Car Talk Topic

[Cursed]

I'd get this instead:

 

http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-Great-BMW-for-sale-W0QQAdIdZ525723398

 

I don't know if it's my unfamiliarity with American/Canadian cars but the majority of them in that price range would send me to sleep. All automatic generic barges.

[Insane Elite]

Hmm... didn't see anyone talking about supercars.

 

Anyone seen this car? (it's a concept, but people are working to make it real)

 

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-2011/r-z-0-9/2011-Shayton-Equilibrium-Renderings-Top-Front-And-Side-1920x1440.jpg

 

(the car's name is Shayton Equilibrium)

[trip]

OK...mine actually has a cassette in it. There is even another cassette in the glove box(for back up). See...now I'm going to have to take pictures tomorrow since those cassettes are actual mix tapes with novelty names written on the labels.

 

 

and my free air fresheners. They will forever be called nukabomb by me.

[sivispacem]

Hmm... didn't see anyone talking about supercars.

 

Anyone seen this car? (it's a concept, but people are working to make it real)

 

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-2011/r-z-0-9/2011-Shayton-Equilibrium-Renderings-Top-Front-And-Side-1920x1440.jpg

 

(the car's name is Shayton Equilibrium)

 

Yet another generic "hypercar" manufacturer from some backwater with nice 3D renders, no business plan, no engine, no customers and no hope of survival. They really do bore me.

 

Real small-volume supercar producers have enough trouble breaking even despite having respected names and actual, paying customers, Look at established brands like Noble, or even the likes of Lotus and Ginetta who have real pedigree and colourful history. There are a million and one of these pipe dream, tax-scam hypercar companies- and that's what most of them are, a tax scam to be able to write off expenses as development costs and product investment to avoid paying corporation tax on them- and this one is absolutely no different.

Edited October 1, 2013 by sivispacem

[Mega]

 

Hmm... didn't see anyone talking about supercars.

 

Anyone seen this car? (it's a concept, but people are working to make it real)

 

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-2011/r-z-0-9/2011-Shayton-Equilibrium-Renderings-Top-Front-And-Side-1920x1440.jpg

 

(the car's name is Shayton Equilibrium)

 

Yet another generic "hypercar" manufacturer from some backwater with nice 3D renders, no business plan, no engine, no customers and no hope of survival. They really do bore me.

 

 

 

 

Highfive!

[Lurch]

 

Hmm... didn't see anyone talking about supercars.

 

Anyone seen this car? (it's a concept, but people are working to make it real)

 

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-2011/r-z-0-9/2011-Shayton-Equilibrium-Renderings-Top-Front-And-Side-1920x1440.jpg

 

(the car's name is Shayton Equilibrium)

 

Yet another generic "hypercar" manufacturer from some backwater with nice 3D renders, no business plan, no engine, no customers and no hope of survival. They really do bore me.

 

Real small-volume supercar producers have enough trouble breaking even despite having respected names and actual, paying customers, Look at established brands like Noble, or even the likes of Lotus and Ginetta who have real pedigree and colourful history. There are a million and one of these pipe dream, tax-scam hypercar companies- and that's what most of them are, a tax scam to be able to write off expenses as development costs and product investment to avoid paying corporation tax on them- and this one is absolutely no different.

 

Kind of makes you think what it takes for a company to stay afloat. I think Pagani can thank a big deal of its success to having a contract on AMG engines. Konieggaheagheasagehseg even started out with Ford as an engine supplier the first half of its life before they made their own stuff. Morgan had to get a BMW contract to stay safe. Lotus did Toyota.

 

TVR might be a good example of dreaming too big when they got away from the Rover stuff and made their own motors. They were dead maybe 10 years later?

[sivispacem]

Converting from fibreglass to carbon fibre body shells for the T440 and Typhon was what killed TVR in the end. They invested a great deal in new processes despite having too small a customer base for it to make financial sense. They sold the AJP6 and AJP8 in pretty good numbers and at a profit, despite the fact both were actually very advanced and complex engines. EU5 emissions regs didn't exactly help either given that these two stalwarts of their lineup were effectively racing engines in every way- drysump, alloy block, ITBs, equal length manifold, heads with better flow patterns than the Cosworth DFV F1 engine...

