Car Talk Topic

[Original Light]

Not that I don't like super cars, but would anyone here like to talk about some American muscle?

 

[Illousion]

 

Not that I don't like super cars, but would anyone here like to talk about some American muscle?

Yeah, let's.

[Lurch]

 

I want to make around 230-250whp and I figure a small turbo build would do the trick.

That's quite an expensive proposition for a KA24. The standard pistons and rods aren't up to scratch when it comes to holding boost in the quantities required for 250+bhp, so for ~250whp (around 300bhp) you'd probably need forged internals. If your going for that kind of power, it would be much easier to swap in a SR20, which will make around 300bhp at stage 2+ on stock internals.

After going to a drift even Saturday and seeing yet another SR20-DET (black top) grenade itself, I'm convinced that they're junk. There was a 400 hp KA-T that actually held together (who knows for how long). As usual though, I was most impressed with the RB25's and the LSX car. There was one S13 with a IUZ-FE from a Lexus GS/SC/LS400 adapted to an SR20 trans. . Was pretty impressed with it as well. I know one guy swapping a VQ35 into his S14 as well that I can't wait to see. 300 hp is plenty in a car like that.

 

1UZ-FE car

 

One RB25

 

 

Another RB-25

 

 

And another

 

 

SR20 car. Didn't even last the whole day before it had a knock. Metal shavings were in the exhaust tip as well.

 

 

400 hp KA-T

 

 

Iron block LSX car. This thing is violently powerful. Had a th350 and he just kept it in 2nd and feathered the throttle. Swapping a T56 in right now.

 

 

He blew both tires off while I was in it.

 

[Mr.Funny12]

Those pictures look great. A guy in the next town over from me builds and races 240's. He mostly sticks to KA's but apparently just started an sr build. Like you, I don't like them much either.

 

How much HP do you think a stock rb25 would put out?

 

 

[Lurch]

Stock RB25's are around 250. 300 is pretty easy to reach. I've got friends that had ones with 350+ whp. One was close to 400 whp on 14 psi. 300 at the crank is still plenty enough and reliable at that level.

[Mega]

Not that I don't like super cars, but would anyone here like to talk about some American muscle?

Yeah, let's.

Rofl Hahahahahaha! Fantastic.

 

 

[*MURDOC*]

Hey, it goes like hell.

[Garfield 2]

It looks really similar to the US-spec Golf... (Rabbit I think?).

Is there a connection?

[*MURDOC*]

Apparently, it's based on a Simca design.

 

 

There's a dude around here with a GLH that's actually really nice and also surprisingly quick.

 

People always think it's a Golf, especially because of the visual changes he has done.

[Lurch]

Early ones did use golf/rabbit drivetrains.

[Kifflom112]

Am I the only one who just loves the LED lights on the new 650i Gran Coupe?

They just look really awesome. Before this year, cars headlights were just there, who cares, but now they just look really nice now that a lot are LED.

[Illousion]

 

Am I the only one who just loves the LED lights on the new 650i Gran Coupe?

They just look really awesome. Before this year, cars headlights were just there, who cares, but now they just look really nice now that a lot are LED.

I love the look of the whole car. It's a gorgeous piece of machinery.

---

My little Rio is soon three months old, so last week I ordered a new förmånsbil. Got something a little bigger (Golf size) and ordered the new KIA Cee'd with a 1.6 Diesel and 6-speed. One of the most boring cars I've ever driven, but other than that a huge step-up from the Rio. Alot nicer interior, more features and gadgets (4x Pwr windows, mirrors, dual-zone climate, way better stereo and cruise control). It's still a soul-less KIA that's hard to really love, but as cheap transportation it's going to be great.

 

 

 

I'm also looking for something to have as a hobby/weekend driver on the side. Found this '75 Chrysler Town & Country yesterday, original shape with a 440. That rust-hole on the front fender looked scary though.

Edited October 1, 2012 by Illousion

[Lurch]

Man, those kia guys have you stuck driving some sh*t cars, man. Would be nice if they had at least something halfway interesting like Hyndai has with the Genesis coupe.

 

I like the New Yorker though. At least it's a proper, fullsize, bigass boat with a big block instead of the half assed downsized sh*t that's kinda big but not really.

Edited October 2, 2012 by Lurch

[Burbalade]

I'm liking the Chrysler. I'd prefer an LTD or Caprice wagon, but that's just me.

 

That rust hole may be a hint at what's underneath though. Have you checked it out yet?

[Lurch]

 

US E36 M3's are still one of your best bang for the buck BMW's ever here. US S50's and S52's aren't necessarily bad motors, they just aren't as packed full of goodies like euro S50's (Doule VANOS, ITB's, and everything else Sivi mentioned). Still the price has dropped to the point where they're very affordable (7500 is common for a good one but I've seen them as low as $5500).Not too bad of a price for 240 hp, and a decent chassis/steering/suspension/brakes/interior/etc. Probably not as cheap as Euro M3's in the UK, but whatever.

 

Also going to the Chase the Dragon hillclimb this weekend. Pics to follow.

I'd rather buy the 328i. That's just my logic though. In my opinion the US E36 M3 is just not worth it... (unless you swap the engine for the EU S50 or the E46 S54B32)

So I drove my friend's E36 M3 saturday and remembered this. After driving it and several of my friends 328is', I can safely say there's really not much comparison. The M3 is just a totally different animal. Amazing engine aside, the brakes are violently powerful. I really want one. I'm in love.

 

For comparison sake all were 5 speeds, one 328is was bone stock, the other had a chip, bilstein pss9 rear coilovers, GC race front coilovers, staggered 18's (18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 rear) on Hancook V12's. The M3 was sedan and was slightly gutted, had a chip, a carbon intake, an aluminum flywheel, a stage 3 cluch and PPS9's on stock DS2's with 225 fronts and 245 rears.

