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Random Technology Questions


Tornado Rex
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1 hour ago, Dryspace said:

Did it appear, and remain the same ever since? Or does it come and go? If your situation is anything like mine, it could be a (ridiculous) image processing artifact.

 

One day several weeks ago I noticed that there appeared to be a "spot" on the screen of my OLED55B7A, in an area of the screen that was displaying an Excel spreadsheet. It was about thumb-size, very faint, and was almost invisible unless viewed peripherally. I questioned whether it was an optical illusion, or some new trick my visual system was playing, until I repeatedly verified that the spot disappeared the moment I scrolled the spreadsheet. Afterward it would gradually reappear over the course of several seconds. But as I said, a very faint, fuzzy, "smudge".

That spot comes and go, which it is a headache to me.

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I bought a new microSD card for my phone. 

I'm trying to transfer all the photos etc from the old 64GB to the 128GB. 

 

Basically I'm doing it by having 64GB inserted in the phone and connected to my PC. Then SD in the SD slot on the PC. Then using Copy paste.

 

Problem is that despite copy pasting every folder 2-3 at a time. Approximately 20GB didn't copy over. Now I have to do it again. Took over 4 hours.

 

Is there a better way to do this? Obviously windows 10 can't handle this. Any good software than can handle it? Paid is fine if there's nothing free.

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Take SD card out of the phone and transfer files to PC.   Insert new SD card in PC and copy files.  If you have a high speed SD card and a reader it will take about 20-30 minutes. 

Edited by Guest
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Can someone please tell me why my video graphics are doing such a sh*tty job at not glitching. The problem is persistent in both video games, interactive maps (like Google Maps) and most video players (not Youtube however). Sometimes, individual sections of my Chrome browser (tabs etc.) kinda glitch in a way that it makes the text look italic.

 

Please help. I want to play Minecraft again in peace.

 

I am using Windows 10 32-bit.

 

BB4tN5T.png

 

Spoiler

sp5s34H.pngpw0Lqyf.png

 

 

 

 

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Looks like artifacts to me bro. Every time any of my PCs have ever started doing that I lost the card not too long after.

.

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20 hours ago, paperbagdude said:

...Sometimes, individual sections of my Chrome browser (tabs etc.) kinda glitch in a way that it makes the text look italic.

Can you post a screenshot of this text phenomenon? I think it might be even more helpful than the graphical examples.

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12 hours ago, Presidential said:

Looks like artifacts to me bro. Every time any of my PCs have ever started doing that I lost the card not too long after.

.

I have a laptop, so is it basically about to die?

16 minutes ago, Dryspace said:

Can you post a screenshot of this text phenomenon? I think it might be even more helpful than the graphical examples.

Funny, cause I was able to capture it while replying to you.

 

Sometimes, especially in Chrome tabs, the italicization of the text looks authentic, but in this example, it looks very glitched.

6qJOwjG.png

 

Aside from the problems I mentioned earlier, I also have written text that sometimes blur and alongside with pictures etc., move a little or kind of shake.

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6 hours ago, paperbagdude said:

I have a laptop, so is it basically about to die?

I wish I could give you a definite answer. I've never had a GPU die on me, but from what I understand, your screenshots don't look like the kind of corruption that occurs when a GPU overheats or starts to die, and as for the text--which looks like it's offset by a single pixel--that seems like an odd GPU anomaly.
 

I would make sure your temperatures are okay, but I don't really know-- @Presidential could be right.

Edited by Dryspace
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4 hours ago, DEALUX said:

Do I really need a CRT lol?

I had an FW900 from ~2005 to late 2014 when it died. I bought it used with four other FW900s which I sold off. When it died, I was forced to downgrade to a 22" flat-screen 4:3 CRT (FP1350X) because I couldn't find a replacement FW900 at a reasonable price (Shipping had skyrocketed from what it was in ~2005). The image remained pristine until the day it died. The only thing that degraded over time was the warm-up period, which became longer.

 

As one who has gamed on CRT, LCD, DLP, and OLED, I can state that CRT is, to this day, an objectively superior display technology in every measureable parameter except for maximum resolution, maximum screen size, and geometry/linearity. As for the last one, it's really technical, as non-linearity isn't noticeable for gaming, and as for the first--Yeah, it's possible to game at 4K now, but the FW900 did 2304 x 1440 @ 80Hz in 1999, and twenty years later most gamers are still at 1920 x 1080.

