf9mQs.png

Formerly known as The General

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Have you ever cleaned the fans or flushed the loop?

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Have you ever cleaned the fans or flushed the loop?

Yes and no. How do I do that?

DVf9mQs.png

Formerly known as The General

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Unscrew the corners and take the fan off and use compressed air to blow off the fins and rads from the opposite side. They can get pretty heavy with dust after a year and a half or two years and make the fans almost useless.

 

That might be most of your problem if you get a fan error.

 

If your loop doesn't look like it has anything like mildew or muck in it, it should be good. But if you can see stuff in it, it would do it good to flush and clean it. There are tons of videos on youtube to reference to see the way you would feel more comfortable doing it. I tried looking for a video of how to flush specifically a Corsair H100, but I couldn't find one...

 

Hope that helps though.

Edited by FRA1Z3R
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On AiO water coolers water pump is often first to fail, that's definitely an Achilles' heel of these coolers. Can you even hear it working?

Edited by yojo2

74cXSsx.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, hoping for some help here with something that's starting to bug me a lot.

 

Trying to sort all my music out, but this is been hindered by an error that I keep getting, telling me that the folder or file can't be moved because it's open in some other program. At first I figured it may be due to me sharing the folder on my network, so I stopped that, but the problem is continuing. I've closed all my programs, yet still keep geting hit by the error. Thing is, in one instance, it came up with the error, so I backed out of the folder, then went back in and tried again, this time able to actually move it.

 

It doesn't happen with every single folder, but 90% of the time I'm getting the error.

 

Running on Windows 8.1 if that helps?

 

EDIT:

 

OK, so it seems that THIS is what the problem is. I'm new to 8.1 though and have no idea where the Windws Component etc is...

 

EDIT 2:

 

Sorted the problem now, sorry. This provided better details, for those interested...

Edited by KilnerLUFC
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Is a laptop with these specs good for games?

 

CPU: AMD Quad-Core A8-4500M Accelerated Processor

CPU Speed: 1.9GHz

CPU Cache: 4MB

 

System Memory: 4GB

Memory Type: DDR3 (1600 MHz)

Max. System Memory: 8GB

 

Graphics Chipset: Integrated AMD Radeon HD 7640G Graphics

So, a month ago, I posted this, but now I forgot what was the laptop with these specs. Does someone what's the laptop with these specs?

 

 

Not sure on the model of the laptop, but I don't think you can play any recent games with this. It all depends on the GPU. Passmark gives the AMD Radeon HD 7640G GPU a benchmark number of 611, which is terrible. To give you a comparison, the highest benchmark for a GPU (GeForce GTX 780 Ti) is 9,010.

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For the past few months, while I save my money, I've been researching parts for a build. Seeing as though I was advised to go with AMD, I researched them heavily and in doing so I've become somewhat ignorant of Intel's CPU range. Today I thought I'd see what kind of setup I could get if I went with Intel instead and found that I ended up far more confused. So, my question is this, what's the difference between, say, a 4670k and a 4590, or any other variant? Redditors have informed me that an i5 would be perfectly suited for gaming so they're the ones I've looked into, but the numbers just confuse me. So is there one I should avoid? One I should seek out? Does the "k" make any kind of difference?

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

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Basically the difference here is that k series processors and desktop boards are designed for overclocking and the others are not. If you overclock your processor it is suggested that you do not use the default fan that comes with it.

 

So based on this logic is that the 4960k can be over clocked and the 4590 can't. If you don't plan to overclock I'd go for the latter.

 

Use http://www.cpuboss.com to compare processors, it's easy to use. Or you could go to ark.intel.com to compare them yourself.

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That site is excellent and incredibly useful to me. Thanks, man.

 

I have no interest in overclocking so I'll avoid any "k" versions then. I just read a quick guide all about Intel CPU's and that's cleared up a few things for me so at least I now know what I'm looking for.

 

Whilst I'm here, I was looking for a really nice looking mobo the other day (my PC is going to be in my living room in plain sight so I want something that looks good inside and out) and I stumbled upon the Asus Sabretooth Z97; a spectacular looking piece of hardware. Unfortunately, it's way out of my price range. Does anyone know of a great looking mobo that's under £100? My theme is red and black so I thought of the MSI Z87-G45. It's a looker and seems to deliver a lot of bang for my buck. Is it any good?

 

Here's a link for the MSI board: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-z87-g45-gaming-intel-z87-s1150-ddr3-msata-sata-iii-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-d-sub-dvi-d-hdmi-atx?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyMafBRCU7OCRyc2vitsBEiQAKV4H9EtGhLMRooJTixqUwt3UrVN_GPis5-zwRtiGotbn5dwaAouh8P8HAQ

Edited by GreatGig

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Whilst I'm here, I was looking for a really nice looking mobo the other day (my PC is going to be in my living room in plain sight so I want something that looks good inside and out) and I stumbled upon the Asus Sabretooth Z97; a spectacular looking piece of hardware. Unfortunately, it's way out of my price range. Does anyone know of a great looking mobo that's under £100? My theme is red and black so I thought of the MSI Z87-G45. It's a looker and seems to deliver a lot of bang for my buck. Is it any good?

 

Here's a link for the MSI board: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-z87-g45-gaming-intel-z87-s1150-ddr3-msata-sata-iii-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-d-sub-dvi-d-hdmi-atx?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyMafBRCU7OCRyc2vitsBEiQAKV4H9EtGhLMRooJTixqUwt3UrVN_GPis5-zwRtiGotbn5dwaAouh8P8HAQ

 

I would say so. If you ever want to upgrade memory, you have more than enough space to do so. It supports 64GB, and most of the current "mainstream" Memory speeds. However, I'm not sure how much the DDR4 ready mobo's will cost on release. If DDR4 RAM doesn't interest you, just buy the MSI board :^:

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