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Case- & Hardware Modding


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Margot Robbed Me

Got myself a new case so I can finally put a computer back on the desk without having a huge tower. I think any modifications to this will be non-destructive. Once I removed my custom parts from my last case, the case was left unusable, and I don't want to repeat that.

 

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11 hours ago, KDA said:

Got myself a new case so I can finally put a computer back on the desk without having a huge tower. I think any modifications to this will be non-destructive. Once I removed my custom parts from my last case, the case was left unusable, and I don't want to repeat that.

But.. it's not REALLY your case before you've voided all the warranties and cut it to sh*t. ;)

 

Love those cases though! Proper stylish!

  • Like 1
On 8/2/2020 at 1:18 PM, sivispacem said:

Did some pump surgery today...

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Now with a connector on the other end.

 

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Despite my dreadful soldering skills it still seems to work fine.

  • 2 weeks later...

Customised Noctua NF-P12 Redux

 

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Only broke 33% of the fans I modified.

  • 2 weeks later...

Distro pr0n:

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It looks pretty f*ckin' special.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

After a delay in transit due to Chinese customs, it's here:

 

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  • Like 3

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Progress has stalled because I forgot to order the right CPU block mounting hardware. But it's going to look tidy as f*ck.

 

-E

 

Quick lower rad test fit

 

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  • Like 3

CPU block fitted.

 

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GPU block fitted.

 

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Painted the PCB sides then fitted

 

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It slightly annoys me I can see the thermal pads from the side, though.

  • Like 2

That's a really nice looking pc you have there, love the colour coordination! I was actually considering getting the Heatkiller block for my 1080 Ti before the 30 series dropped. Right now all I've actually got is a dual 180mm radiator sitting in a box.

Margot Robbed Me

Ahh the beauty of ignorance. I feel like a kid again, learning all kinds of sh*t. Just when I thought aluminum grades didn't matter that much.

 

I love working with metal, but here's a heads up for anyone who is just starting. Aluminum grades matter, quite a lot.

 

6061 has always been my go-to grade of aluminum, it's perfect for a lot of uses. These plates are 3.2mm thick, 6061 aluminum. The 6061 couldn't handle the sharp bend and cracked.

 

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Repeatedly.

 

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If you're making a flat part with zero bends, go with 6061 or 7075.

 

However, for sharp bends, 3003 or 5052 aluminum is what you want.

 

I'm having these parts redone in slightly thinner 5052 and will try a larger bend radius.

 

I ordered 5 pairs of these things, and 2 pairs are now cracked from the bend attempts. I'm still debating on what to do with the other pairs. I thought about just cutting off the flaps just selling them as "prototypes" to people who want them.

It's been much slower going than I'd hoped but both rads and some of the harder to access cables are now in.

 

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Just tubing and the rest of the cables to sort now. Definitely needs dual GPUs to fill out the case...

  • 2 weeks later...

Okay so that's all the major tubing runs done. Really happy with how it's looking. I need to finish up, pressure test then can finish wiring it up.

 

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  • Like 2

Tweaked a couple of runs...and now that's it done. Now I just need to finishing wiring and cable tidying.

 

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  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
43 minutes ago, KDA said:

If the GPU power cables were routed the same way as the 24 pin and tubing, all of the tubes/wiring would be running almost parallel. I'm not sure if you have anywhere to tuck it that direction though.

I did try this, but I couldn't get and alignment I was happy with due to a combination of the positions of the cutouts on the mobo tray cover and the fact it's an EVGA card with upside down connectors.

Are you gonna run regular ol' distilled in that beast or go for something coloured since it'll accent the distro plate?

42 minutes ago, Blaze said:

Are you gonna run regular ol' distilled in that beast or go for something coloured since it'll accent the distro plate?

Distilled for now. I'm likely to be moving my office downstairs in the next few months so will need to drain and refill then anyway.

 

I've got two litres of EK-Cryofuel in pastel yellow to go in there once I'm fully set up.

Margot Robbed Me

I got bored. 😄

 

Here's a simple cover concept that should be universal for hiding GPU cables, you'd just need to modify the dimensions and mounting bracket area to go around any components to give you a direct path to drill to the board tray. As a bonus, you could use the front part (TEST) to stick on whatever logo or symbol/stripes/LGBT flag.