[friendly luggage]

Does anyone have a friend that drives like an idiot? I've got one who thinks he's Vin Diesel in Fast and Furious. He constantly speeds and goes way too fast down country lanes. You can often feel the car becoming light like it's about to slide. Probably worst of all, he's driven home drunk. I think all the performance cars at his work have gone to his head. He usually boasts that he's driven the latest Skyline, M3, or some car that has had tens of thousands just spent on it. I really hope he loses his license to be honest. At least then he won't be able to kill someone.

 

Anyway rant over. In January there's a possibilty of me finally getting a car. Still not sure on what I want yet but I'm feeling nervous as I haven't driven on the road since mid 2012 which was when I passed my test.

Edited October 5, 2013 by illegal_luggage

[Lurch]

Does anyone have a friend that drives like an idiot? I've got one who thinks he's Vin Diesel in Fast and Furious. He constantly speeds and goes way too fast down country lanes. You can often feel the car becoming light like it's about to slide. Probably worst of all, he's driven home drunk.

Mother of God! The horror!

[Ronnyboy]

 

Does anyone have a friend that drives like an idiot? I've got one who thinks he's Vin Diesel in Fast and Furious. He constantly speeds and goes way too fast down country lanes. You can often feel the car becoming light like it's about to slide. Probably worst of all, he's driven home drunk.

Mother of God! The horror!

 

Got a friend who used to race karts back with me when we were little, only he still does it. When we are down country roads, I never really feel unsafe since he knows the limits of the road and his vehicle (02 Pontiac Trans AM). We've even booze cruised, with his GoPro, and reviewing the video he drove perfectly. Almost scary in that sense

[Strengthcamp]

Got a friend who used to race karts back with me when we were little, only he still does it. When we are down country roads, I never really feel unsafe since he knows the limits of the road and his vehicle (02 Pontiac Trans AM). We've even booze cruised, with his GoPro, and reviewing the video he drove perfectly. Almost scary in that sense

That's actually kinda funny.

 

However, I DO hate when I'm driving through town and a friend happens to see me, so they either tailgate or try to do stupid stuff like beep/try to speed around me. They think it's hilarious but I find it to be pretty immature, I grew out of that sh*t after several close calls. I never got caught by police doing hooligan things, but a lot of times they showed up seconds after I stopped. For example I hit 135 down the highway a few months ago and when I passed by there again the next day, there were cops waiting on the grass with their radar detectors. Never doing that again.

 

On occasion I have the urge to hit full boost which usually results in massive wheel spin. But due to my location and circumstances, I'd rather try to save some MPGs.

[Lurch]

 

never got caught by police doing hooligan things, but a lot of times they showed up seconds after I stopped. For example I hit 135 down the highway a few months ago and when I passed by there again the next day, there were cops waiting on the grass with their radar detectors. Never doing that again.

This seems to happen to me all the time. After a few days, I'll always start to notice a higher presence of police on my route. I work all manner of hours and drive a ridiculously loud car so I'm guessing a lot of it could be noise complaints.

Edited October 11, 2013 by Lurch

[Strengthcamp]

My exhaust pretty loud too but it's nothing in comparison to the fart can civics around here, so I'm not too worried about that. However, I have straight pipes and the way it's configured the exhaust makes an extremely loud backfire on occasion, and I'm just anticipating day it happens next to a cop. It really sucks living in a state that requires emissions testing, especially when running catless.

[jpm1]

cool story of a 92 years dude that got his truck for free cause he was at the right place at the right moment

http://www.bradenton.com/2013/08/08/4649915/rubonia-92-year-old-gets-new-ford.html

[Mega]

A shot my photographer made for my automotive website (we are preparing a face/off between Integrale Evo and Escort Cosworth).

 

[Cursed]

Nice shot, I thought it was a screenshot from a next gen racing game at first.

[Outcast]

I have to top up the engine oil in my Porsche, it's gone way down and drivers manual says I shouldn't drive it at that point lest I risk damaging the engine. I'm taking another car to pick up some oil at the garage then I'm going to come home and try to fill it up myself. I would take it to the Porsche dealership but it's a Sunday and it's as good a day as any to man the f*ck up and try adding my own oil for once.

