PSU exploaded!

[oklp]

my 750w PSU that i bought about 2 months ago exploaded a few mins ago.

 

i was playing IV and a noticed a fan was geting louder, it was bugging me so i turned up the music, then everything went black on the screen the comp turned of and hell broke loose.

it exploaded, sparks were coming out the back and smoke, it happened a few times, i was sh*t scared, almost cried.

 

anyone know what caused the problem.>?

[anus]

What's the PSU brand and model?

[Slamman]

With all my half-ass tech projects, it never happened to me, but a recent mag query over a replaced and downsized power supply garnered the reply that downsizing caused the problems. Maybe you went TOO HIGH!!

[oklp]

 

What's the PSU brand and model?

its called win power ATX-700

 

oops it was 700w

 

@slamman, i have a gtx 260, it demmands quite alot

Edited July 4, 2009 by oklp

[Slamman]

What is your history of components that you used, namely the board specs?

[oklp]

What is your history of components that you used, namely the board specs?

MSI p6ngm http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec....6NGM-L&class=mb

 

xfx nvidia gtx 260 216cores

 

intel core2quad @ 2.4ghz

[Wolf68k]

It doesn't matter what the specs where or what brand it was.

And sadly no one here can't solve the problem for you, we can only give advice and so here's mine.

 

The PSU is 2 months old, right? Which means it should still be under warranty. So take it back to where you ever you got it and get it replaced or refund. This is assuming you didn't modify the PSU in any way and that you kept the receipt . Also if you kept all of the items that came in the box with the unit (manuals, any extra caps or cables or whatever, still having the box would be good to) this would be a good thing, although I know most people just throw that stuff out once they know it works.

 

Don't be put off they the store offers a replacement, the exact same brand and model. Just because one...ummm well exploded, doesn't mean they all will. I would like to think you picked that PSU for a reason other than it was within your budget.

 

Somethings to remember and this is the same for everything, not just computer parts:

Just because it's new or from a brand you can whole heartily trust doesn't mean it's always perfect. Well known, well trusted, brands can and will have a few lemons that get out into the wild at times; they only test a few from a batch of a run. Also sometimes they change who they get their parts from to save money or fix a problem you didn't know they had.

Just because it's new doesn't mean it can't be bad; thing will even die quickly (if not DOA) or last forever (depending on the amount of abuse it's given). So for a desktop computer that means just being on and running, for a laptop that's carried around a lot then it's abuse will be a whole hell of a lot higher.

[anus]

The PSU most likely overloaded. A 700W from a cheap or generic brand usually doesn't have the power it claims to.

 

You really should've thought about getting a good PSU with a card that power hungry and powerful.

 

Check to see if all your components are working, the PSU could have taken some, or even the whole PC with it.

[Star-Lord]

This is the info on his power supply, if it is the exact one?

Advance Technologies WinPower

 

 

[supermortalhuman]

edit: http://www.gtaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=417008

 

Moved my post here, this seems unsolved as there were more responses in my time of writing (and getting around to clicking post). But as you will see, it's related to a clue this topic provided me, that I had not seen anywhere else.

Edited July 4, 2009 by supermortalhuman

[oklp]

 

The PSU most likely overloaded. A 700W from a cheap or generic brand usually doesn't have the power it claims to.

 

You really should've thought about getting a good PSU with a card that power hungry and powerful.

 

Check to see if all your components are working, the PSU could have taken some, or even the whole PC with it.

im using the same computer, i just replaced the exploaded psu with a 450w psu, but i cant use my grfx card because it needs more power, but everything else works

 

btw should i get a more powerful one or less, because slamman said i could have too much power??

[Slamman]

As it happens, the one I bought for the Dell 280 desktops is 480 watt, and I buy budget, it is well known!

I used eBay and took a pic of the model I bought, I recommend it. Will link the image when it's up, so you see the one I got.

