Quantcast
Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
    1. Welcome to GTAForums!

    1. GTANet.com

    1. GTA Online

      1. Los Santos Tuners
      2. Updates
      3. Find Lobbies & Players
      4. Guides & Strategies
      5. Vehicles
      6. Content Creator
      7. Help & Support
    2. Red Dead Online

      1. Blood Money
      2. Frontier Pursuits
      3. Find Lobbies & Outlaws
      4. Help & Support
    3. Crews

    1. Red Dead Redemption 2

      1. PC
      2. Help & Support
    2. Red Dead Redemption

    1. Grand Theft Auto Series

      1. St. Andrews Cathedral
    2. GTA VI

    3. GTA V

      1. Guides & Strategies
      2. Help & Support
    4. GTA IV

      1. The Lost and Damned
      2. The Ballad of Gay Tony
      3. Guides & Strategies
      4. Help & Support
    5. GTA San Andreas

      1. Guides & Strategies
      2. Help & Support
    6. GTA Vice City

      1. Guides & Strategies
      2. Help & Support
    7. GTA III

      1. Guides & Strategies
      2. Help & Support
    8. Portable Games

      1. GTA Chinatown Wars
      2. GTA Vice City Stories
      3. GTA Liberty City Stories
    9. Top-Down Games

      1. GTA Advance
      2. GTA 2
      3. GTA
    1. GTA Mods

      1. GTA V
      2. GTA IV
      3. GTA III, VC & SA
      4. Tutorials
    2. Red Dead Mods

      1. Documentation
    3. Mod Showroom

      1. Scripts & Plugins
      2. Maps
      3. Total Conversions
      4. Vehicles
      5. Textures
      6. Characters
      7. Tools
      8. Other
      9. Workshop
    4. Featured Mods

      1. Design Your Own Mission
      2. OpenIV
      3. GTA: Underground
      4. GTA: Liberty City
      5. GTA: State of Liberty
    1. Rockstar Games

    2. Rockstar Collectors

    1. Off-Topic

      1. General Chat
      2. Gaming
      3. Technology
      4. Movies & TV
      5. Music
      6. Sports
      7. Vehicles
    2. Expression

      1. Graphics / Visual Arts
      2. GFX Requests & Tutorials
      3. Writers' Discussion
      4. Debates & Discussion
    1. Announcements

      1. GTANet 20th Anniversary
    2. Support

    3. Suggestions

Xbox 360 DIY


Slamman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok, Just what I'd been waiting for, UPS delivered the working Xbox platform I'd been waiting on, just hours ago. I've removed the metal chassis cage, I am looking at the differences among the two I've got. One is straight bevel head Philips screws through the bottom to both heat sinks. Two sizes of black rubber grommits for the top side heat sinks.

 

The other, my replacement, has the (in)famous X metal braces underneath, on each end, attaching to the upper side heat sinks for GPU and CPU.

 

Problem is, the hole for these pins is a small screw receptical. I've got a match for that but as it tightens it doesn't obtain enough grip to remove the main screw. Nothing I saw on YouTube showed me the key to removing these, it seems like a screw in device one can manipulate to unscrew them properly. The heatsink base side screw is the same as the conventional ones on my first board.

I had already cleaned every original surface so the plan was to screw those parts on the board I just got, but I have to live with the semi clean (done myself) heatsinks in the board as it arrived to me. Any ideas on fixing the drive too, submit those.

It was claimed the reading of the DVD Rom is at fault. I took some pictures of various angles of both boards and will have those on line soon.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Ok, Just what I'd been waiting for, UPS delivered the working Xbox platform I'd been waiting on, just hours ago. I've removed the metal chassis cage, I am looking at the differences among the two I've got. One is straight bevel head Philips screws through the bottom to both heat sinks. Two sizes of black rubber grommits for the top side heat sinks.

 

The other, my replacement, has the (in)famous X metal braces underneath, on each end, attaching to the upper side heat sinks for GPU and CPU.

 

Problem is, the hole for these pins is a small screw receptical. I've got a match for that but as it tightens it doesn't obtain enough grip to remove the main screw. Nothing I saw on YouTube showed me the key to removing these, it seems like a screw in device one can manipulate to unscrew them properly. The heatsink base side screw is the same as the conventional ones on my first board.

I had already cleaned every original surface so the plan was to screw those parts on the board I just got, but I have to live with the semi clean (done myself) heatsinks in the board as it arrived to me. Any ideas on fixing the drive too, submit those.

It was claimed the reading of the DVD Rom is at fault. I took some pictures of various angles of both boards and will have those on line soon.

