jnzooger Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 You don't necessarily need all that. For a fully cooled system, that's pretty close though. Though its not necessary to have multiple radiators for most setups. In the case of a radiator, size matters more than quantity. You can also get combined pump/reservoirs now. They do a fairly decent job. And not all reservoirs go into a drive bay. If fact, quite a few sit outside the case. There are even combined radiator/pump/reservoir systems out there that just sit on the top of your case and the hoses run through a hole in the back of the case. Now-a-days you can get motherboards that are designed for WC and have the chipset block integrated into the design. Same goes for videocards and RAM. There are also premodded cases that have the radiator and reservoir mounted in them. It makes it that much easier to do this stuff, but keep in mind that piecing it together is probably the easiest part. You are literally making the same cooling setup that a car uses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) I had to up the FSB voltage to 1.4v indeed. Stable at 1720 FSB, BSOD at 1800 FSB. Didn't try higher voltages yet. As of now, it's only my CPU getting too warm, so I'd only need extra cooling for that. That's why I was thinking about the h50. Figures it does a better job than my current Cooler Master V8. Which is setup like this (intake: 2x 120mm front. Exhaust: 1x 140mm on top, 1x 120mm in rear): Someone coach me in cable-management. Ultimately, my main goal of this OC was to run GTA better. Benchmark tells me there is absolutely no difference between my CPU at stock speed vs 3.6GHz. This means that either my RAM or GPU is bottle-necking, with the latter being the more probable one to be the sinner. Gonna have to try to OC that too... Edited July 3, 2010 by cornflakes4u Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlena Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 I had to up the FSB voltage to 1.4v indeed. Stable at 1720 FSB, BSOD at 1800 FSB. Didn't try higher voltages yet. As of now, it's only my CPU getting too warm, so I'd only need extra cooling for that. That's why I was thinking about the h50. Figures it does a better job than my current Cooler Master V8. Which is setup like this (intake: 2x 120mm front. Exhaust: 1x 140mm on top, 1x 120mm in rear): Someone coach me in cable-management. Ultimately, my main goal of this OC was to run GTA better. Benchmark tells me there is absolutely no difference between my CPU at stock speed vs 3.6GHz. This means that either my RAM or GPU is bottle-necking, with the latter being the more probable one to be the sinner. Gonna have to try to OC that too... Take out the hardware that causes the cable mess, reattach the cables after sorting it out, use the plastic things that came with your motherboard and get cables together. Note: I saw you had a red cable over the fan = No no, remove all cables from fans, what so ever, even though they're on top. Sort the Corsair main cables at ground > motherboard "wall" then attach it to the motherboard, if it's not long enough remove components as said, and figure out the two main cables to the motherboard so they're away from everything else. If I were you, get the Cosmos S Big Tower, it's enourmous and plenty of space, you can even drag your cables through the cabinet, having them between the chassis "wall" and the main case. Peak: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultraman1966 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Call me cynical but the amount he needs to spend to do the overclocking (new case and/or water cooling), he may as well save that for a future upgrade to i7 core... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) Awesome, Merlena. Thanks a lot for that guide. Am gonna try it out within the next couple of days. I just went from a huge Aplus Monolize to this tiny Antec 200, 'cause the fans started living their own lives. It greatly reduced temps. Mobo: 44c(!!) for instance. Do you think I can achieve the same temperatures as I have now, or even better with new fans in my Monolize? I loved that case for its huge space, and I think I can do the same as in the case you mentioned.@Ultraman, are you trying to be funny? Do you know what the cost of an i7 + mobo + RAM is? And when I want to OC that too, don't you think I need even better cooling? And who said anything about buying a complete water-cooling system... All I have to buy is the Corsair h50, which is a small upgrade. Edited July 3, 2010 by cornflakes4u Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Oh yeah for watercooling you need to decide which components will be on which loop. i.e. CPU and NB/SB on one loop and GPU and MOSFET on the other. It's really tricky stuff, and I'm so sketchy with that area of computers. H2O and the flow of electrons don't really gel together as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 I'd get that H50 if I were you, could be your gateway to a wonderful world of watercooled PCs. