Hugo_Agante Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) I have bought today a new PSU for my PC to sustain the new GPU I bought some weeks ago, the R9 285, because I had been having a sudden reboot every now and then (check: http://gtaforums.com/topic/794939-pc-rebooting-suddenly/page-1). So I took the PC to the store and they came up that after all it wasn't the PSU's fault as I initially though, but an error in the BIOS. After that I asked them what PSU should I buy for my new GPU as they said the one I had (1Life 600W) wasn't enough. They said the Nox NX 650W would do the job. My question is, will it really? My other specs are: OS: Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit RAM: 8 GB GPU: ASUS Radeon R9 285 Strix OC 2GB (http://www.game-debate.com/hardware/index.php?gid=2632&graphics=Radeon%20R9%20285%20Asus%20Strix%20OC%202GB%20Edition) CPU: AMD FX-6300 (stock) (http://www.game-debate.com/hardware/?pid=1146&cpu=FX-6300) Motherboard: ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0 (http://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=2554&motherboard=Asus%20M5A97%20EVO%20R2.0) Thanks in advance. Edited June 3, 2015 by Hugo_Agante Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank ツ Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 well i got a 750watt and it feeds my DUAL 7970's perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTRiP Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) "iTRiP" Total Watts doesn't really tell, you might want to add up all your components's required watts & amps required for the rails or if you power convert on the satas or molexes double check those amp ratings...any power supply unit [PSU] should have a diagrammed info label sticker to check this and the box or packaging should state it too, when shopping online for a PSU, you can usually enlarge the pic's of the items for sale to see these specifications.There are online pc component watts & ampere calculators...somewhere on the internet. You know what I've been wandering concerning PSU's is, say a particular PSU is rated at max amperes of for example 60 Amps on the main rail, doesn't my houses earth leakage trip switch, wiring, plugs and leads also have to match that? I'm doubting that, but it could be of note, the PSU is a sort of transformer if I'm not mistaking and the in-power is still rated at what the country where you would use it's standard. Edited June 2, 2015 by iTRiP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank ツ Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 "iTRiP" why, WHY is this fokking thing multiple times in every goddamn post you make, jesus christ Daniol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTRiP Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) "iTRiP" why, WHY is this fokking thing multiple times in every goddamn post you make, jesus christ I know, but you might also ask thou's opinion, but apparently thou is not around anymore, thus I shall provide the answer, it looks awesome and it is unique, that's just my opinion. Has anyone given this some thought might be of use to the op: You know what I've been wandering concerning PSU's is, say a particular PSU is rated at max amperes of for example 60 Amps on the main rail, doesn't my houses earth leakage trip switch, wiring, plugs and leads also have to match that? I'm doubting that, but it could be of note, the PSU is a sort of transformer if I'm not mistaking and the in-power is still rated at what the country where you would use it's standard. Edited June 3, 2015 by iTRiP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Default_Man Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I generally use this tool when setting up a PC for myself or someone else, saves quite a bit of guess work on the Watt requirement. http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kampret Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Uhh, when buying a PSU, these days you really should never only look at the maximum wattage. Always look for the 12V rail amperage first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTRiP Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I generally use this tool when setting up a PC for myself or someone else, saves quite a bit of guess work on the Watt requirement. http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp Sweet tool, thanks for sharing might be of some use to the op to get the general idea, how ever it's not very accurate yet, dev's are probably still refing the code... example: any 300watts total power PSU can power any motherboard and any overclocked CPU combination with minimal components to get function able pc. "iTRiP" So In fact if one should be able to have one small PSU for just the mainboard components and CPU, and anything computer hardware power related added would require an additional PSU or a higher rated one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugo_Agante Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) These are the PSU specs, maybe you guys could tell me if it's enough or not to handle all my other hardware: Type: ATX 12V & EPS 12V Ver. 2.91 PFC: Active DC Output: +3.3V - 20A / +5V - 17A / +12V - 50A / -12V - 0.3A / +5VSB - 2.5A Voltage: 230V - 6.3A - 50 / 60 Hz Maximum Power: 650W Rails: 1 x 12V Refrigeration: 1 x Fan 140 mm Dimensions: 150 x 160 x 86 mm Conectors:1 x 20+4 pin MB 1 x 4+4 pin CPU 2 x PCIE 6+2 pin 4 x SATA 4 x HDD 1 x Floppy Edited June 3, 2015 by Hugo_Agante Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMcSame Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 On the surface it looks fine, it should power it... When you look into it though... The OEM is Huizhou Xin Hui Yuan Tech, effectively an unknown (Chinese?) OEM which is probably making crap like the no brand PSUs you see in pre built PCs. It probably lacks any electrical protection. I'd replace it with something else tbh. RoG Goat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTRiP Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) On the surface it looks fine, it should power it... When you look into it though... The OEM is Huizhou Xin Hui Yuan Tech, effectively an unknown (Chinese?) OEM which is probably making crap like the no brand PSUs you see in pre built PCs. It probably lacks any electrical protection. I'd replace it with something else tbh. "iTRiP" Yeah exactly for this very point, these cheap ones, don't take my word for it just talking out of past experiences usually have a fan that is noisy or becomes noisy fast or even fails before warranty is out, they don't have the capacity for spikes of current and will most likely fail in protecting your other hardware from such electrical high/lows, however cheap is sometimes acceptable if the specs are great and you are able to do the fan replacement without