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How to remove coat from dumbbell?


turbocharger

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turbocharger

Hello folks,

I have recently bought dumbbells and I have a small problem. They're coated with something (nickel, I suppose), so when the weights rub the handle, it crumbles into small particles and they're everywhere so it's really annoying.

My question is: how can safely I remove that plating/coat at home? Which acid or thing should I use to rinse it off? Thanks.

 

(sorry for huuge pics, luckily they downsize themselves in a post)

NTndKCs.jpg

4kzljcC.jpg

Edited by Turbocharged Prelude
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plasti dip that sh*t

or

duct tape that sh*t

or

put on a breathing mask, go outside and sand down that sh*t

L71cGcK.png

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GTA3Rockstar

Paint thinner or acetone might work.

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ppNaW16.png

 

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turbocharger

Yea I put duct tape on that sh*t, but it's hard to put the screw on/off (the screw that keeps the weights from going jiggle jiggle), so it's still sh*t

Thank you all for your input, I'll consider one of these methods.

Edited by Turbocharged Prelude
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Just a small coating to make the weights look stylish enough to buy and to protect the raw steel from rusting/oxidizing. I would soak them in Acetone or Mineral Spirits for acouple days, should weaken the coating enough to peel off relatively easy. Unless you know someone with a sandblaster?

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Sandblast or chemical peel like Gunny said. Plastidip or duct tape would make it difficult for adjustable weights to be...adjusted.

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4XEtraA.jpg

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turbocharger

@ryan_J : Oh, thank you, I'm flattered.

@GunWrath and @Moonshield: Sanding would be ideal, but I have no conditions for that. I'll try with weakening it with acetone and then peeling it off.

@Coat. - Screw it mate, I have to do it. It's just that... you got to the wrong place in the wrong time. Thanks for the link. Love the username. :D

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Where´s your calli man? Time to start using those dumbbells.

I got 3 pairs of those with black rubber coating on the plates. With metal plates the locks tend to self-open.

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The easiest way to remove nickel plating is with a fairly strong sulfuric acid solution, say 50% with about 5% of glycerine added as a fining agent. If you want to use electrolysis, make the work the anode in a weaker sulfuric acid solution, about 10%. You will also need to add a chloride salt (called an anode corrodant) to destroy the passivation. A few percent of table salt will suffice. Pay attention to the work because you will get pitting by this method if you are not careful. Hope this helps.

Don't risk your health, take it (them) to a metal working shop. Let your fingers do the walking first.
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Just a small coating to make the weights look stylish enough to buy and to protect the raw steel from rusting/oxidizing. I would soak them in Acetone or Mineral Spirits for acouple days, should weaken the coating enough to peel off relatively easy. Unless you know someone with a sandblaster?

 

Need a laser blaster!

 

 

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plasti dip that sh*t

 

This, just removing the coat will make the weights super prone to rusting, it'll also give you a reasonable gripping surface and add negligible weight to the weights (PD isn't very heavy). You can get Plastidip in either cans to be painted on or in spray cans, though from what I've read the spray cans don't last as long as you would think they would, at that though in the application I use PD for it usually requires 10-15 coats whereas this will require a lot less.

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plasti dip that sh*t

 

This, just removing the coat will make the weights super prone to rusting, it'll also give you a reasonable gripping surface and add negligible weight to the weights (PD isn't very heavy). You can get Plastidip in either cans to be painted on or in spray cans, though from what I've read the spray cans don't last as long as you would think they would, at that though in the application I use PD for it usually requires 10-15 coats whereas this will require a lot less.

 

I plasti dip everything, one can lasted me through 8 cellphone covers, 3 airsoft guns, 3 model cars, a lot of cocking about, and a sanded down wheel arch - which is still on

L71cGcK.png

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turbocharger

@Graven: I'm so looking forward to getting them, I've been working out few nights, nothing much, but feels awesome already. Yeah, that makes sense, but we'll see.

@lil_weasel: Of course, man, thanks for looking out. Metal shop is the last stop if nothing else works.

@Senorita Miauuu: Hell no, these were 45$ per piece. It's way too much for 15 kg of iron if you ask me.

@The-King: Good point, I watched lots of videos about it, but wouldn't it peel off? I mean you can peel it off with bare hands, not to mention rubbing metal against metal. I dunno.
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@The-King: Good point, I watched lots of videos about it, but wouldn't it peel off? I mean you can peel it off with bare hands, not to mention rubbing metal against metal. I dunno.

 

Plastidip is made to add grip to tool handles (wrenches and the like) so it's meant to go through tons of wear and tear and be held, and used constantly. It's also fairly cheap and you can usually pick up a can for about five bucks or so at a hardware store, usually near the spraypaint.

Edited by The-King
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turbocharger

Okay, I've made my mind up. Tearing the sh*t off would expose the metal to oxidation, and it certainly will oxide, sooner or later. I decided to take duct tape, as a temporary solution. First, I took cellophane and wrapped the handle, then applied duct tape and heated it with a lighter, so thanks to duct tape's 'stretchability', it spread and catched around the handle nicely so it isn't hard to put the screw on/off. If the tape is wrapped properly (in direction in which you tighten the screw), without overlapping and a little bit of heating, it really helps solve the problem.

 

I may also give PlastiDip a shot sometime, but for now, duct tape will work just fine. Thank you all for your tips and help, it was a nice chat.

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