As I was browsing the BOX shop, they had a 400 watt as well, and I picked that up in their used PSU section, got a great deal so I can't complain. The wattage range could be max more then overall current rating. It will peak but not deliver constant power at that level.

 

I was basically joking about too much power, but I would try and find a health match for the motherboard and card...

I'm not powering a hungry card just yet, or any SLI etc. It's good to get some feedback from card users as well in that case, but the mobo boards is where I would check first, as boards are more variety offered.

Edited July 4, 2009 by Slamman

[oklp]

btw does anyone know why my PC got louder before it exploaded, is that a sign of anything?

[Slamman]

Most recently, working with the Xbox, with it's PC like Twin fans, they are speed variable, even with everyone complaining about the level of sound, they do adjust in speed as the chips heat, and I'd say, if it's known the board controls fan speed, it's a good indication of too much load, or it's working harder to cool down. I run many PC desktops without the covers, it does get hot in my apt.

[oklp]

Most recently, working with the Xbox, with it's PC like Twin fans, they are speed variable, even with everyone complaining about the level of sound, they do adjust in speed as the chips heat, and I'd say, if it's known the board controls fan speed, it's a good indication of too much load, or it's working harder to cool down. I run many PC desktops without the covers, it does get hot in my apt.

but i was almost like there was a surge in power, it got louder and louder and louder until it exploaded

[Slamman]

With some onscreen utilities you can see how those fans are running, but if you've only got minor warning, it's hard to tell what to do in the future. I would only go off KNOWN hardware that is stable, that is someone chose the same components and had luck running them.

 

What I'm saying before is I've have had luck mixing and matching hardware from every resource I look into, but that hardware is several years old.

See if that brand PSU has a poor history and opinion from consumers.

I forget the site that is all reviews on products, but I was an active member offering reviews of my own there too,

Right now, I've been trying to shut my WinME down a few times and it's giving me the BSOD with

"Windows Protection Error" ... "You need to Restart Your Computer" System Halted

I did that and I got the same thing, even though Windows itself worked, it gave me BSOD as above, upon shutting down.

 

One thing I highly advise is that you buy a fan or two just for your case, keep things cooler then you have.

Edited July 4, 2009 by Slamman

[oklp]

i was playing IV at the time and it makes my computer run like a steamtrain

[Wolf68k]

Why you're listening to Slamman in the first place is a mystery in it's self.

 

Check the spec requirements of the card. However since in many cases the maker doesn't list much in the way of system requirements it's then I fall back to evga.com and what they require. In the case of a GYX260 eVGA's cards require a 500W PSU with 36Amps on the +12V. That doesn't mean you should limit the PSU to 500W, infact I would say go over that and that 700W would be fine. The real key is the amps on the +12V, but here again I would try to get one that's a bit over just in case.

 

Yes you can have a PSU that can offer more wattage and amps than what you need and it will not effect your system. You can however have one with too little wattage or ampage and that will effect your system, mostly effect it's ability to run at all or run stable.

 

One question I didn't ask and forgot to; is your computer plugged directly into the wall or using a power strip or using a surge protector? Now think before you say power strip or surge protector. Many people think they are the same thing, but they aren't. A power strip is like an extension cord with a bunch of outlets with a ground interrupt which is basically the same thing as what your fuse/circuit break does (remember I said basic not exact). It offers not protection against a power spike/surge; that is what a surge protector is for hence the name. A surge protector looks kinda like a power strip but where the outlets are is a lot bulkier and will usually also have phone and in some case coax cable connections.

It is very possible that a simple surge in the power, that happens every day all day, could have caused this and it's not something a power strip (or even your fuse box/circuit breaker) will stop. Even your simple toaster can stop working because of power surges over time.

If you have a UPS then it also uses surge protection whether the items plugged into it are on the battery back up outlets or not, which is what makes it better to just get one of these instead more so for desktop computers.