Llamma Forums

 

Those forums will help you out more

 

I remember modding my 360 back in the day turn.gif then it broke just as they announced the three year warranty I was so pissed, Any who not exactly sure what your talking about but the X-clamps are hard to take off, it took me quite a while to get both original heat sinks off

 

There is nothing wrong with the reading of the DVD drive, supposedly the Benq is the quietest followed by the hitachi and the old samsung

 

OH SNAP! I know what your talking about the little black star shaped screw heads? Those were really annoying, there called Torx screws, you need a Torx 9 and Torx 10 driver to get them out, fortunately I had a little toolset containing these when I purchased my new xbxo360 case

Edited by craig3000
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I remember modding my 360 back in the day

 

He's not modding his, he's trying to build a Frankenbox 345 out of trashed 360s.

 

 

There is nothing wrong with the reading of the DVD drive, supposedly the Benq is the quietest followed by the hitachi and the old samsung

 

He's got a bunch of broken parts, so theres a good chance that his drive is f*cked.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember modding my 360 back in the day

 

He's not modding his, he's trying to build a Frankenbox 345 out of trashed 360s.

 

 

There is nothing wrong with the reading of the DVD drive, supposedly the Benq is the quietest followed by the hitachi and the old samsung

 

He's got a bunch of broken parts, so theres a good chance that his drive is f*cked.

Ok, sorry I didn't understand what he was getting at!

 

I think he needs torx drivers though

Link to post
Share on other sites

Of course, you can't get the mobo out without doing that, and as such, I just noticed the four (per sink) center screws mount to the X-bracing from the outside of the metal chassis.

 

Still gives little indication of how the main bracing unscrews from the heatsink. The one I had mentioned first, the one I cleaned up for parts, that had normal bevel screws that mount thru the holes in the mobo and into the heatsinks on the top side.

 

I feel going that method is much preferred. There is a rubber insulator on the ICs in each critical area, each one is stuck on with sticky residue.

The critical area is the underside or top of an IC to help with heat as well, I believe...and protect the IC's main surface. Where the X-brace crosses the bottom, these are found in it's place on the earlier motherboard (mobo)

 

The drive should not be an issue, for the one I am replacing, but they are not BenQ, they are Hitachi-LG, or Goldstar joint production DVD ROMs.

About to fire the puppy up for the first time, but I'm gonna get a HDD for this thing today as well, I decided...with my rent money! haha

Actually, if I can get a tip on removing those X braces, that is most confusing to me. The motherboard went in to the metal chassis a bit off, so the screws kinda pulled it back in line, but it was odd to find that out.

 

Update-Status....

This one had an Xbox360 Arcade disc in the drive, several circular cuts into the substrate. The DVD appears a washout, the trouble with something internal scratching discs could be part of the problem, but I see no video out put either... but the only result on the unit itself is the two LEFT side indicators light up, not a THREE RING circus as is normal of RRoD.

 

I still think the video GPU is playing a major stumbling block in this mess

Edited by Slamman
Link to post
Share on other sites

The motherboard is coded to the DVD drive so if you replace it then you will need to flash the replacement with the serial of the original drive.

 

Man just save some pennies and buy a working one for fraks sake.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Man just save some pennies and buy a working one for fraks sake.

 

I've been thinking the same thing the whole damn time.

 

 

Even if you do get it working, do you really expect it to work just as good as one from the factory?

 

Because I can pretty much guarantee that you will keep having problems with it, if you ever get it to actually work.

 

If.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you read some, just some of the FIX it UR self guides online? As I stated, I am poor, no extra income, looking for a well paying job still. I am not at the give up point as I know a working mobo would fix this, but the drive is not the real issue, I have red lights still, I have no video output and nothing I've done yet has resolved those issues. It's a gamble, certainly, I've said before. Tell that to half a million people who go to casinos and buy lotto tickets? How is this so different from doing that!

 

I am getting fed up, I know how to restore PCs but this problem isn't as easy as buying a new graphics card, the mobo is surface mount, with history of solder problems as well, if you read what's reported. What I was looking for is some technical expertise online versus some 14 year old kid on YT who thinks they resolve it with a towel around the system. The boards themselves aren't terribly expensive.

 

I looked at the second DVD drive internally, I don't see what could have caused the scraps unless it was moved while reading, perhaps.?

Link to post
Share on other sites

People are posting on other forums and claiming enthusiastically that the two or three red lights can be fixed. The long term effects may not stand up to a new system, but these two are the same vintage. First one gave me a few seconds of video but now I just get the three RRoD straight away, the fan shuts down.

