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Random Technology Questions


Tornado Rex
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6 hours ago, HaRdSTyLe_83 said:

 

you are projecting. if i had case like yours it would be hidden aswell, i wont argue with that.

My Pc's interior can be gazed all the time, during all the hours i spend in front of the computer.

Do you really believe I'm projecting? I'm only projecting my sincere opinion, and I don't hesitate because I'm not talking about an aspect of one's person that he is powerless to change--that would be impolite. It is merely the same thing I have to remind myself about. I have been tempted to spend a lot of time and effort on the interior of a PC, but I I remind myself that the effort isn't justified, since the interior components of a PC are tools that are only used for a short time and then replaced. I don't know if this viewpoint offends you, but I haven't said anything rude or personal. If you disagree, you are free to dismiss my viewpoint with a laugh.

 

My point was only about interiors--an area that one has to actually go out of his way to make visible, usually for the very reason that he spent a lot of effort on the inside. The outside of a case is a different story. A case can last for a long time, and I think that interesting and tasteful case designs can complement an area just as much as any other object or artwork.

 

I can say this, though, based on the picture you posted: Our philosophies on gaming environments do not seem to coincide! I not could endure the light of that case bathing all of those highly reflective surfaces. I like the aesthetic--just not for a movie/gaming environment! My case is tucked behind an obstruction, along with my router, to avoid the (ridiculously brilliant, imo) glare from the various LEDs.

 

I have gone to considerable lengths to minimize both the emission and reflectance of light in my gaming environment. This is for the same reason that cinemas do so: to eliminate off-screen distractions and increase immersion. I first really began to care about this when I started gaming on a 110" projection screen, which throws a great deal of light everywhere. But yeah--I mean no offense when I say that I would have to throw a black towel over that case if the lights couldn't be disabled. Believe it or not, since the side panels of my case are currently off, I have just such a towel on my case as we speak. :)

Edited by Dryspace
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  • 3 weeks later...
ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

I'm having kind of a weird issue with my internet.

 

For some reason lately my internet acts up and seems to go in and out intermetely to where it'll show me a "Can not connect to page" window but my internet is connected but if I try again on another tab its loads but here is the weird part.

 

If I turn on my VPN my internet works great as if there were no issues but soon as I turn it off I start getting those issues again.

 

Anybody know what might be causing this? and It couldn't be "Found" so I had to do a soft factory reset of my computer in order to get them back.... Could this be related to the issue? 

 

My laptop is hardwired via ethernet extension box that's plugged into my router

 

OBwmZyr.gif

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Had a similar issue a few updates back on Windows 10. It seemed to be a network adapter thing. It would basically randomly shut off or something (driver crash?) and would stop working until I restarted my PC.

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On 12/15/2018 at 6:02 PM, AiraCobra said:

I'm having kind of a weird issue with my internet.

 

For some reason lately my internet acts up and seems to go in and out intermetely to where it'll show me a "Can not connect to page" window but my internet is connected but if I try again on another tab its loads but here is the weird part.

 

If I turn on my VPN my internet works great as if there were no issues but soon as I turn it off I start getting those issues again.

 

Anybody know what might be causing this? and It couldn't be "Found" so I had to do a soft factory reset of my computer in order to get them back.... Could this be related to the issue? 

 

My laptop is hardwired via ethernet extension box that's plugged into my router

 

 

OBwmZyr.gif

 

I know this is a late reply but is it related to your "kill switch" in the VPN you are using? If it's set to "on" it might be that the only positive connection will be through the VPN. 

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Oddities about with the latest build of Google Chrome x64 (71.0.3578.98)

Every 10 seconds the browser was freezing for 3-5 seconds, no issues in any other applications and no evidence of processor or RAM usage spikes.

 

I've swapped to the equivalent build of Chromium and don't seem to have the same issue. Weird.

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  • 2 weeks later...
ṼirulenⱦEqừinox
On 1/1/2019 at 5:35 PM, Mister Pinkerton said:

I know this is a late reply but is it related to your "kill switch" in the VPN you are using? If it's set to "on" it might be that the only positive connection will be through the VPN. 

Would that cause issues with other devices on my router? For some reason my Ring Doorbell will only record 2 seconds of video instead of the usual 30 seconds and I've deemed it to be an issue with the internet and most likely an issue with the Router itself but would like to know before I trade in the router for a new one only to come and find out the Kill Switch can affect all devices.

