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Random Technology Questions


Tornado Rex
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  • yoječ

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So a 1650 Super is "recommended spec". That's for 1080p high with no RT, but for what FPS nobody really knows. You're basically between minimum and recommended so I'd probably try Medium to start and

You say the PCI-E WiFi adapter seems unrelated, but maybe not because they're probably sharing a PCI-E lane (although I'm not sure how that works with older Intel CPUs/mobos). Have you tried removing

I just built a new PC, and needed a new windows activation key.  I bought one on G2A, a site I've used tonnes of times and never had a single issue, entered the code into windows and even tried o

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3 hours ago, Dealux said:

Anyone else had their network adapters die on them for no f*cking reason and begin working again upon PC restart? This is the second time it happens.

 

"No internet connection". No f*cking sh*t. The router is working just fine. What is Win10 up to?

That happened all the time for me with a USB one I had. Every Windows 10 update that came would break it. So I just went to the website and installed the Netgear control app and haven't had a problem with it since. Back on 7 and XP I never once had a problem using USB adapters though. 

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So, this is irritating.

 

kH8B0UL.png

 

As you can see, the tracks have been numbered correctly, but iTunes is refusing to actually display them numerically. I don't know what criteria it's picking honestly, and finding a solution online has been difficult because people have been reporting it as far back as iTunes 10. The fixes that are being shared are well out of date by now, and I've tried everything I can think of. I've edited the album artist data, I've removed the track numbers entirely and I've even removed the album altogether hoping iTunes will re-evaluate it's life and work properly.

 

Anybody got any more ideas? I've got the feeling it's been tagged incorrectly somewhere but I can't seem to find where.

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You don't have something set to shuffle somewhere do you? 

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Nothing's set to shuffle, no, never use it.

 

Yes, they are downloaded files, but this is the first time I've ever had files behave like that. Very odd.

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I've even tried editing the metadata, and re-importing it. Even that didn't work. I've just gotten rid of it. Thanks for your suggestions all the same!

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

How can I fix this?

 

bbaffd9361aa333be13524c05b65445b.png

 

Those links are suppose to be at the top of the page as graphics and the rest of the screen is just white...

 

It's only happening on Chrome not on Fixfox or Edge so I know it's not the site itself, I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling and clearing everything via setting using the clear cookies, browsing data ect.

 

___________________

 

Another issue I am having is whenever I try and transfer a large file or more then three files at once from my computer to my 1TB or 4TB External Hard Drive it will suddenly disconnect and then reconnect making it so I can't transfer a large file that takes more than 5 minutes to transfer

Edited by AiraCobra
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12 hours ago, AiraCobra said:

Those links are suppose to be at the top of the page as graphics and the rest of the screen is just white...

 

It's only happening on Chrome not on Fixfox or Edge so I know it's not the site itself, I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling and clearing everything via setting using the clear cookies, browsing data ect.

The stylesheet doesn't seem to be loading properly, maybe something's blocking it (adblock, etc.)

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox
On 7/1/2018 at 6:17 AM, yoječ said:

The stylesheet doesn't seem to be loading properly, maybe something's blocking it (adblock, etc.)

You were right it was my IOrbit extension once I removed that it went back to normal

 

On 6/30/2018 at 5:47 PM, AiraCobra said:

Another issue I am having is whenever I try and transfer a large file or more then three files at once from my computer to my 1TB or 4TB External Hard Drive it will suddenly disconnect and then reconnect making it so I can't transfer a large file that takes more than 5 minutes to transfer

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

For some reason, Anti Aliasing won't show up in GTA IV even though I have forced it through Nvidia Control Panel. What's really weird is that it works fine with

EFLC.

 

**This issue has been fixed**

Edited by ClaudeIzABadAzz
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  • 2 weeks later...
ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

Does anybody have any experience with the Microsoft Wireless Monitor Adapter?

 

Sometimes when I play games on my laptop I like to plug in my 27inch monitor instead of playing on the smaller 17inch screen and noticed my laptop offers the ability to attach wireless monitors so I thought maybe buying a wireless monitor but they're all expensive and then I came across this.

 

The reviews are decent enough but just wanted to ask here as not all reviews on amazon are legit.