 

I don't know the drive firmware trick, but I see on eBay mention of a DVD key on some auctions.

 

The update now is the flat head screw driver pic on this page helped me figure out that the X-brace locks the heatsink pins to the bottom side...similar to Slot 1 Pentium 2 packages, which someone needed to point out, those I've got a number of!

 

The heatsinks are obviously different so I am now swapping those after cleaning off the thermal paste on the tops of both chips. I am not applying new paste until I know I'm getting somewhere. I do have rubbing alcohol that I think some were using, but my thermal paste is not the "arctic" variety, but it SHOULD still work.

It's a rather messy gray variety.

 

Helpful stills;

http://www.squidoo.com/xbox_360_red_ring_o...how_to_guide123

 

I took pics initially, not updated, but they'll be uploaded to Photobucket so a search will turn them up. I figure if I can't get them to work, I will sell them again, like others do, and if not, then send them to MS with a note! haha

 

UPdate tonite.... I took my traditional heatsinks and mounted them on the other board (one I am working with that came today).... The system is with it's original drive, so firmware is not going to be a factor.

The odd result is three traditional RRoD instead of just the two on the left side now... The fans keep spinning, the Power Supply pilot light is not orange as it was before (never red), but green, showing proper operation on that end.

The drive has function as long as the fans are also spinning. The system STILL has no sign of video output.

The thing that one notices with the fans on, the main board is staying active, the heatsinks are returning to normally excessive heated mode... too hot to the touch. Worth noting from that article at Anandtech is that the fans are BLOWING OUT not in, so they don't supply cooling, they direct it outward

Edited by Slamman
Link to post
Share on other sites

Forgive a DP here, but I updated the last posting more then once...

Today, still with original heatsinks put back on, no paste, removed the old stuff off the dies, the paste I did add is from the first board, on the heatsinks but rubbed flat. Anyway, now I got video of the opening XBOX 360 logo that proceeds into the menu. I had a few seconds from there to cycle the various menu pages before it went black and shut down. Still flashing two red lights.

 

Right now, only thing I can think of is obtaining the paste people are recommending. Anyway to get the proper washers in a local store?

I think I'll use the ones I got on the top side of the board. More update to follow. I took a video as well, going up to YouTube. There's no profile on it yet, which it looks like is the first order of business before game playing, etc.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Forgive a DP here, but I updated the last posting more then once...

Today, still with original heatsinks put back on, no paste, removed the old stuff off the dies, the paste I did add is from the first board, on the heatsinks but rubbed flat. Anyway, now I got video of the opening XBOX 360 logo that proceeds into the menu. I had a few seconds from there to cycle the various menu pages before it went black and shut down. Still flashing two red lights.

 

Right now, only thing I can think of is obtaining the paste people are recommending. Anyway to get the proper washers in a local store?

I think I'll use the ones I got on the top side of the board. More update to follow. I took a video as well, going up to YouTube. There's no profile on it yet, which it looks like is the first order of business before game playing, etc.

When at the store, get the torx screwdriver bits or full driver set, and get an angle grinder. The angle grinder will get that crappy metal stuff off. For the paste, you can use cpu cooling paste, artic silver is good. You can get it at Best buy or another computer store. Or you can use regular paste on the cpu, that should spread the heat well. suicidal.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried my generic paste on the first mobo, it's not doing much at all.

Unlike PCs I've worked on, you need to get a perfect connection on the XBOX chips, they are extremely tempermental. Most PCs are forgiving. I've got them to run without adding any paste on CPUs.

 

I am looking for good tips, of course. The guys at the PC store are only marginally helpful. Most of the YT gurus are the same. I can't find Arctic Silver locally there, but bought, on recommendation, OCZ's Extreme Connectivity Compound. The guy is pretty sure it'll do the trick.

"Freeze" brand. Don't have rubbing alcohol that most are saying to use on old paste to clean up the 'sinks and the Die/chips.

 

I guess I still need to buy that. The video is allowing me to move into the menu today, but that's before getting any new paste on the sinks, which I have now off the board again. Getting the X braces off can damage the board itself, so it's tricky doing it more then once!.

 

This link explains what I assume is the main repair method via kit.

I can tell you now, my method had been through the mobo and NOT the metal chassis as this entails. Same thing with both boards, the screws through the bottom of the X-brace and the chassis is meant to attach the board to the chassis, not the the heatsinks themselves. It creates additional work I feel I drop the board in the chassis when I fire it up, but it can pop in and out while testing because it's not screwed to the base.