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) I'd get that H50 if I were you, could be your gateway to a wonderful world of watercooled PCs. Good luck... Are you referring to the Antec 200? If so, then order it online and save a ton. £33.99 at Misco.co.uk. I'm ordering it on monday and installing it on thursday. I also need 4 new 120mm case fans for intake and circulation. Got any recommendations? Is Noctua the way to go here too? Edited July 3, 2010 by cornflakes4u Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnzooger Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Oh yeah for watercooling you need to decide which components will be on which loop. i.e. CPU and NB/SB on one loop and GPU and MOSFET on the other. It's really tricky stuff, and I'm so sketchy with that area of computers. H2O and the flow of electrons don't really gel together as well... Good news it that it's either not really water, or it's de-ionized so it can't harm the parts if it leaks. Only problem you get there is if you run out of fluid and you overheat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 ^That is good news. Thought was scaring me too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 IMHO Noctua are the greatest. Silent, but still with high CFM values, they know how to keep a system cool. I love my Noctuas and can't wait for new products to be released by that fine company. Packaging and literature is absolutely top-notch, believe me, you won't be disappointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 Pending... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 (edited) Yo, I gotta' bunch of photos, they're around 700KB each, eight in total. How do I post 'em all at once. Photemon - Gotta send 'em all! Edited July 4, 2010 by _corTEC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Great. Upload multiple photos to Flick Cabin. You'll find the option on the bottom of this page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 (edited) Edited July 5, 2010 by _corTEC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 (edited) Yay! What resolution must pics be to not change the layout of this site? +cornflakes4u: If you have money to burn why not go underwater A.S.A.P.? I want the H50, but can't just buy it on a whim. I got responsibilities. Notice how I use my PCI-E lane 3 to keep that GPU away from my NB? I would buy an SLI capable mobo anyday just to have the option of positioning my GPU where I want!!! Edited July 5, 2010 by _corTEC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 Just press CTRL+MOUSEWHEEL to zoom in or out of your browser!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizmo Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Or, you can use thumbnails, even better. Here is a picture I took in April, when it was still a lot cooler. Just shows how a Xigmatek Dark Knight can keep a system cool as well. It's summer right now, so my load temperature in this picture is my room temperature! In that pic, the "low" temperature in CoreTemp is my idle temperature (when it is NOT summer!) This is after running Prime95 with small fft's for 8 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigge Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 HWmonitor is sh*t,if you really think your max temp is 32c then your wrong, its like 50c at least, use everest or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizmo Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I mainly use CoreTemp to monitor my core temperatures. CoreTemp is a pretty accurate program. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoječ Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I must aggree, CoreTemp & HWMonitor are the ones you can rely on. I wouldn't bet on Everest or Speedfan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnzooger Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 My god that is a scary cooler... I wouldn't be surprised to see the temp in the case be way screwy because of all the air going straight through the heatsink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_corTEC Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 Umm, no not really. Temps are stable in my case. The CPU cooler fans constantly run at 1200RPM, and that black fan closest to them pushes a large amount of air out and away from the cooler. 190CFM to be exact. Kinda loud, but I wasn't building a media PC when I put this all together. I can however use that CPU cooler as a true passive cooler and at stock CPU speeds the temps are fine. Gonna try for 4.0GHz tonight!!! Wish me luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Good luck. Go for it. I'm getting my NorthQ waterblock in two days. It was on sale and people reported even better temps than the Corsair h50. I'm also going for 4GHz when I get it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 O-M-F-G.......... Just got the NorthQ Siberian Whatever and temps are NOT better. Its the same f*cking temps. 70c load @ 3.5GHz. I even added one extra 120mm fan to the piece of sh*t radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultraman1966 Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 You've probably hit the limit. Are the temperatures consistent on all cores? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKE DOC Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Hmm what limit? Core 0 is 2c hotter than Core 1. The rest is the same as Core 1. f*ck NORTHQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultraman1966 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Hmm, can't find many reviews of that water cooling system. Who recommended it to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luceberg Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Something to bear in mind is that the contact between cpu and heatsink is not perfect. To get a good interface, you need to do some lapping ie: flatten the surfaces. Then use a liquid metal type thermal interface. The cpu surface in particular is very uneven. Try looking at it with a flat blade against the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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