 

 

OBwmZyr.gif
Edited by AiraCobra
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On 1/16/2019 at 1:33 AM, AiraCobra said:

Would that cause issues with other devices on my router? For some reason my Ring Doorbell will only record 2 seconds of video instead of the usual 30 seconds and I've deemed it to be an issue with the internet and most likely an issue with the Router itself but would like to know before I trade in the router for a new one only to come and find out the Kill Switch can affect all devices.

 

 

I'm not sure, to be honest. I know, with a VPN with a kill-switch activated, you have to manually connect to the internet each time, otherwise, the host device won't connect to the internet automatically. For example, just to give you a scenario - if you turn off your laptop/PC at night your connection to the internet is gone. When you boot your PC up, instead of automatically connecting as it does with Windows, it will be overridden by the VPN/Kill-Switch. So, you'll usually go to Internet Settings in the tray on the bottom-right and by default, it may show as "Connected" but you have to disconnect and reconnect as the VPN is running.  

 

If it's not the kill-switch, I'm sure you can turn it off and see if it makes a difference. Have you tried port-forwarding for Ring Doorbell? To me it sounds like the port might be restricting the flow of data, seeing as it can record 2 seconds before cuts out. Sounds symptomatic of the ports but I'm not really an expert in that area, perhaps someone else can help with that? 

 

 

Edited by Mister Pinkerton
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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox
10 hours ago, Mister Pinkerton said:

I'm not sure, to be honest. I know, with a VPN with a kill-switch activated, you have to manually connect to the internet each time, otherwise, the host device won't connect to the internet automatically. For example, just to give you a scenario - if you turn off your laptop/PC at night your connection to the internet is gone. When you boot your PC up, instead of automatically connecting as it does with Windows, it will be overridden by the VPN/Kill-Switch. So, you'll usually go to Internet Settings in the tray on the bottom-right and by default, it may show as "Connected" but you have to disconnect and reconnect as the VPN is running.  

 

If it's not the kill-switch, I'm sure you can turn it off and see if it makes a difference. Have you tried port-forwarding for Ring Doorbell? To me it sounds like the port might be restricting the flow of data, seeing as it can record 2 seconds before cuts out. Sounds symptomatic of the ports but I'm not really an expert in that area, perhaps someone else can help with that? 

1

 

Good looking out, I never would have thought about that, I already have my router set to DMZ because I was getting a strict NAT and I couldn't get into matches or it would take forever to get a full lobby so I know my NAT is open but I'll try the port forwarding

 

OBwmZyr.gif

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

I feel like an idiot for asking this as I should know but I can't remember for the life of me, Do I set it up was an IPv4 or IPv6? after selecting which one can you tell me what need to go where?

 

f53c5382ae670a137f713eec00d11996.png

 

Like can you use the link you posted and then kind of fill it out as an example? Because it's only showing two TCP in but showing 4 out but only option for two and I don't know which ones go where

 

 

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox
5 hours ago, FearThoseWhoFearHim said:

ipv4-vs-ipv6.png

 

What is this?

 

 

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It's a breakdown of IP header structure. I don't know why he posted it because it's of absolutely no use to you.

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19 hours ago, FearThoseWhoFearHim said:

IPv4 or IPv6?

he pressed search in google option and posted you the first image, nothing to do with your question

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

 

So I finally got around to doing the Port Forwarding and only TWO of them worked the rest of them would give me this error, I could only do two powered port forwarding but none of the battery options worked

 

fecb5e25596d0da9ab0017820b8e6516.png

 

Or

 

be366fc43809d4fa564ec7b80c7a8573.png

 

What's the point of giving port forwarding information that doesn't even work?

 

Am I doing something wrong?

 

febc3ba1500c10c2dfe7e9df812374c6.png

 

 

Battery devices:
TCP in 32882 - 65533
TCP out 80, 443, 5223, 9998
UDP in 53, 67, 68, 123, 137, 15063 - 65439
UDP out 53, 67, 68, 123, 5353, 15063 - 64208

 

Powered devices:
UDP in 53, 67, 137 & 8610 - 61000
UDP out 53, 68, 123 & 5001 - 64854
TCP in 32768 - 61000
TCP out 80, 443, 5201, 9999, 15063

 

IOS:
TCP In 59720 - 59840
TCP out 80, 443, 5223, 15064
UDP in 68, 123, 49400 - 64951
UDP out 53, 123, 18306 - 63919

 

I found some other information on other websites but some of them are only posting one set of numbers

  1. TCP 80
TCP 443 TCP 5228 TCP 15064

 

Does this mean I use the same number for both start and end port? so like 80/80 - 443/443 ect?