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I'm going to get myself a PS4 Pro for RDR II and Spider-Man and I was wondering if I should be better off buying a 4K TV or a 4K Monitor. Any suggestions?

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So I just tried giving Bluetooth a shot on my PC but it seems that no device wants to show up to connect unless I put it literally right up against my case. Any way to increase the range of the Bluetooth or fix the current range? I feel like the current range is broken. Headphones connect only when put up against the case, but it receives sound. As soon as I move a few inches away, it disconnects.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/13/2018 at 6:13 AM, ThroatSlasher2 said:

I'm going to get myself a PS4 Pro for RDR II and Spider-Man and I was wondering if I should be better off buying a 4K TV or a 4K Monitor. Any suggestions?

4K Monitor is a better deal for a few reasons. You will likely get a low latency panel and a higher quality one (TV panels tend to be of lesser quality at bigger sizes). Also, with IPS 4K you are pretty much guaranteed to get a 10-bit panel (1 billion colors) and one that likely covers the entire SRGB color gamut and most of the Adobe RGB one. However, I'm not sure if we currently have any 4K HDR monitors on the market right now if you want HDR.

 

This one's about as big as a TV:

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello. Recently I bought a USB stick for my car radio. It's a 64GB SanDisk, though the exact specs escape me at the moment. I've loaded it with songs and they all play fine but it's almost like the USB is loaded with "ghost" files too. The first 200 or so don't play and I get the message "not supported" when my radio reads it. If I stick it on shuffle or flick ahead, all my songs are there. I've since had a look at the USB on my laptop and I've removed any instances of files that might be causing this but I'm still getting the same issue. Somebody told me it might be that the USB's capacity is too large for my car radio to handle but I've never heard of that before. It's only a minor niggle because at the end of the day, it still works and it isn't like it isn't playing any songs. It's more of a mild annoyance, the kind that would gnaw at my brain bit by bit until I start losing sleep over the simplest of problems. Does anybody know what could be going on? Just for clarity, all the songs are in MP3 format, no M4A or FLAC files.

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3 hours ago, ∴ said:

Hello. Recently I bought a USB stick for my car radio. It's a 64GB SanDisk, though the exact specs escape me at the moment. I've loaded it with songs and they all play fine but it's almost like the USB is loaded with "ghost" files too. The first 200 or so don't play and I get the message "not supported" when my radio reads it. If I stick it on shuffle or flick ahead, all my songs are there. I've since had a look at the USB on my laptop and I've removed any instances of files that might be causing this but I'm still getting the same issue. Somebody told me it might be that the USB's capacity is too large for my car radio to handle but I've never heard of that before. It's only a minor niggle because at the end of the day, it still works and it isn't like it isn't playing any songs. It's more of a mild annoyance, the kind that would gnaw at my brain bit by bit until I start losing sleep over the simplest of problems. Does anybody know what could be going on? Just for clarity, all the songs are in MP3 format, no M4A or FLAC files.

My first thought is that the car radio is very picky with what exactly it supports and not. I don't know much about audio but are all files encoded the same way and so on? There might be some small niggle in the files that prevent them from playing.

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So far as I know. I first thought it might be something to do with bitrate, but I've had a healthy mixture of both whilst shuffling. My big tip-off about other files was that my car says there's 900 or so songs, which I know isn't right, it's closer to 600.

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I have roughly $2.5K to spare right now and I've been wanting for over a year to buy Stax electrostatic headphones (plus amp) since they are, according to users, some of the best in the world. The annoying thing is that I could buy other things with that money, like a GPU, monitor, or even build an entire new PC. It's really f*cking tempting to do the latter but I've also wanted for very long to have proper high end headphones that will probably blow me away like people say.

 

I still have my i7 4790K PC but I sold my 980 Ti last year in hopes of getting a 1080 Ti and now the Turing cards will be out soon. I'm kinda conflicted but still leaning towards the high end headphones. Am I stupid? Should I get a new PC or something? I don't really game that much anymore though.

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

Nvidia is already releasing a new 2080 graphics card soon after the 1080's release not so long ago.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but

 

Is there really a need to buy such a huge graphics card right now? Are there any games out there right now that this card is warranted?