Easily bendable in thin aluminum and even more so in acrylic, then painted whatever color.

 

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2 hours ago, KDA said:

I got bored. 😄

 

Here's a simple cover concept that should be universal for hiding GPU cables, you'd just need to modify the dimensions and mounting bracket area to go around any components to give you a direct path to drill to the board tray. As a bonus, you could use the front part (TEST) to stick on whatever logo or symbol/stripes/LGBT flag.


Easily bendable in thin aluminum and even more so in acrylic, then painted whatever color.

 

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Ok that's very cool. I could actually tweak the bracket to screw into the bracket I have for my GPU supports.

  • Like 1
Margot Robbed Me

Really cheap as well. I just had it quoted by the laser cutter. That piece 300mm x 70mm (flat-pattern) costs a whopping $2.02 USD to make. Only dropping to $1.90USD if you order 5. That's in 1mm thick 5052 aluminum. Even if the 300x70 mm size won't cover it, it wouldn't cost much more even for a piece twice as large.

 

Edit: For reference, this is the flat-pattern I had quoted

 

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Edited by KDA
Margot Robbed Me

Well. I said before that I didn't want to ruin the Cryorig Taku case I got, and so every mod would be non-destructive (revertible to stock condition).

 

I'm still on the fence about this, but I guess making an entirely new frame counts as non-destructive.


Same idea as the old Stacker build I made, with covers hiding all of the wires. I redid the interior to allow for a different airflow setup.

 

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Covers off:

 

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I still don't know if I would do this, but I might have the frame cut in brass then polish it.

 

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Well it's pretty much finished now, except for needing to cut a couple of covers for the back to go above and below the distro plate.

 

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Running great, super quiet and temps are excellent.

I've got my curves set in such a way that I can keep CPU temps under 75 and GPU temps around 52/53 on non-AVX workloads even when running both at 100% simultaneously, and despite a 4.3GHz/1.285v CPU overclock and 2055MHz GPU core/7750MHz GPU RAM clocks.

  • Like 2
Margot Robbed Me

It's the new hoax frame!

 

First version of the new frame and, as expected, there are a few things that are 1-2mm off when compared to the original frame. This version doesn't have all of the cutouts present in the final version, in order to keep the cost down, since these test versions end up in the trash bin anyway.

 

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Margot Robbed Me

I guess a full custom case was inevitable, so here is my work in progress ITX case. The frame itself is 380x320x85mm. Not the smallest, but I'm more comfortable with a little extra space anyway.

 

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So far, only the frame is near completion. The case will be for a retro-futuristic/atomic age (think Fallout) theme, and I'm hitting some roadblocks on the outer design. Although here is one early concept to make it shaped like an old radio/alarm. I might have to do some kitbashing with knobs to finish the look in the end, which oughta be fun.

 

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I feel like some curves are needed, such as in this design.

 

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Which would be possible with my 3D printer. However, I'd prefer something doable in aluminum, to keep the case all metal. I've since redone the bend radius on the outer case to add a bit more curves, but I'm still not satisfied.

1 hour ago, alexsandro22 said:

I was thinking about buying the Heatkiller block but I don't think it would be still actual in the next years.

They're well worth the money- miles better quality than the likes of EK.

  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, KDA said:

Still not a huge fan of mechanicals 

That's kinda like saying "not a huge fan of orgasms"...

Margot Robbed Me

😂 I'm typing on my older Cherry MX 3.0 board right now, but I think the only reason I've tolerated it is because of the low profile keys, which makes it closer to a membrane/scissor switch board. I still type just as fast on my Macbook Pro keys.

 

Even with the new board complete, I'm still looking for another low profile mechanical keyboard. I've seen the Keychron K1, but I'll probably end up creating a new body/frame for it if I do get it. Because as it sits, it's just a plain rectangular plate with an abrupt rise to the keys. My Cherry MX 3.0 at least has a wristpad and a small lip on the board to rest my palm.

 

Oh and the Keychron is wireless as well, so there's that.

Edited by KDA
  • 3 weeks later...

I am looking to build some sort of wall mounted monitor frame as a case.

Quick draw:

Spoiler

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Can you please have a look and let me know if there is anything that I should consider before starting the build?

Edited by IS90
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