 

I've got the drivers manual out and several go-fers standing by for emotional and mental support. Wish me luck.

 

XD

Edited November 3, 2013 by Outcast

[Lurch]

Boy, you disappoint me.

Edited November 3, 2013 by Lurch

[Outcast]

Just got home with a 4L can of Mobil1 5W-50. I studied the manual intensely and had several of my people do the same. I am ready to top up my oil. Gotta start somewhere, right Charlie?

 

EDIT: Great success! Bring on the next DIY task!

Edited November 3, 2013 by Outcast

[epoxi]

I am enjoying my new Celica (too busy to post pics though, sorry y'all), but the rear discs need replacing.

 

Garages are giving me silly quotes of £200 fitted for budget discs and pads, on eBay you can buy Mintex ones (including pads) for £63 delivered and I am seriously considering doing it myself.

 

Unfortunately I have a silly gravel driveway, so will have to find some car park to do the actual swap, and having moved away from home I have literally no tools yet other than an emergency jack, a screwdriver and half a can of lube.

 

What is the full arsenal of tools I could potentially need to do the install swiftly and properly, and what are the risks of me screwing up (e.g. taking the wheel off to find seized bolts, or generally messing up the job)? Given I would be replacing the rear brakes and I'd have to have the handbrake off, is it sufficient to have the car in gear and some blocks in front of front tyres when jacked up?

Edited November 4, 2013 by epoxi

[sivispacem]

Is your gravel drive flat? If so, a couple of wooden planks and axle stands would mean you didn't have to find anywhere else to park.

You'll most likely need, for disks and pads:

• A tyre iron (duh)- I've got a cheap extendible one that was about £6 on Amazon and is perfectly adequate- certainly much better than the ones that tend to come with cars.
• A socket set. A budget 40-piece jobbie should be absolutely fine (again, I paid about six quid on Amazon for a cheap set).
• A ratchet driver with a selection of Torx, Hex, Phillips and Flat-blade heads and a flexible extension. I bought a driver from Maplin which came with the Phillips, Flat-blade and some Hex heads, and then bough a set of Torx and Hex security bits from Amazon as quite a lot of car producers have started using security bits to stop people from easily nicking things off cars.
• Two axle stands.
• A trolley jack.
• A piston tool. Alternatively, a small pipe wrench will probably do.
• PB Blaster penetrating spray (fnar)
• A stick of "Blue" Loctite 242 thread locker (you probably won't need this per se but it's always useful to have).
• Bungee cords.
• Copper grease.
• Bricks to chock the front wheels with.

Disks are very easy to change. In summary:

• Make sure you've got all the parts you need.
• Park up on the flat, chock the front wheels with a brick either side so you aren't going to roll anywhere, car in first gear, handbrake on.
• Jack up the car and put the rear axles on the axle stands.
• Take off the rear wheels.
• Remove handbrake.
• Loosen the calliper bolts. You'll probably need PB Blaster or another penetrating lubricant for this (don't use WD40 as it's sh*t). You might need to leave it for 10 minutes.
• Take off the calliper and bungee cord it to any bit of the suspension which means the hose isn't under tension.
• Take off the calliper carriers if applicable.
• Remove disk bolts. Again, might need a bit of help from PB Blaster. See #4 if it doesn't work immediately.
• Copper grease the hub.
• Bolt on new disk, including Loctite on the bolts.
• Bolt callipers back on, including Loctite on bolts
• Re-attach wheels (don't Loctite these bolts), put handbrake back on, lift off axle stands.

Pads vary from vehicle to vehicle, some have calliper carriers and some just mount on a bracket. This means that sometimes the pads are in the calliper, sometimes they're in the carrier and the calliper slots over them. Generally, if you want to avoid having to remove the calliper and re-bleed the brakes then, between #7 and #8, and assuming that you don't have calliper carriers with the pads held in them:

• Remove retaining springs from inside of calliper.
• Remove calliper pins that hold in the pads in place (most just pull straight out)- pads should just fall out.
• Use the brake piston tool or pipe wrench to push the piston back in as far as you can. If it doesn't go back in easily, an old trick is to remove the cap for the brake fluid reservoir.
• Copper grease the backs of the new pads and any anti-squeal plates.
• Slot new pads into place and re-insert pins.
• Re-attach retaining springs.

