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Margot Robbed Me

Well, after plenty of messing about with a 3D model, I think I'm somewhat settled on an interior for the Chanel case. The first piece is complete, a replacement board tray cut from 2mm aluminum.

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And here it is mocked up in the case. The mounting brackets still need to be made.

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DieselFuelOnly

Limited edition GTX 280 in all it's glory after multiple resurrections and a fan transplant. The fan is a 4800 RPM Vantec Tornado.
Temps are never an issue lmao.

 

 

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Edited by DieselFuelOnly
  • Like 2

^ Best post thus far. :beerhat:

 

The guy at Singularity Computers is so informative in terms of building custom PC's. I still sift through some of his older build logs and learn new things. He does everything from custom case modding, water cooling and sleeving. The term 'anal' doesn't even begin to describe the detail he puts in his builds.

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA

 

I noticed an old video where he used a method of using the silicone inserts to estimate tubing bends, so I'll definitely be using that next time to fix my current bends. I plan to empty my current coolant in January or February from pastel UV green to transparent UV blue, and redo a lot of things I felt I messed up on. Considering that my current build was my first attempt at doing something custom with not only my case, but also with water cooling, I think I'll be even more anal the second go-around.

Margot Robbed Me

You should check out the Mod Zoo & Bit-Tech, there's quite a lot of folks who work every detail into their projects. Following others' builds is what got me into modding as well. What really kickstarted it was finding the Million-Dollar-PC site years back and seeing this build in particular.

 

https://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2010/cygnus-x1/cygnus-x1.htm

 

My jaw was dropped scrolling through it all. Nearly all of it was hand made and carved. A true work of art. The MDPC site hasn't been updated in a while, but I still go there for inspiration. A scratch build is something I've wanted to do for a long time, but something I'm not confident enough with. Maybe in time...

  • Like 2

Well, after plenty of messing about with a 3D model, I think I'm somewhat settled on an interior for the Chanel case. The first piece is complete, a replacement board tray cut from 2mm aluminum.

 

And here it is mocked up in the case. The mounting brackets still need to be made.

 

Looks hella cool. What are you going to do for screwing in/supporting the graphics card? An internal bracket of some sort?

 

This dude converted his Manta to MATX and crammed an SLI setup in there amazingly. Quite cool:

 

 

  • Like 1
Margot Robbed Me

Hahaha. I actually have no idea if a GPU will even fit at the moment, I'm foolishly neglecting that part right now lol. More than likely a custom bracket yes, connected using a riser cable. It may end up in a vertical position but we shall see! The outside of the Manta is quite misleading. It really is quite small inside and I have very little figured out. :lol:

Tried a bunch of different reservoir mounts and brackets, but none really let me position the reservoir the way I want, with the minuscule tolerances I have in the case really requiring something unique.

 

So, fashioned this new bracket and holders in SketchUp - going to have it laser cut in acrylic. If it's too wobbly I'll have to find someone who can cut the bracket it in steel in stead. Tried making a strong construction that didn't obstruct the airflow too much.

 

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  • Like 1

Have you tried Singularity Computers' custom mounts? Supposedly, they were designed to fit all sorts of reservoirs for this very reason.

 

https://www.singularitycomputers.com/product-category/watercooling

Have you tried Singularity Computers' custom mounts? Supposedly, they were designed to fit all sorts of reservoirs for this very reason.

 

https://www.singularitycomputers.com/product-category/watercooling

 

I really like the look of them, but they're way too bulky to fit in the front of my case I'm afraid. :)

Margot Robbed Me

I'd have the bracket itself cut out of aluminum over acrylic if possible, and maybe have the holding rings 3D printed instead. Then just drill and tap them yourself to mount onto the aluminum bracket. A few people seem to get their reservoir mounts 3D printed with no problems.

 

And happy holidays you filthy animals. :lol:

Turned out all right, but I might have the bracket remade in a metal of sorts - it is a bit floppy. Need to make a small adjustment anyways. :)

 

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Using quite a fine M3 thread, which isn't that ideal for acrylic, but drilling and tapping the holes actually went way more smoothly than I'd feared.

 

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  • Like 4

Looks real good! Did you opt for 3D printing or laser cutting the rings? You could probably easily strengthen that bracket by just widening the arms a bit, or adding cross bracing.

Everything was laser cut from cast PMMA - the bracket in 3mm, and the rings in 10mm. Yeah, might make it a bit bulkier for strength. Was worried about obstructing the airflow too much, but probably won't make much of a difference.