[Star-Lord]

 

btw does anyone know why my PC got louder before it exploaded, is that a sign of anything?

I'm not a 100% sure, but if I had to guess your power supply was working too hard, maybe the rails got crossed where the power was unbalanced and send more power to other components and not enough to where it was needed the most and fried itself up. Best bet is next Power supply you buy try to get it higher than the minimum the graphics card requires at least 4-5 amps more and go with a different brand. Enough heat inside the case could of made the sensors(fans) go into overdrive, pulling in more power and putting more stress on your power supply.

Edited July 4, 2009 by pcguytech_2005

[Slamman]

I'm here to help, Wolf48Kman.

 

I don't own a maxi-PadPC, yeah, but I know if the fan is speeding up and getting louder, certainly it's response to something. Boards that monitor fan speed are common place now, but the fact the graphics cards are a PC on a card these days, that makes things harder to balance, but I'd suspect a 700 watt PSU to be made with the idea of high power graphics intended use.

 

One thing Wolfy inspired in my suggestion box is that VERY high end A/V users adopted to new technology for Home Theater, and in many ways, this applies to modern Convergence practice.

So, since I don't have a direct link or recall the product, check on some Hi-Fi Audiophile boards for voltage CONDITIONERS.

Richard is the guy I am trying to think of, like Monster cables' Noel Lee, he came up with a trusted product that is all he makes. It is very spendy. I think his name is Richard Gray. His electrical filters make sure everything stays even and no harm is injected in what is often VERY expensive electronics. It's certainly worthy of protecting computers as it does Audio and Video equipment

Edited July 4, 2009 by Slamman

[oklp]

 

btw does anyone know why my PC got louder before it exploaded, is that a sign of anything?

I'm not a 100% sure, but if I had to guess your power supply was working too hard, maybe the rails got crossed where the power was unbalanced and send more power to other components and not enough to where it was needed the most and fried itself up. Best bet is next Power supply you buy try to get it higher than the minimum the graphics card requires at least 4-5 amps more and go with a different brand. Enough heat inside the case could of made the sensors go into overdrive, pulling in more power and putting more stress on your power supply.

im gunna get either a 750w or 800w, does it really have to be a diffrent make??

 

@wolf, its connected through a power strip

 

Power Requirements for xfx gtx260:

Non-SLI: 630W Minimum Power Supply

SLI: 680W Minimum Power Supply

2 x 6-Pin Power Connector

One 8-Pin Power Connector

Edited July 4, 2009 by oklp

[Slamman]

Use the brand I bought, the seller is on eBay, and I am pretty sure he takes money orders, ask me if you need the brand, I've yet to upload the pic to PB, but here's a PLC review of Richard Gray's product. It's way outta my price range but had many glowing reviews and this review of it tells some of what it's doing as well as a bit about other PLCs.

http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-ac-power...onditioner.html

 

Look up something that's similar at far less cost, this was just a jumping off point.

 

Forgot eBay or some products might not work whereever you are. Being in the USA, it's fairly common for products that sell here

Edited July 4, 2009 by Slamman

[Star-Lord]

If you have no choice but to go with the same brand then try to find one that is at least rated 30a. I have two of the same cards (SLI) as you running on a 1000w Antec TruePower Quattro because the previous power supply i had which was also new couldn't handle both cards. So it's kind of tricky when it comes to buying the perfect power supply that's why I totally agree with Wolf68k who has explained it so well. i would preferred if you didn't go with the same make because they don't exactly work as advertised.

 

NVIDIA

 

Thermal and Power Specs:

Maximum GPU Temperature (in C) 105  C

Maximum Graphics Card Power (W) 182  W

Minimum System Power Requirement (W) 500  W

Supplementary Power Connectors 6-pin x2

[Slamman]

I couldn't locate the picture I was mentioning because it was on my memory card still! I moved it from a desktop drive I guess.