If your car is a Gen 7 (I think based on previous conversations it is?) then this thread gives a guide on things like the retaining springs, where the anti-squeal plates are ect. I don't know specifics on how far to torque up the bolts as it varies from bolt to bolt and model to model but it's usually around 100Nm.

Edited November 4, 2013 by sivispacem

[epoxi]

Thanks! Doing a quick Google on all the equipment, it's all surprisingly cheap (£20 for axle stands, £20 for trolley jack), it's as if I could buy an entire workshop for the price of one garage visit

 

The gravel is flat but I would shy away from it though: it's deep and the area is covered in shade, plus is often dirty and wet. I could probably ask the farm next door to use their paved area.

 

Funnily enough, that Celica topic you posted was mostly what made me think about doing the job myself in the first place.

 

6 - Socket set

7 - Ratchet driver

22 - Axle stands

24 - trolley jack

4 - G-clamp

6 - Generic penetrating spray (can't find UK seller for PB blaster)

7 - Loctite Threadlocker

6 - Bungee cord

5 - Copper grease

£87 in total, so round it off to £100 assuming I don't bother shopping around for every single item.

When you say 100Nm of torque I assume you mean on the bolts attaching the wheels to the car?

Given the weather I am still tempted to chicken out though (maybe spend £40 on petrol and drive home where there is a reasonably priced garage).

Edited November 4, 2013 by epoxi

[Ronnyboy]

I say man up and go for it. Nothing beats torquing, grunting, and then successfully replacing parts on your car. The sense of accomplishment and enjoyment can't be beat. Bonus points for doing it in the cold like my Wisconsin buddies and I, especially when it snows.

[Lurch]

Rear calipers can be a bit of ??? factor. Some pistons can be pressed back in with a c clamp on an old brake pad (or your own hands if your big and manly enough) just like the fronts. Some are threaded and have a special tool that goes on the end a 3/8" drive ratchet. Those are easy if you have the tool but if you ever thread them out to the point where they come out, then you're pretty much f*cked as they're next to impossible to get back in.

[sivispacem]

I think the vast majority use push-in types. I know Toyota use the threaded ones but don't know who else does, I've certainly never seen them before. Though it goes without saying, don't try forcing a threaded piston in with a g-clamp or pipe wrench as you'll f*ck the entire calliper and have to replace it.

[Cursed]

I'm feeling a bit inadequate in the works car park. 

Edited April 30, 2020 by Cursed

[Outcast]

Some asshole stole my rear license plate.

[jelly]

Nothing in this world makes me angrier than road salt. Nothing.

 

Not the mass surveillance, not world hunger, not war, not typhoons and flooding.

 

Road salt.

 

Some public official state terrorist somewhere wakes up every day and resolutely decides to destroy the entire rolling stock of a city. Every single day. This man, as far as I'm concerned, is Satan.

 

Yeah, I had to scrap my beloved old car today. No, there was nothing wrong with it.. except it was rusting from the inside out. Thanks, you f*cking slimes. If I ever meet these people I'm afraid of what I'll do to them.

[Lurch]

The pros of living somewhere where it doesn't snow a lot. There's no way my E28 would be so rust free if it hadn't spent its whole life here in the south. Older cars like that just don't have such extensive anti-rust measures as newer cars have.

[ChrissDaMan]

Some asshole stole my rear license plate.

Man, this enoys me to hear (or read) I'm geting so tired of these people, In my neighburhood a few years ago, people were stealing gas out of the cars, it happned to my Saab to when my mom owned it! Such a shame...

 

 

Anyways

 

I'm thinking about buying a new car, i have 6 in mine

 

 

Alfa Romeo GTV

Fiat Barchetta

Audi Coupe

BMW E36

Mercedes-Benz 300CE

Toyota Celica

 

Anyone that have any experience with any these cars? any recomendations? for exemple about the BMW E36, which is the one to get?

Or do you recomend any other car (2-doors in mind) with a €2,000 budget!

Edited November 19, 2013 by Chris CJ Jakobsson