Margot Robbed Me

Well meanwhile, with the case build going as slow as ever, I've decided to give mechanical keyboards a second try. So I picked one up and started changing it to match the build. I originally had all the keys blank (except the spacebar), but I decided to test out some lettering for the alphabet keys. I'm still unsure how I feel about it, so I may just go all blank again. Waiting for some connectors to arrive so I can finish up the last part, which is a detachable cable mod to clean up the appearance a bit more.

 

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Still keeping my trusty ten year old S510 board for practicality purposes. :lol:

what do you mean 'all blank.'

you mean like all blank?? :lol:

 

so you have to memorize the layout?

like you know where most of them are of course, but you wouldn't label any of the function keys?

 

looks incredible though.

usually I can't stand how much noise a mechanical keyboard produces. is it loud per se? my OCD is only settled by super low-profile keys.

  • Like 1

Cherry Red and Brown mechanicals aren't really louder than a membrane keyboard once you get used to them, as you never bottom out the keys.

 

Blues sound like dropping a typewriter down a lift shaft.

  • Like 2
Margot Robbed Me

 

 

what do you mean 'all blank.'

you mean like all blank?? :lol:

 

so you have to memorize the layout?

like you know where most of them are of course, but you wouldn't label any of the function keys?

 

looks incredible though.

usually I can't stand how much noise a mechanical keyboard produces. is it loud per se? my OCD is only settled by super low-profile keys.

 

Correct, all blank! :lol: It can be quite confusing for any visitors who use the board and aren't familiar enough with the layout, but I think I'm fine with it. I just really like how minimalistic it looks when all blank.

 

I find mechanical keyboards really loud as well. I switched out all of the switches for MX Browns on my previous board (K65) and put O-rings on them, which sort of helped, but as sivis said, you really have to get used to it in order for them to really quiet down, because even with the O-rings it still sounded loud as I was still forcing them all the way down. I've had my Logitech S510 board for a decade now, so it'll probably take me a while to get into the habit of using a mech board.

  • 2 weeks later...

Blue's all the way! I had the Red's because I was a bit hesitant about the sound, but they were almost too soft and I was making a lot of typos, so I exchanged it for the Blue version. I might have gone with the Brown for the tactile feedback, but I got used to it and haven't looked back.

 

What was base keyboard you used to make the Chanel one?

Doesn't look that pleasant to operate, but who cares when it's that bloody gorgeous? Awesome idea with the detachable cable. :O

  • Like 1
Margot Robbed Me

:lol: You're absolutely right. I much prefer my ten year old Logitech S510. The thing has faded print on a quarter of the keys, is missing a few buttons, and overall very beat up, but it remains my sole keyboard. There's a certain point you cross where something loses practicality/functionality and instead becomes more of a showpiece. Just dropping the Chanel board once or having something drop on it would likely cause an imperfection that would bother me, and lead me to redoing it all again (something I have very very little motivation to do). With my S510 keyboard, I can fling it across the room and not have my day bothered one bit. The Chanel kb is boxed in storage and is unlikely to ever be used.

  • 2 weeks later...

How do you even begin to start doing this? In fairness I've just built a system inside a RavenRV02( Or something ) and there's barely enough room for the rigging nevermind any modifications sadly. Although it's stuffed inside a TV unit never to see the light of day anyways.

 

All that aside the stuff I'm seeing in here is unreal!

  • 4 weeks later...
HaRdSTyLe_83

in my mind i already made alot of modifications to my case, but then i get back to real life where i dont have the tools nor do i know someone that could laser cut some custom parts for my case :/

the only thing i know that i can do on my own, and have to do it next time i disassemble the pc is removing the rivets holding the hdd trays from my H440 so i can have some extra room to place a reservoir, now if only i could make the side window bigger without f**king the whole side panel.....

Margot Robbed Me

Search for any local laser cutters to you. There should be at least one. If not, try contacting ColdZero in Portugal. I've bought many pieces from them for my Corsair 900D. I think they'll do custom laser cutting if you provide them the models.

Finally got some time to work on the build. Sleeved the EK D5 pump, which had these nasty wires sticking out of it.

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Much better. :)

  • Like 2

 

Finally got some time to work on the build. Sleeved the EK D5 pump, which had these nasty wires sticking out of it.

 

Much better. :)

That's really nice, is it time consuming wrapping them I would assume?

 

 

If you've tried it a few times before, it's a quick job. This took me about an hour total, being extra meticulous about the lengths of the wires, and not accidentally shorting something out inside the pump. I've melted the ends of the sleeving to the wire, to achieve that "heatshrinkless" look when the wire is inserted into the connector. :)

 

Here's a really helpful guide:

 

 

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