 

http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair/ring_...x-clamp_fix.htm

Edited by Slamman
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bumped for update....

 

I know, too soon to bump perhaps, but I have to report, I got this second Mobo running, about 10 hours now, or 9 and half according to GTA4 stats screen. Either way, the fix worked, so follow my lead here, I reassembled the X-clamps with no washers, although I tried the rubber grommit washers which I believe are close to the 1mm designated in the article linked. Thing I did was use some gentle, but EXTREMELY messy steel wool sink (bathroom/kitchen variety) cleaner on top of rubbing alchohol.

 

The liquid alone was not doing much, HOWEVER, this is a messy technique, it required little time and some effort to get all the dried residue off.

 

I had been scraping the heatsink bottoms with a finger nail clipper nail sander!! It provided a sharp metal contact for scraping. The original board so far still gives me three red rings, but I am going to try some more things with it, I'm a bit encouraged now, if the video GPU isn't completely shot on that board, I dunno.

 

The X clamp curved ends lock into the indent on the screw in heatsink posts. To make them easier to pop on and off, I pried the bent end section up a bit, however, I almost went too far with that endeavor and they seemed to pop off while fastening them back on, however, it did work.

 

Took some time to find a Xb260 memory card in place of the lacking HDD, cost me $30 per 256MB too. The 512 cards here are all $50, which is crazy if you ask me.

 

There were no washers used in this refurb, the thing I am pointing out, the online solution kits are to add several washers on new flat head screws, however, with the proper cooler, I am using the same hardware it came with!

Edited by Slamman
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Have you read some, just some of the FIX it UR self guides online? As I stated, I am poor, no extra income, looking for a well paying job still. I am not at the give up point as I know a working mobo would fix this, but the drive is not the real issue, I have red lights still, I have no video output and nothing I've done yet has resolved those issues. It's a gamble, certainly, I've said before. Tell that to half a million people who go to casinos and buy lotto tickets? How is this so different from doing that!

 

I am getting fed up, I know how to restore PCs but this problem isn't as easy as buying a new graphics card, the mobo is surface mount, with history of solder problems as well, if you read what's reported. What I was looking for is some technical expertise online versus some 14 year old kid on YT who thinks they resolve it with a towel around the system. The boards themselves aren't terribly expensive.

 

I looked at the second DVD drive internally, I don't see what could have caused the scraps unless it was moved while reading, perhaps.?

Currently, 2 more broken 360s and you'd have more than paid for a new arcade.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My determination was to get a third mobo off eBay, but that would concern the DVD ROM firmware, as well. Murdoc was pointing out the drive needs to match the cb, so I swapped the CB for the drive as well. Most parted items don't include drive and mobo as I seemingly required. Key was to come in under $150, but I believe I came close. That damn RAM and PSU sh*t

 

Updated added from Xbox thread, the heatsink is running much cooler, and it's been 80s here, as well...worth noting the ambiant air temp this thing sits running in.

The drive is a bit hotter, not sure why, but since I was getting physically burned touching the heatsink before, this is interesting and key to make note!

 

UPDATED, left the thing in my fridge, it booted up normal, navigated the dashboard GUI again, second time, got through the Initial setup but I doubt it will hold the settings, it shut back down after that phase of operation, however, I did look at all the windows one can navigate there, but was hoping to get the model number spec off the GUI stats. I just get E74 again. Tried a shorter stay in the icebox. Try this, put it in the freezer and see what happens!!!

Edited by Slamman
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

BUMP,

 

Moving from Gaming Chat into this thread. Follow along with bookmarking it!

 

I scoured CraigsList as well as contact MS over and over with each reply they give me, trying to get more info on their end. HOWEVER, this third party solution is in Maplewood, Minnesota.

The can offer BGA solder support that few others have, they show pictures of the device where the pins in the mobo used to mount the heatsink go on the device and it resolders the joints, and it looks like they can remove the CPU and GPU with this as well!

 

Repair costs have been $30 to $45. Very reasonable considering parts costs as well. One guy may even over laptop builds of the 360 console!! He shows a pic of one!

 

What do you get for $45.00?

Their copy reads;

 

1)We Professionally re-flow the lead free solder with a BGA Re-flow Repair Station on either CPU/GPU , Hana/Ana, Ram, Southbridge depending on which is having an issue.

 

 

 

2)We remove the preexisting thermal compound on both CPU & GPU & replace with Artic Silver thermal compound the best in the industry!