Edited October 2, 2012 by Lurch

[mr quick]

 

Can't see my baby til saturday :'( It's not the one pictured, it's identical but in gray

[*MURDOC*]

Those are probably some of the only 3-spoke wheels that I like.

 

Most others are barfworthy.

[mr quick]

 

Those are probably some of the only 3-spoke wheels that I like.

 

Most others are barfworthy.

Mine only has three spoke winter tires. Searching the turbo club for summer ones too

Current summer ones are these

Edited October 3, 2012 by jaysteels

[Lurch]

What the hell are summer and winter wheels? I've heard of summer and winter tires, which both of those pics look to have all seasons.

[Burbalade]

He said tires, but I'm assuming he'll be mounting Summer tires to one set of wheels and winter tires to the other set.

[sivispacem]

What the hell are summer and winter wheels?

In recent years its become popular to keep a full set (4/5 wheels) of steel or cheaper alloy wheels, often smaller diameter with more tyre and narrower, in the event of heavy snow or ice. The reduced rotational mass improves responsiveness in adverse conditions, narrow wheels and tyres cut through the snow to find solid ground below, and if they're cheap steels or bargain basement alloys it either doesn't matter if, or they are easy to fix if, they get wrecked on a hidden obstruction.

[Lurch]

What the hell are summer and winter wheels?

In recent years its become popular to keep a full set (4/5 wheels) of steel or cheaper alloy wheels, often smaller diameter with more tyre and narrower, in the event of heavy snow or ice. The reduced rotational mass improves responsiveness in adverse conditions, narrow wheels and tyres cut through the snow to find solid ground below, and if they're cheap steels or bargain basement alloys it either doesn't matter if, or they are easy to fix if, they get wrecked on a hidden obstruction.

We don't do that here. We don't get much in the way of low snow, ice, or super low temps. If you've got low tread wear tires (extreme summers, drag radials, dot slicks, regular slicks, etc), you'll take them off in the winter and store them indoors as they'll crack if they're stored below freezing. Other than that, you can run most any normal summer tire here year round.

[mr quick]

In Norway you're obliged by law to use these in snowy or icey conditions

[jelly]

What the hell are summer and winter wheels?

In recent years its become popular to keep a full set (4/5 wheels) of steel or cheaper alloy wheels, often smaller diameter with more tyre and narrower, in the event of heavy snow or ice. The reduced rotational mass improves responsiveness in adverse conditions, narrow wheels and tyres cut through the snow to find solid ground below, and if they're cheap steels or bargain basement alloys it either doesn't matter if, or they are easy to fix if, they get wrecked on a hidden obstruction.

We don't do that here. We don't get much in the way of low snow, ice, or super low temps. If you've got low tread wear tires (extreme summers, drag radials, dot slicks, regular slicks, etc), you'll take them off in the winter and store them indoors as they'll crack if they're stored below freezing. Other than that, you can run most any normal summer tire here year round.

Which is why those hilarious winter pile-ups on Youtube are a uniquely American phenomenon.

[Lurch]

 

What the hell are summer and winter wheels?

In recent years its become popular to keep a full set (4/5 wheels) of steel or cheaper alloy wheels, often smaller diameter with more tyre and narrower, in the event of heavy snow or ice. The reduced rotational mass improves responsiveness in adverse conditions, narrow wheels and tyres cut through the snow to find solid ground below, and if they're cheap steels or bargain basement alloys it either doesn't matter if, or they are easy to fix if, they get wrecked on a hidden obstruction.

We don't do that here. We don't get much in the way of low snow, ice, or super low temps. If you've got low tread wear tires (extreme summers, drag radials, dot slicks, regular slicks, etc), you'll take them off in the winter and store them indoors as they'll crack if they're stored below freezing. Other than that, you can run most any normal summer tire here year round.

Which is why those hilarious winter pile-ups on Youtube are a uniquely American phenomenon.

I was mainly referring to here in the southeast US, where snow itself is a rarity.

[jelly]

What the hell are summer and winter wheels?

In recent years its become popular to keep a full set (4/5 wheels) of steel or cheaper alloy wheels, often smaller diameter with more tyre and narrower, in the event of heavy snow or ice. The reduced rotational mass improves responsiveness in adverse conditions, narrow wheels and tyres cut through the snow to find solid ground below, and if they're cheap steels or bargain basement alloys it either doesn't matter if, or they are easy to fix if, they get wrecked on a hidden obstruction.

We don't do that here. We don't get much in the way of low snow, ice, or super low temps. If you've got low tread wear tires (extreme summers, drag radials, dot slicks, regular slicks, etc), you'll take them off in the winter and store them indoors as they'll crack if they're stored below freezing. Other than that, you can run most any normal summer tire here year round.

Which is why those hilarious winter pile-ups on Youtube are a uniquely American phenomenon.

I was mainly referring to here in the southeast US, where snow itself is a rarity.

Well, going by those hilarious pile-ups we see on TV every winter, I'm pretty sure they do the same thing in the north.

[Illousion]

So uh guys, I've bought an '82 Mercedes 280SE.

[mr quick]

So uh guys, I've bought an '82 Mercedes 280SE.

You're f*cking epic.

[Lurch]

So uh guys, I've bought an '82 Mercedes 280SE.

Hells yeah.

[Illousion]

I don't know about that. It's a real piece of junk, 280 000 miles, some small rust spots and a dented right rear door. But I got it as a trade in at work, I just couldn't pass it up. Cost me a whopping 7000 SEK (~$1050, ~810 Euros, ~£650). Passes inspection, tax-exempt (older than 30 years), runs and drives. Don't know what I'm going to do with it, but hey, a cheap car is a cheap car.