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Car Talk Topic


Mega
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Have any of you guys seen the slammed cars.

Basically the wheels sticking out and the car lowered. Been into them for a while now and I think there sick. Here are some pictures

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If you just type in 'Slammed Cars' on Google you are bound to find some awesome cars. Sorry if the pictures are too big.

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Some cars can pull it off, some cant. That Camaro (I think?) looks monstrously sh*te. The S13 looks pretty good though.

 

Never been that great a fan of slammed cars, to be honest. In my view, even if they're on airbags, they're a bit pointless and in many cases they don't even look great. Nice, healthy static drop for me, every day of the week. I much prefer the racer look to the full-on slammed/stanced look- for instance (using VW Corrados as a demonstration, because they're awesome)

 

Bad

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Better

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Best

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I love it...but that is besides the point.

 

 

 

I hate slammed cars...to a point. Dropping a car low for the point of functionality makes sense. That race prepped Corrado in the 3rd pic Sivis posted, as well as the 2nd pic, are well done. I am for looks as well but when you lower a car to obscene levels that you actually cause problems in just the basic use and running order of the vehicle of the car, it gets a bit silly. An extreme example:

 

user posted image

 

When you actually lower the car and add a bit of camber for the sake of handling, all is good. When you toss the wheels so far inward you start to really look silly as well as limit the functional use of the car. Example (look at that contact strip on the tire):

 

user posted image

 

I can't find the logic in anything beyond -3.5° camber in a car designed for the street.




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You really love the Corrado don't ya? tounge.gif

I do. To the day, the most bad-ass car I ever owned. I will own another at some point, probably with a 2.0 20v on throttle bodies or something similar as a track car.

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What car do you currently drive, sivis?

B7 A4 2.0 TDi Quattro Avant, in black. Every option (including RS6 wheels) ticked by the original buyer, now with an added AmD remap. I've got a picture lurking around somewhere; I don't think I've posted a picture of it since I swapped my old '05 in for the newer one. Plus a Triumph TT600 race bike (that's currently in bits), an old Yamaha Super Tenere which is a winter hack, and the missus has a Mk5 Golf company car. I've ummed and ahhed about getting rid of the Audi for about 18 months now, but never got round to doing it. As much as I love cars, what I really need at the moment is a safe, well equipped motorway mile-muncher- if I wanna go fast, I'll take the bike or go to a track with some mates and get them to put me on their track insurance.

Edited by sivispacem

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Going low and being limited by tiny tire sizes is extremely gay. That seems to be the common thing here. For instance there's this sh*tty slammed E36 M3 vert in town. He runs 205's stretched to hell on 19x9's. Smaller than stock tire size (which would be 225 fronts and 245 rears). So it's a step back from stock. I'd rather be progressing performance than hindering it.

 

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Basically if you want to go low and fit big meats and just overall be functional, you either need to roll, pull, or cut fenders (and throw some type of flare on I suppose) depending on how extreme you go with tire choice.

 

Rolled with 255's

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pulled with 285's

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cut and flares with 13" wide slicks

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Edited by Lurch

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pulled with 285's

user posted image

Freakin' badass. I'm hoping a seriously worked over S38?

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Nah. It's DSP class SOLO stuff. They don't allow engine swaps that didn't originally come in the car. So all the E30's are running more or less stock M20B25's. Most other things are still allowed. Removing as much excess weight as possible, plenty of suspension work is allowed to a point, brake work, body modifications to a point. Then they're all (at least the competitive ones) usually running 275/35R15's or 285/30R18's.

 

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Also S38 swaps aren't really the most practical thing. Figure $3500 for a good takeout engine, figure another 3k for the matching close ratio g280, a grand for a good clutch, another couple grand for a standalone so you don't have to use ancient motronic management, another grand for a header and the rest of the exhaust (if not more depending on what you get). Realistically, it cost over 10k just in parts to do the swap. And then you've got a very heavy engine that adds quite a bit of weight to the front end of a little E30. It's basically an M30 with another cam and twice the valves. That's a heavy engine.

Edited by Lurch

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Now this is a long shot. A friend linked this picture and asked "wonder what happened to this car after the movie was shot".

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After a quick search through the swedish DMV's database reveals that this car was last inspected in 2001, where it failed on some bogus count. It had, when inspected done 85000km (52800 miles). Now, the owner of the car resides in Kalix, way up north where this friend who linked the picture lives. He recalls seeing the car driven around town by an older gentleman and looking mint. From the looks of things it was sold brand new in Sweden. It has a 351 Windsor and a tow hitch.