 

I mean the 1080 just came out not too long ago and games are still catching up too that.

 

Right now it just seems to me that since there aren't many games right now that warrant such a graphics card such as this are people buying this card just to show off or is it really needed already and 1080 is in the dust?

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1 hour ago, AiraCobra said:

Is there really a need to buy such a huge graphics card right now? Are there any games out there right now that this card is warranted?

It depends on what you want.

 

For instance, I'm currently replaying DX: Mankind Divided at the moment. With 4x MSAA and everything turned up to Ultra, at 1440p my average frame rate in the benchmark is 32fps. 

 

That's a 2016 game.

 

I'm running a heavily overclocked 12 thread i7 and a GTX1080. If I could get a consistent 60+FPS in everything currently out, totally maxed including antialiasing, I'd be all over an RTX2080Ti. But we have yet to see.

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@AiraCobra

 

There are a great number of games that warrant a 2080 Ti, and better. It's the opposite: Games aren't catching up with the latest GPUs--the latest GPUs are trying to catch up with the latest games, resolutions, and refresh rates.

 

If a person is okay with sub-60 fps framerates and games at 1920x1080 or lower, he doesn't need the most powerful card currently available. If he wants a vsync-locked 60 fps minimum at 1920x1080 or even 2560x1600, he probably doesn't need the most powerful card currently available, but that's not a given considering the terrible coding and optimization of some ports, in which case there is no option but to brute force through the console code.

 

But if a person games at 3840x2160 as I have been for a few months now, wants a vsync-locked 60 fps minimum, and desires maxed options, he is in the position I am in that he is wondering if even a 2080 Ti is going to be able to cut it. When I used a CRT and maxed options didn't give me the framerate I needed, I could simply dial down the resolution, but that's not desirable with a fixed-pixel display, and it's not even possible with the OLED display I have now due to burn-in concerns. So I must have a card that can do 4K @ 60 fps minimum at maxed options.

 

And then there's VR, as well...

 

The GPU power needed for any given resolution and framerate would be incredibly lower with foveated rendering. I really can't believe it's not being utilized already.

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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

I guess I was wrong I never really though about all of that other stuff as well.

 

----------

 

Another question.....

 

I know there is a way but I just can't remember maybe one of you guys know....

 

Can someone remind me how to calculate a Power Banks MaH vs your Phone/Tablet Battery MaH so you can see how many times a specific power bank will charge your phone or tablet before itself needs to be recharged?

 

-----

 

EDIT

 

I think I remember can someone confirm just to make sure please?

 

Divide the mAh of the power bank by the mAh of your device battery.

So a 6,000 mAh power bank can charge an iPhoneX which has a 2,716mAh around two times and one/fourth time before the power bank itself needs to be recharged

  

Edited by AiraCobra
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@Dealux

 

My understanding is that benchmarks should start appearing on either the 17th or the 19th (I'm not sure which is accurate). Until then, it's pointless to speculate about relative performance.

 

As far as your PSU, I don't believe the cards will use any more power than the previous generation. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that you don't want to run your PSU close to its maximum capacity. You want to keep your power draw under 80% of the PSU's rating, and ideally closer to 60%, in order to maximize electrical efficiency and extend the life of the component. Of course, an added benefit is that you do have overhead available if absolutely necessary.

 

P.S. I just noticed your earlier post in which someone questions whether 43" is "TOO BIG" for gaming. I think I can answer that definitively.

 

Ever since the beginning of 2014 I have occasionally been playing games on my 110" 1080p projector screen. I would usually play at a distance of 8 or even 5 feet, the screen being 8 feet wide. For a few months I have been gaming on a 55" OLED television, at a distance of 18" to 24", the screen being 48" wide.

 

The reason for sitting close to a display is to increase the field of view (FOV), which has a profound effect on immersion. The trade-off is that the closer one is, the lower the apparent resolution (that is, angular resolution). Viewing a 55" display from 18" is amazing at 3840x2160, but far less pleasing at 1920x1080.