 

 

 

 

 

OBwmZyr.gif

 

Edited by AiraCobra
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  • 1 month later...

What should one look out for when purchasing a new TV? I'm completely out of the loop and I'm sure TV's have really progressed since I last looked. Of course, I like to research these things myself but I'm sure there's someone here with some interesting insight.

 

To give you some context, I'm looking to buy a 4K TV on a budget - about €400 and minimum of 32" but preferably larger. Can I have the two at that price point? Not so much looking for recommendations (although welcome too), but more what to look out for when browsing TV's. 

 

Are there any superfluous gadgets or functions that are tacked-on that I need to avoid? I don't need a smart TV (I don't think) and will mostly be using it to watch Netflix and for Xbox One X/Gaming. 

Edited by Mister Pinkerton
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On 3/7/2019 at 2:16 AM, Mister Pinkerton said:

What should one look out for when purchasing a new TV?

I approve of your attitude toward "smart" televisions, lol. The question though is whether you will be able to find anything else, and if you do, whether it will otherwise meet your requirements. My understanding is that TVs are (often? always?) loaded with "smart" functionality now because the cost can be subsidized by the deals that are signed with content providers. This is a reason that a lot of the software can't be removed or even disabled by the owner, as the contracts require that the functionality be available.

 

The fact that you like to research these things suggests to me that you understand most of the relevant parameters. If you intend to game, then clearly response time input latency should be of primary importance. From my own experience, a true measurement of 30 ms or less is fine.

 

I'm not a fan of LCD at all**--my gaming has been on CRT, DLP, and OLED--so I can't help with nuances of LCD panel behavior regarding black level, off-axis viewing, etc. I don't know if this is standard, but I would expect it to accept a 120 Hz signal at 1080p.

 

As far as screen size goes, that depends on your intended viewing distance. With true 4K content, you're going to want to stay under a viewing ratio of ~2.5:1 in order to fully benefit from the resolution, and that's assuming good vision. So for a 32" display, you would want to be no farther than 6 feet (28" width * 2.5 = 69.8").

 

If you're interested in HDR, it's something you'll want to research, unless you've already done so. Despite what manufacturers may claim, I don't believe that most LCD displays in the lower price range are capable of an actual contrast ratio high enough to deliver HDR. Even those that can deliver high contrast ratios can only do so using backlight-based workarounds. That's not to say that there aren't LCD displays capable of acceptable or even impressive results, but I think one must do his homework and not just take advertised capabilities for granted--and possibly pay a good amount. But I'm only advising caution--my information could be out of date!

 

** For the record, so-called "LED" displays are just plain-old LCD. It's just as ridiculous as calling a V6 coupé an "electric car" because it contains a battery.

Edited by Dryspace
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Nice one, man, I appreciate the detailed response! That's given me plenty of things to consider. 

 

I actually don't mind the smart aspect of TV's. There was one in my Airbnb last year that had YouTube and Netflix on it, which was handy but like I said I'll have a console plugged in. Having said, that, now that I think of it. If XBL is down which is rarely is for me or I simply sell my console at least I can have access to those apps. But if smart comes as standard, that's fine, I suppose. It's not like it adds to the overall cost to a TV, I imagine. 

 

I'm in agreement with you on LCD. Not a fan and I remember years ago learning that they're more susceptible to "burn-in." OLED would be nice but that type of tech automatically puts me out of my budget. Definitely down the line, just not now. 

 

Currently, I'm quite close to my 32" at about 4ft (1.2m). And that's perfect. That's actually from the side of bed. But, expect to be moving some time this year. I have no idea of the space I'll be in. So, going bigger was always the plan. I've become accustomed to being close to my TV. Not sure how I'll handle it in a living-room situation again and it's across the room. 

 

HDR is another thing. I would appreciate that, if it is all it's hyped up to be. I mean every TV should be striving for HDR. It's kind of boggling that they market it as a kind of "optional extra." 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Mister Pinkerton said:

I actually don't mind the smart aspect of TV's.

My issue with "smart" TVs isn't the functionality that they provide now, it's that they seem to be the obvious precursor to the Telescreen: A large, wall-mounted display with built-in camera, microphone, and Web connection.