shocking yourself, keep in mind that you void the warrantee in such a case, but this method proves viable option to save on about half the regular cost. This is of particular comedian note: Refrigeration: 1 x Fan 140 mm. Never have I seen the ordinary fan been called or labelled this way. Edited June 3, 2015 by iTRiP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugo_Agante Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 On the surface it looks fine, it should power it... When you look into it though... The OEM is Huizhou Xin Hui Yuan Tech, effectively an unknown (Chinese?) OEM which is probably making crap like the no brand PSUs you see in pre built PCs. It probably lacks any electrical protection. I'd replace it with something else tbh. Well I bought this one because it's the one they advised me to buy so if anything happens, it's their fault and I'll ask for my money back. On the surface it looks fine, it should power it... When you look into it though... The OEM is Huizhou Xin Hui Yuan Tech, effectively an unknown (Chinese?) OEM which is probably making crap like the no brand PSUs you see in pre built PCs. It probably lacks any electrical protection. I'd replace it with something else tbh. "iTRiP" Yeah exactly for this very point, these cheap ones, don't take my word for it just talking out of past experiences usually have a fan that is noisy or becomes noisy fast or even fails before warranty is out, they don't have the capacity for spikes of current and will most likely fail in protecting your other hardware from such electrical high/lows, however cheap is sometimes acceptable if the specs are great and you are able to do the fan replacement without shocking yourself, keep in mind that you void the warrantee in such a case, but this method proves viable option to save on about half the regular cost. This is of particular comedian note: Refrigeration: 1 x Fan 140 mm. Never have I seen the ordinary fan been called or labelled this way. As I said, I bought this one because it was the one they told me to buy I just wanna know if it will handle it or not. It's labelled that way but not my fault, I just copied and pasted the specifications from the web site. The only thing I did was translating it to English as it was in Portuguese. Though thanks for the answers guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTRiP Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) No troubles whatsoever, I'm glad to help. Hopefully you learned something. Edited June 3, 2015 by iTRiP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugo_Agante Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 No troubles whatsoever, I'm glad to help. Hopefully you learned something. I did learn something, thanks. I already knew that I had to look to the 12V rail amperage and the price but well, I wanna trust what the shop I bought the PC from tells me, otherwise if there's no trust, shops lose their credibility and that's a problem, especially when dealing with hardware products that ain't exactly cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoG Goat Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) That is ALSO an untrustworthy brand I would not ever recommend buying. There were multiple name brand PSUs thrown at you in your last thread. I will repeat them here in-order of worst to greatest. worst CX600 XFX 550 (no longer on sale) Seasonic 550w best keep in mind that although the CX600 is rated worst for quality out of that list, its parts and components are still miles ahead of those no-name PSUs you keep finding xD I would stop shopping at that store altogether, or at the least stop taking their advice. Best of luck to you. Edit.... I hadn't read through the thread before I posted. I didn't know you had already bought it. According to the specs, it will power your PC... but honestly its a fire hazard and I would not leave it unattended in my home. Edited June 4, 2015 by RoG Goat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMcSame Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 worst CX600 XFX 550 (no longer on sale) Seasonic 550w EDIT: XFX XTR 550w best Can't forget the XTR, one does not simply forget the XTR when mentioning 550/650w PSUs. RoG Goat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugo_Agante Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) That is ALSO an untrustworthy brand I would not ever recommend buying. There were multiple name brand PSUs thrown at you in your last thread. I will repeat them here in-order of worst to greatest. worst CX600 XFX 550 (no longer on sale) Seasonic 550w best keep in mind that although the CX600 is rated worst for quality out of that list, its parts and components are still miles ahead of those no-name PSUs you keep finding xD I would stop shopping at that store altogether, or at the least stop taking their advice. Best of luck to you. Edit.... I hadn't read through the thread before I posted. I didn't know you had already bought it. According to the specs, it will power your PC... but honestly its a fire hazard and I would not leave it unattended in my home. Yeah, judging by the price it was (41 euros) I was doubting it was enough but since they SAID it was, I'll "trust" them. And if isn't enough after all, it's THEIR fault and I'll throw that in their face and ask for my money back, as simple as that, because they tricked me. I also wanted to buy a name brand PSU mentioned on the other thread (I even asked an opinion about one of them) but I asked the shop and they told me this NX 650 would cover all my hardware and it was considerably cheaper than other PSUs so I bought it. I'll probably need to spend more money, whether that's on a new case or a CPU cooler due to overheating on GTA V. I hope it covers that too. Thanks for the luck man, I won't need it if the shop was honest though Edited June 4, 2015 by Hugo_Agante Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durpflip Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 to be quite honest,if you're not passing 300W then a 500W name-brand PSU should do fine. hell,i'm still running a similarly-modeled (directCU II,STRIX,OC) GTX 750 ti on a no-name 430W PSU (stock dell XPS 8500 crap). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugo_Agante Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 to be quite honest,if you're not passing 300W then a 500W name-brand PSU should do fine. hell,i'm still running a similarly-modeled (directCU II,STRIX,OC) GTX 750 ti on a no-name 430W PSU (stock dell XPS 8500 crap). Well I don't really know how many W I'm using, is there a way to check this? But if you say you run a similar GPU on an even lower quality PSU, I should have no problems xD Thanks for your reply mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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