 

It's a long shot, but I've found the owners phone number so I'm going to give him a call tomorrow and see what kind of shape the car is in and if it's for sale. turn.gif

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Dreaming of California, where the sun never sets.

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Well it was way back in April when I passed my driving test and I said I would feature regularly on this part of the forums. Unfortunately, I didn't get my car until early August so I didn't really have anything to say in that time.

However, I now have my car and am ready to participate fully. I've got a light blue Renault Clio Expression (second hand obviously) and I am really happy with it. Past couple of days I've just been driving round town to get a feel for everything. Only issue I have is that it really does struggle to get going when I'm doing about 60 mph which can sometimes make overtaking a pain in the arse (but that's to be expected from a 1.2 I guess). Oh yeah, the bass in the speakers is messed up a little and the fan doesn't work but aside from that, it's a good little car. Anyone else have or own a Clio? Would be nice to get some tips on how to get the best out of it.

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Los Santos Pedestrian

I don't own a Clio, probably because I live in the U.S. Also, I'm 13.

 

However, my probable first car will either be my dad's rusty 2001 Jeep Liberty, or his other car, which is a 2003 Audi allroad quattro.

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Well, got that camaro but the thing is, it wasn't for me. My brother will take it for the LS1 and the 6-speed and sell the shell. He will then sell his 240sx too me and use the money to buy himself an 89 240sx clean shell. He ends up with a LS1 240 and I have a normal 240 with a 5 speed for my first car. Everybody is happy.

 

Now, I don't know if I should just put a little money into the 240 to make it fun while I save for another car, or try to fix and repair it and keep it. She's alittle rusty on the bottom. Common for this car.

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She's alittle rusty on the bottom. Common for this car.

More like common for up north. I never see rusty S13's. Even the sh*ttiest ones on the road are usually pretty rust free down here.

 

The LSX 240's are starting to pop up around here. There were 2 at the last drift event I was at.

 

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Not sure what kind of sanctioned legal controlled drift fun can be had in your area but drifting venues are starting to get big here. A stock 5 speed 240 can be a lot of fun. This guy kicks everyone's ass on a stock KA

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As for your car, if the rust isn't too bad, fix it up. You can always SR20 or RB swap it in the future. Tons of them around here.

 

SR20 red top

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RB25's are common as chips now.

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Edited by Lurch

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Aren't rb's on the heavy side compared to Ka's or SR's? SR20 would be nice, but I'm thinking about just sticking to the KA24. I want to make around 230-250whp and I figure a small turbo build would do the trick.

 

I'm most likely not going to be doing much upon getting it other than fixing small problems. The speedo doesn't work, the ebrake doesn't work(or is really weak), I'm going to put the back seat back in and see if I can fix some of the rust.

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MMmmmm.. the newest Ford Fusion/Mondeo(EU) gives me sexual pleasure.

 

user posted image

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Aren't rb's on the heavy side compared to Ka's or SR's?

For sure. Straight 6's are inherently heavy by design. But I also think it's probably the best engine Nissan ever made. Incredibly tough and able to make some big power and not kill itself doing so. If you wanted a reliable 300 hp motor (lets say whp figures in the 250+ range), it's the way to go. One thing I've noticed at the drift events, is they can keep it in 2nd gear and not have to bang off the rev limiter all day to keep it sideways. KA's can't. I've seen a lot of SR20's having enough problems to make me not want one over an RB. At the very least, you can find some of those parts at junkyards as SR20's came in Infiniti G20's.

 

uYW1Olw.png

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I want to make around 230-250whp and I figure a small turbo build would do the trick.

That's quite an expensive proposition for a KA24. The standard pistons and rods aren't up to scratch when it comes to holding boost in the quantities required for 250+bhp, so for ~250whp (around 300bhp) you'd probably need forged internals. If your going for that kind of power, it would be much easier to swap in a SR20, which will make around 300bhp at stage 2+ on stock internals.

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Man I've just been cruising round all day driving on different roads and pretty much just having fun in my car. Just took it out tonight and found an empty car park. Ended up just doing random sh*t, reversing all over the place and the like. Gonna start going to the same place with a few mates at night and start drifting/J-turning and stuff. A quick question, any idea how much a sub woofer would effect acceleration?

 

I'll try and post some pics of my car up tomorrow.