 

 

Quote

I'm in agreement with you on LCD. Not a fan and I remember years ago learning that they're more susceptible to "burn-in."

It's actually OLED that can be susceptible to image retention, but as with CRTs, it is largely dependent on how the display is used, and not something that automatically happens over time. As examples, I have a 2010 Samsung Vibrant that was used daily for ~6 years. I had thought that there was no retention whatsoever until I looked closely at a white screen and noticed a very faint retention of the menu bar and keyboard, which wouldn't be discerned without good eyesight. My OLED55B7A after 3500 hours has no image retention, though there is an issue with faint vertical banding at the lowest brightness levels. I would liken it to the two horizontal lines on a Trinitron monitor which were only intermittently noticed when your conscious decided to acknowledge them for whatever reason.

 

In both of the devices I mention, my usage was at the lowest brightness setting. If a person cranks brightness all the way up and has the same content displayed for extended periods time and again, he is asking for the retention issues that you do read about.

I'm not recommending OLED by the way. Until the technology matures--and I hope it does soon--I see it as something in which a person already knows whether he is interested or not.

 

 

Quote

HDR is another thing...

Regarding HDR, something to remember is that even if a display is capable of a really high dynamic range, its benefits cannot be fully perceived unless viewed in a theater-dark environment. The same thing applies to contrast ratio in general: Many people will not ever see a high contrast ratio or HDR because they do their viewing in a lighted environment. Part of it is the reduction in contrast from the light hitting the display itself, but it is further exacerbated by the overall light level constricting one's pupils, thereby making him unable to distinguish the lowest brightness ranges.

Edited by Dryspace
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For ~€400 you should be able to get a decent 4K IPS panel from a good manufacturer without you much issue. It's going to be pretty devoid of bells and whistles- it won't have top-end HDR and is unlikely to have things like Dolby Pro, but it should be a pretty good midrange product.

 

I'd stick my head above the parapet and say I prefer a good quality IPS out of the box to most of the Korean OEMs implementations of OLED, which are ridiculously oversaturated. Phillips and Panasonic do it brilliantly, but at enormous cost. It's a very personal thing though. QLED looks like sh*t IMO.

 

Something like the Samsung UE43NU7400 might meet your reqs. 43" 4K TV with HDR10+, currently down to £365 on UK Amazon instead of nearly £650...

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You may need to tinker with the settings to get the best input response time for your One X.

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On 3/8/2019 at 4:27 PM, sivispacem said:

For ~€400 you should be able to get a decent 4K IPS panel from a good manufacturer without you much issue. It's going to be pretty devoid of bells and whistles- it won't have top-end HDR and is unlikely to have things like Dolby Pro, but it should be a pretty good midrange product.

 

I'd stick my head above the parapet and say I prefer a good quality IPS out of the box to most of the Korean OEMs implementations of OLED, which are ridiculously oversaturated. Phillips and Panasonic do it brilliantly, but at enormous cost. It's a very personal thing though. QLED looks like sh*t IMO.

 

Something like the Samsung UE43NU7400 might meet your reqs. 43" 4K TV with HDR10+, currently down to £365 on UK Amazon instead of nearly £650...

 

Thanks, for that info and recommendation. That's very useful. . I was beginning to think I may need to invest a bit more. That Samsung pretty much meets all my needs. 

 

I hear what you are saying OLED looking ridiculously over-saturated. The photographer/image processor in me makes me sensitive to things like that - when it's just going for cheap wow that true-colour/representation. I'm also a bit conscious of audio or visual doing some thing over-the-top because when that becomes your normal, everything not over-saturated or with extra bass will just seem bland.

 

@Dryspace Very interesting. I've so much I don't have a f*cking clue about! :D

 

@DEALUX When I pick it up. I'll definitely toy around. Been anxiously waiting for a TV/Console double upgrade. When I get my own place.. a but more permanent,. I'll look at getting a PC mostly for video-editing but for gaming too. 

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

.

was having some issues with my PS4 earlier so I was messing with my internet and I noticed with my Winfield connected I was only getting 30mbps/70mbps and a NAT Type of2 (Moderate) while on LANs I was getting 68mbps/70mbps with a NAT Type 3 (Strict)

 

why is this? and can I change it so it’s open or at least moderate?

 

i know about port forwarding which I already have most of them already for another device and DMZ already have the DMZ set up as my WiFi used to be tighter than a gnats asshole I couldn’t even get into a room with other players until I turned on/off the DMZ whichever it is.