Here It Is Finally... Look into this brand, one of the nice things is how light it is, and I'm sure they got higher spec models

 

So far, nada sparks

[anus]

PSUs being lighter is generally a sign of a low quality PSU.

 

@OP, Don't get the same brand. I mean how could you go for the same brand again after one EXPLODED with sparks flying? That brand is horrible anyway.

 

And the PC got louder probably because as the PSU was being stressed over it's limits, the fans started to speed up due to the increased heat, thus the extra noise.

 

750W or 800W is definitely overkill for your PC, a good 550W PSU like this would do extremely well. It has two 12V rails of 25A each and is 80 Plus certified.

 

If you absolutely must have a 750W or 800W PSU, this PSU would do for a 750W and this PSU would do for a 800W (even though it's 850W, it's cheaper than the 800W PSUs).

[oklp]

 

PSUs being lighter is generally a sign of a low quality PSU.

 

@OP, Don't get the same brand. I mean how could you go for the same brand again after one EXPLODED with sparks flying? That brand is horrible anyway.

 

And the PC got louder probably because as the PSU was being stressed over it's limits, the fans started to speed up due to the increased heat, thus the extra noise.

 

750W or 800W is definitely overkill for your PC, a good 550W PSU like this would do extremely well. It has two 12V rails of 25A each and is 80 Plus certified.

 

If you absolutely must have a 750W or 800W PSU, this PSU would do for a 750W and this PSU would do for a 800W (even though it's 850W, it's cheaper than the 800W PSUs).

minimum for my graphx card is 630w

 

i really hope my card isent fried, i dont know how to test it?

 

is cit a good make? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/700W-Black-PSU-12cm-...PFC-Model-700UB

Edited July 5, 2009 by oklp

[anus]

Dude, that 630W is for the entire system with the highest end parts possible. So, XFX includes the highest end CPU, memory, etc.

 

Basically, the 630W minimum is overrated.

 

To test if the card isn't fried, try it in another PC. Or take it to a PC store and ask them to check it for you.

[oklp]

Dude, that 630W is for the entire system with the highest end parts possible. So, XFX includes the highest end CPU, memory, etc.

 

Basically, the 630W minimum is overrated.

 

To test if the card isn't fried, try it in another PC. Or take it to a PC store and ask them to check it for you.

so a 550w would work well with my comp

 

core2quad 2.4

gtx260 216cores

4gb ram

 

[anus]

The 550W I linked to, yes .

[Wolf68k]

btw does anyone know why my PC got louder before it exploaded, is that a sign of anything?

I'm not a 100% sure, but if I had to guess your power supply was working too hard, maybe the rails got crossed where the power was unbalanced and send more power to other components and not enough to where it was needed the most and fried itself up. Best bet is next Power supply you buy try to get it higher than the minimum the graphics card requires at least 4-5 amps more and go with a different brand. Enough heat inside the case could of made the sensors go into overdrive, pulling in more power and putting more stress on your power supply.

im gunna get either a 750w or 800w, does it really have to be a diffrent make??

 

@wolf, its connected through a power strip

 

Power Requirements for xfx gtx260:

Non-SLI: 630W Minimum Power Supply

SLI: 680W Minimum Power Supply

2 x 6-Pin Power Connector

One 8-Pin Power Connector

Like I said, a power strip is nothing more than fancy extension cord with a breaker on it. Get at least a surge protector or better still a UPS. APC makes the best USPs, IMO.

Again wattage is really a minor factor, as long as it's high enough for what the maker of the card says the card needs. If you look at Slamman's pic of a PSU you'll see it has 1 +12V with only 16Amps and yet the whole thing is rated for 480W. What a waste of money. I had an Antec TruePower (version 1) for 2 years before it started to give out (still worked but under stress it would die) 430W with a single +12V that could deliver 20Amps. Also comparing the 2, he's combines all 3 voltages rails and still only ends up putting out 330Ws, where as the Antec I had the +12V rail alone put out 240W