 

E: Anyone know any good books or websites for car/gear head newbies? Want to start learning more about my engine etc. and how to get the best out of cars, work on them myself and stuff.

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I want to make around 230-250whp and I figure a small turbo build would do the trick.

That's quite an expensive proposition for a KA24. The standard pistons and rods aren't up to scratch when it comes to holding boost in the quantities required for 250+bhp, so for ~250whp (around 300bhp) you'd probably need forged internals. If your going for that kind of power, it would be much easier to swap in a SR20, which will make around 300bhp at stage 2+ on stock internals.

Well, my brothers car that I'm getting just so happens to have alot of internals edone already. I remember him telling me about new pistons and rods and other stuff. He was building the engine to be able to handle around 450 hp.Then he decided to throw it all away for an ls1 I wasn't too into cars at that point, I'll ask him and see exactly what the car has done.

 

I would never just turbo an engine haha, thats a really good way to kill a car.

 

The only thing that concerns me about the KA thats in the car I'm getting is the miles. I know Japanese cars run for ever but this car having over 220,000 miles spooks me abit.

 

Not saying I'd want this swap, but does anyone know anything about lt1's. A kid I knew had an LT1 swapped Porshe 944. The thing was fun when I went for a ride in it. I know they're heavy and probably not worth it but I don't know anything about them

 

 

@ochy:Are those renaults rwd or fwd?

Edited by Mr.Funny12
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A quick question, any idea how much a sub woofer would effect acceleration?

A 12" sub will on average cut your 0-60 time in half.

 

@turbo build conversation: Starting to sound like a $350 junk yard LS motor is not only more bad ass, but might be cheaper/easier than building up a Nissan motor.

Edited by Burbalade
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Not saying I'd want this swap, but does anyone know anything about lt1's. A kid I knew had an LT1 swapped Porshe 944. The thing was fun when I went for a ride in it. I know they're heavy and probably not worth it but I don't know anything about them

 

 

The first LSX S13 I posted had an iron block LQ4 which is around 480ish lbs. (iron block aluminum heads). An LT1 would be about the same. Aluminum block LS1's are around 400 even and down into the 380's for the bigger versions. I don't think you can really get the easy power out of one that you can an LSX. That S13's LQ4 was pretty basic (heads milled to LQ9 specs, LS1 intake, a mild cam, etc.) and was making 342 whp.

Edited by Lurch

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Its a matter of weight worth the HP I guess haha. I'm not going to worry about engine work for a little while. The car has coilovers, sway bars and some other suspenion work. It also has internals done too. I'll post all the specs with the pics when I get it. I need to fix little bugs before I move to more expensive stuff.

 

The paint on it is old. It was originaly red and painted over black a while ago, The car is all black except for the front right fender is starting to peel back through. I'll most likely just leave the car as it is but I was thinking of maybe doing a clean primer for a while.

 

@Burb: Trust me if I could get an LS engine I would. Maybe they're more common near you guys but in the middle of new jersey your best bet is buying a camaro or firebird and thats alot of money.

 

 

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A quick question, any idea how much a sub woofer would effect acceleration?

A 12" sub will on average cut your 0-60 time in half.

 

@turbo build conversation: Starting to sound like a $350 junk yard LS motor is not only more bad ass, but might be cheaper/easier than building up a Nissan motor.

Well that's disappointing. Guess I'll just have to rely on the standard speakers then.

 

@Mr Funny

FWD

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A quick question, any idea how much a sub woofer would effect acceleration?

A 12" sub will on average cut your 0-60 time in half.

Well that's disappointing. Guess I'll just have to rely on the standard speakers then.

I am not sure about the level of sarcasm in this conversation so I'll just say this.

 

A subwoofer and associated paraphernalia weighs a few kilos so almost comparable to fluctuations in your own body weight. If you don't feel like you need to go on a diet to reduce your track times, you don't need to throw out your sound system either.

 

Hell, a full tank of fuel is several times heavier than a 12" subwoofer and enclosure.

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They can get pretty heavy once you include the box it's in. The sub itself doesn't weigh much at all. A non-issue in a DD though. Unless you're tracking/autocrossing it, you probably won't ever notice it.

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This seems like the most fitting place to tell you all I beat a Civic while blasting Danger Zone on the radio, on my way to the shop to paint the new wheels I just picked up. I'm guessing his girlfriend wasn't as impressed as he had hoped she'd be.

 

f*ck yeah America.

 

And of course, the new wheels:

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