 

I would much rather be viewing games stereoscopically from within a VR display, but among other issues the resolution is not near high enough for me yet. I don't have stereoscopy or head-tracking, but I do have a far, far higher resolution and an even higher FOV than a Vive or Rift.

Edited by Dryspace
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@Dealux

 

Optimal rendered (or in-game) FOV is a function of display size and viewing distance, which together determine your actual FOV: how much of one's own field of view the display itself takes up.

 

Aspect ratio alone means nothing. For example, let's take two displays: One with an aspect ratio of 10:1 (a very, very wide rectangle) and another with an aspect ratio of 1:1 (a square). If the first is 1 ft. high and 10 ft wide, and the second is 1 ft high and 1 ft wide, then they both have the same height. Which means for any given viewing distance, the ideal in-game vertical FOV would be the same. The ideal horizontal FOV however would be much higher for the 10:1 display than the 1:1 display.

 

Similarly, let's take the same two displays in the previous example and place them on a wall. If I view one of them from 2 ft away, and the other from 10 ft away, I'm going to want a much higher in-game FOV for the close viewing distance and a much lower in-game FOV for the far viewing distance. That is because when I am close to the display, my actual FOV is higher, and when I am far, my actual FOV is lower.

 

You can test these principles yourself with a game which allows the instantaneous alteration of FOV. Get as far back as you can from the display while still being able to control the camera with the mouse. Now, increase the FOV of the game until it just gets to the point at which you see obvious distortion when the camera is rotated. Now, keeping that FOV, get closer and closer to the screen while rotating the camera. You'll notice that as you get close enough, the distortion disappears.

 

That is because as you got closer, your actual FOV became closer and closer to that of the in-game FOV, whereas when you were further back, your actual FOV was much lower than the in-game FOV.

 

Aspect ratio alone can not be used to determine the optimal in-game FOV.

Edited by Dryspace
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On 9/15/2018 at 6:22 PM, AiraCobra said:

Nvidia is already releasing a new 2080 graphics card soon after the 1080's release not so long ago.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but

 

Is there really a need to buy such a huge graphics card right now? Are there any games out there right now that this card is warranted?

 

I mean the 1080 just came out not too long ago and games are still catching up too that.

 

Right now it just seems to me that since there aren't many games right now that warrant such a graphics card such as this are people buying this card just to show off or is it really needed already and 1080 is in the dust?

The 1080 was released in May 2016. By technology standards, it's ancient today. It might even be unheard of for such a long time to pass between generations. And yes, there are scenarios that warrant such horsepower. It depends not only on the game but on the resolution and the refresh rate.

On 9/15/2018 at 8:53 PM, AiraCobra said:

 

Another question.....

 

 

I know there is a way but I just can't remember maybe one of you guys know....

 

Can someone remind me how to calculate a Power Banks MaH vs your Phone/Tablet Battery MaH so you can see how many times a specific power bank will charge your phone or tablet before itself needs to be recharged?

 

-----

 

EDIT

 

I think I remember can someone confirm just to make sure please?

 

Divide the mAh of the power bank by the mAh of your device battery.

So a 6,000 mAh power bank can charge an iPhoneX which has a 2,716mAh around two times and one/fourth time before the power bank itself needs to be recharged

  

Yes, in a perfect world. In real life both the battery on the phone and the power bank will wear and their real capacities will drop, though in principle your calculation will work.

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@Andreaz1 is correct. I actually have meant to research this, but as far as I know, there has never been a longer period in between NVIDIA generations than between the 1000 series and RTX: 28 months.

 

Since I built my first gaming PC in 2008, the average has been around 14 months, if I'm not mistaken.

Edited by Dryspace
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ṼirulenⱦEqừinox

I guess I never really paid much attention to the release dates of graphic cards because I wasn't in the process of building a new rig or anything.

 

psa shooting star shooting stars the more you know public service announcement GIF

 

------------

 

Fix'd

Edited by AiraCobra
The Mo' You Know ☆
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  • 1 month later...

Anyone used ShakMods for custom sleeving for PSUs before? They seem pretty reasonable compared to some of the other providers- a full set including 2x 8 pin CPU and an extra pair of GPUs is under £120.

 

Just been planning out cable designs:

 

iOrCWnM.png

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