 

A CRT is a lot bigger, a lot heavier, and generates quite a bit more heat than a modern LCD. But those aspects have nothing whatever to do with the reason one buys the display in the first place: to display things. If I'm looking for a really good off-road vehicle, I don't buy a scooter because it's smaller, lighter, and uses less gas. That's irrational. Sure, all of those things are true, but I'm also getting something that's significantly worse at the very thing I bought it for in the first place.

Edited by Dryspace
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  • 3 weeks later...

My home button on my iphone is completely gone and my lock button is bad too. Sometimes i need to press repeatedly for it to finally work. Probably will die soon as well. Now i can use assistive touch for both buttons when im inside the phone but when its locked im completely at the mercy of my lock button. I will have it looked at but in the meantime do i have any touch gesture options or something like assistive touch in lock screen or anything at all that i can use instead of the lock button when the screen is locked?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

 

I've bought a new Grundig UHD 49" LCD monitor and have a minor problem:

 

Sometimes when I watch a movie (from the HDD) and switch to full-screen (with GOM player) the monitor just switch off after some seconds. No auto-shutdown active at all.

 

The signal comes from my pc, via HDMI and it is not the player or the pc that shut down cause the sound goes on and the computer continues normal working. I have never noticed any sort of signal interrupt in any way.

 

I can put the monitor back on by switching it on and off one time and then I have the normal full-screen back with the video like before it switched itself off.

 

So the signal is there and not interrupted in any way. I focused on the monitor itself but I don't understand why it switched itself off. It ONLY happens in full-screen mode with the GOM player.

 

Watching the same movie in windowed mode I can pass the same scene without monitor malfunction. If the signal is corrupted I would expect the monitor to give a message

 

but not to just go into standby mode. Any ideas? I am really thinking of contacting my salesman.

Edited by NaidRaida
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lol why is PC's not starting if a keyboard is not detected still a thing? My USB keyboard fails to turn on sometimes for some reason (new update?) and this gets the booting process stuck at the BIOS screen (no error).

$GAIN | The Audiophile Thread

 

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On 10/22/2019 at 2:47 PM, DEALUX said:

lol why is PC's not starting if a keyboard is not detected still a thing? My USB keyboard fails to turn on sometimes for some reason (new update?) and this gets the booting process stuck at the BIOS screen (no error).

Hard to believe that a disconnected keyboard corrupts the boot process. Anyway, I would take a look into the bios if there is any keyboard option.

 

It's probably a wireless USB keyboard, so at least change the batteries. Maybe the USB port on your pc is broken, that will surely produce problems. Try to use a different port or use a cable keyboard.

 

An update for a keyboard sounds silly to me, never heard about such thing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So, my 12yr-old PC broke, and since then I saved up some money and looked for a new one, and found this one for "cheap":

 

Intel Cire I5 3.40 GHz

Nvidia GeForce GTX 1650 4 GB

8 GB Ram

Chipset Intel Express motherboard

 

I want to know if it is any good, as in if it could run modern games at a decent FPS at least. I'm coming from a Core2Duo, so I have no reference with modern PCs

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Looks good depending on i5 generation.  Games such as Just Cause 3, Rust may struggle.  If you like those games I suggest getting a i7 4th generation minimum.  

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On 11/22/2019 at 1:32 PM, Baserape said:

Looks good depending on i5 generation.  Games such as Just Cause 3, Rust may struggle.  If you like those games I suggest getting a i7 4th generation minimum.  

It's a 2nd gen I5, which I've heard some complaints from, otherwise it seems like a good PC. Not sure if I should wait some more and get something better or just buy the damn thing and maybe upgrade it later. I mean, i'm comming from a Core2Duo (and a notebook that lags when running Minecraft), anything that has to offer will probably feel like light speed to me anyways.

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If you can wait, wait and get a i7.   Saying that you will notice a big difference in performance from the core2duo.   I have no experience with a i5 2nd gen but looking around it meets most games min spec.  

 

If the price is right, get it. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 11/24/2019 at 7:42 AM, DOUGL4S1 said:

anything that has to offer will probably feel like light speed to me anyways.

One thing that I think is worth taking into consideration: You said that you want to play modern (AAA) games. As of now, 6+ year old processors such as my 4770K are capable of running any AAA game at max settings at a minimum of 60 fps, except for maybe something like AC: Odyssey, due to (ridiculous) VMProtect. Lesser processors are no doubt still able to run these games at playable framerates.