Edited by AiraCobra
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  • 4 weeks later...

Are 8 TB HDDs worth it or are the failure rates too high? Or should I just get a 2 TB SSD for a similar price and just not install that many games? My 2 TB HDD is filling up.

$GAIN | The Audiophile Thread

 

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Why not just clear it out?

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Backblaze logged the reliability of a few high capacity model drives in Q3 of 2018 which I stumbled upon whilst looking for new drives.

 

blog-Q3-2018-quarterly-chart.png

 

imo if you can rationalize getting a 2TB SSD over 8TB of mechanical drives do you really need the 8TB? I'd probably opt for the 2TB SSD and use that for the games you play the most, give the 2TB HDD a clear out and relegate the lesser played games/older titles that don't really get any benefit from being on an SSD to there then maybe grab another 2TB in the future if needed. I was running a super janky 2x500GB RAID0 setup which was nearing capacity so I ended up grabbing 2x2TB WD drives, one for games and the other for media, projects and so forth however after sorting through all the files I had stored on the 1TB RAID and moving them over to the new drives they're both barely at half capacity, probably closer to a quarter. Of course that all depends on use case, how many games you have, what files you store etc but I think we tend to overestimate how much space we need and also how much sh*t we hoard on our drives.

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8 hours ago, DEALUX said:

Are 8 TB HDDs worth it or are the failure rates too high? Or should I just get a 2 TB SSD for a similar price and just not install that many games? My 2 TB HDD is filling up.

If this isn't applicable to your situation for some reason, perhaps it may be of use to someone else.

 

One should need only a 500 - 1000 GB SSD as an OS/Applications volume, complementing those with Files and Backup hard drives in the size with the lowest price/unit capacity. I suppose the only issue would be a lack of internal space, but in that case--or rather outside that case--one could use external drives.

 

I've been using the same 750 GB Samsung SSD for just over 5 years now and have never wanted for space, and that is even after setting aside an extra 10% for over-provisioning, leaving a 628 GB volume. I have had tens and tens of games and demos installed simultaneously. At this moment I have 48+ games installed, not counting sundry DOS games, and 51+ demos, with the largest install size being 71 GB. I don't know if it's strictly necessary, but I take care to uninstall games before the SSD gets close to filling up.

 

In my region, the most cost-effective HDDs are the 3 or 4 TB drives. I use only WD because they've been good to me, and these are usually $20 - $27 USD per TB on sale. For online DRM-based games, after installation I simply copy the game folder to a backup drive so that it can be dragged back over to the SSD when I wish to reinstall. Though I can now get information from another time zone onto my SSD just as fast as I can get it from the hard drive inside my case, which is something that blows my mind, platters notwithstanding.

 

Regarding SSDs, I recommend the Samsung EVO series for gaming. Here, the 2.5" 860 EVO 500 GB has been as low as $68 USD shipped, and the 2.5" 1000 GB as low as $133 USD shipped. For M.2 PCIe, the 970 EVO 500 GB (3400/2300 R/W) has been as low $113 USD shipped, and the 970 EVO 1000 GB (3400/2500 R/W) as low as $220 USD shipped.

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With modern games you can fill up a 2 TB drive really fast. I don't really ever uninstall games.

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4 hours ago, DEALUX said:

With modern games you can fill up a 2 TB drive really fast. I don't really ever uninstall games.

Well, you originally asked, "Or should I...just not install that many games? Clearly you can't both not install that many games and never uninstall games, unless you plan to play the same suite of games for the rest of your life.

 

Like I said, I suggest just getting cheap, reliable 3 or 4 GB Western Digital hard drives and then copying your installation folders over when you need to free up space. I always back up my save files--if you do that, it's a simple matter to just drag a game folder back over to the SSD and also grab your save files if they go in a different folder.

 

All in all, it's basically the same thing as never uninstalling games....it only takes a brief amount of time to get a game running if you decide you want to play it on the spur of the moment.

Edited by Dryspace
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14 hours ago, DEALUX said:

With modern games you can fill up a 2 TB drive really fast. I don't really ever uninstall games.

 

if you can fill it really fast, you can also delete a game and install a new one even faster. most games are 60GB-80 GB ? with the internet speeds this days i dont worry that much about disk space, i can download that in the time it takes me to go out for a coffee

 

Edited by HaRdSTyLe_83
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