 

(Note that I refer only to the basal framerate achievable by a CPU, assuming that the resolution is not too high and the GPU not too weak.)

 

But my point is that we are on the cusp of a paradigm shift: What has held true since 2013 could very likely not hold true after the next generation of consoles is released. Assuming new consoles release at the end of 2020, it is entirely possible that within just 2 years, processors like mine will suddenly no longer be able to maintain 60 fps, and many lesser processors may not run new games at a playable framerate (~25 fps), or even launch them at all.

Another possible issue is that processors which will, by that time, be 8+ or 10+ years old may theoretically be capable of running a game at playable framerates, but be insupported due to feature incompatibility. Someone with more knowledge would have to give an opinion on that though, as I'm not sure if processors have been changing that much lately.

 

Unless it is feasible for you to build/buy a completely new PC within ~2-3 years, I would consider going with at least a 4770K, and even better a newer CPU with at least 12 logical threads.

Edited by Dryspace
Composition error fixed
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21 hours ago, Baserape said:

Looking forward to all of our passwards being exposed when quantum computing hits retail.  (20 years?)

will we still use passwords in 20 years?  i thought by then we would already be receiving emails directly to our brains

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Sorry if this is wrong section, it's been a while since I wandered around the forums.

 

Are monetized link shorteners allowed to be in YouTube video description? I've seen people use them to earn money, and yet their channels are still there for quite some time. On the other hand, I heard certain channels used to get terminated in the past due to using monetized links (mostly few years ago). What do you think about it? Has anyone had experience with such a thing?

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  • 2 weeks later...
Self-Destructive Man

There's something weird happening on my PC. When I turn it on, it will freeze or crash after a few minutes or hours, however, if I turn it on and restart right after, everything will be normal and it will stay on for as long I keep it on. I've just changed my power supply, ram memory and HD. Does anyone have an idea of what might be happening?

Edited by Self-Destructive Man

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                                                                                                 Rated PS for "Pretty Stupid"

 

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2 hours ago, Kumquat lemon said:

Which OS is working on your game pc?

The best answer: Windows password reset disk (If you are using Windows ...)

The best software:Ophcrack,Ntpassword and John the Ripper.

You won't have much luck with John or OphCrack unless you've got a password hash...which you won't be able to get if you can't log in unless you're going to try and dump NTDS.dit and the System security hive by booting from another OS...

Untitled-1.jpg
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Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
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15 hours ago, sivispacem said:

You won't have much luck with John or OphCrack unless you've got a password hash...which you won't be able to get if you can't log in unless you're going to try and dump NTDS.dit and the System security hive by booting from another OS...

How about Ntpassword,it has enough power to crack a locked computer.BTW,OphCrack may not work so well on Windows 10 pc.

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Ntpassword doesn't support Windows 10. In fact, since one of the various creator updates, it's become exceptionally hard to statically obtain Windows password hashes unless, as I noted above, you steal the whole NTDS.dit and SYSTEM security hive.

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I'm having some really weird issues with my system at the moment. From cold boot I'm not getting any display output- GPU is powering on and pulling the RGB config from the driver app, but nothing on screen. Unplugging it and leaving it for a few minutes it will usually work fine. Not seeing any artefacts that would suggest a dying GPU, no issues under heavy load...nothing else that would explain it. I've only been noticing it since I fitted a PCI-E 1x WiFi adapter but not sure how that would be relevant.

 

Think it's unlikely to be the monitor though I need to dig out another cable to test with the laptop, and I'm going to try and borrow a colleague's GPU. But that aside I'm stumped- could be motherboard, GPU itself or even maybe the PSU (which is by far the oldest component).

 

Anyone got any bright ideas?

Untitled-1.jpg
P R O J E C T | S A N D W A S P

Intel 6900K @4.3GHz (1.285v) | MSI X99A MPOWER | 32GB G-Skill Trident Z RGB 3000MHz CL14

Custom Distro Plate | XSPC D5 PWM | Watercool Heatkiller Blocks | HardwareLabs GTS & GTX 360 Radiators
Corsair AX750 | Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL | EVGA GeForce RTX2080 XC @2055MHz | Samsung 970 Evo 
2x Samsung 860 Evo 500GB | Gigabyte WBAX200 | ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q | Q Acoustics 2010i | Sabaj A4

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You say the PCI-E WiFi adapter seems unrelated, but maybe not because they're probably sharing a PCI-E lane (although I'm not sure how that works with older Intel CPUs/mobos). Have you tried removing it just to eliminate that suspicion?

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