 

 

 

3)Remove any dust from fans and motherboard

 

I've done most of this already, but now contacting them to see about recourses. ^

Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember seeing a fairly cool project where DIYers soldered PGA sockets onto the 360 board and painstakingly soldered a pin on each contact land on the chips, so that they could switch chips between board revisions to see if they worked. Can't find it again though. icon13.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked at some more YouTube vids on this process, they make it home-brewed, but this guy has professional equipment (shown in his listing, three pics)

 

The ANA and NAND (IIRC) IC chips are thought to be an issue for E74 as well. The penny trick is supposed to push the ANA chip (Southgate I believe) down and reset the contacts, however, many of these ideas seem novice based, but there are a number of videos and people sounding off on it, while equally cursing Microsoft. I'm fairly confident that the Xbox I have been working on can be fixed because the video was restored after most of my experiments. Only recently added more paste and put the heatsinks back on, then the E74 error reappeared

Link to post
Share on other sites

2)We remove the preexisting thermal compound on both CPU & GPU & replace with Artic Silver thermal compound the best in the industry!

Shame that OCZ FreeZe, Arctic Cooling MX2 and a few other Thermal Pastes beat out AS5 and don't have to wait for burn in time either...

 

Honestly, I think that even if you get this thing fully working that it won't stay working for long, once something breaks, it's gone or lost most of its lifetime.

 

(Case in point, my AGP 6800GS.)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Whatever it can provide, I'd like to see, I had some generic stuff that's not very smooth, gray/silver looking, I used it because I have no other use for it, as well, mixed the two, basically.

 

End result re-assembled is there is NO VIDEO at all, the PSU remains green and it runs still. Won't shut off, because the CPU is running VERY cool to the touch, so that should not require any work I would think, but the GPU does burn if you hold your hand to any part of it, and the ANA/NANA (?) IC RAM chips are quite hot! I only had two sticky foam pads that normally reside below the motherboard, so I alternated them, didn't change the outcome however.

 

Also put some empty envelopes on the metal chassis surface then dropped the motherboard/mobo into it. This keeps the contacts safer from shorting out.

 

The Xbrick360 starts out running as quiet as you can/'t imagine...then picks up noise and speed after a few minutes, but nothing obnoxious so the heat is leveling off over a long duration. Still, I have no idea where my E74 screen went to. I only removed the GPU HS and added some more paste but I did use more SOS steel wool, and perhaps caused an issue with that, I used paper towel and toilet paper as well as blowing on it to get debris off.

 

The charge for re-solder work is $55 I believe, but he quoted me $50 so I get a deal on that when I do it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Bumping this, added new pics of these in Gaming Chat and about to do the repair with the guy on Craig's List.

While it was running, and assembled, this shot was taken;

user posted image

Then this of course... DAMMIT;

user posted image

Link to post
Share on other sites

That TV is the business Slamman. My friend has an Xbox 360 Premium that doesn't work. I don't think it gives out any video signal either. He got fed up with it so just bought a new Arcade and put his hard drive into it. Now he has a very pretty 360 ornament.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my 360 working kinda by using Toothpaste as Thermal Paste, great thing to last for a few weeks.

 

Although I might take my chance with a E74'd Elite on eBay...

Link to post
Share on other sites

That 25inch RCA ColorTrak TV is now my stand, it was my first REAL TV, prior was a 13 inch Amdek Color-I

Used for my Apple computing days and as a monitor to all my VCRs. The one above it is active, all I get is SUPER loud audio snow with the 25 inch. It had some color fringing where a magnet caused interference. It was de-gaussed more then once.

 

I had help getting it up three flights of stairs so it's stuck in here now!

 

The Toshiba is years old now, since I paid $500 for that, the RCA was $200

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

That 25inch RCA ColorTrak TV is now my stand, it was my first REAL TV, prior was a 13 inch Amdek Color-I

Used for my Apple computing days and as a monitor to all my VCRs. The one above it is active, all I get is SUPER loud audio snow with the 25 inch. It had some color fringing where a magnet caused interference. It was de-gaussed more then once.

 

I had help getting it up three flights of stairs so it's stuck in here now!

 

The Toshiba is years old now, since I paid $500 for that, the RCA was $200

That TV has potential for a cool flat screen/ PC MOD and with plenty of room for a wet bar wink.gif

ColorTrak

 

@Cursed

Not a bad idea icon14.gif

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found where the guy lives who does the repairs, only last night the cops pulled me over and towed my car....with boxes inside and my PS3 controller!

 

Seems my insurance expired, but my card was good, and the dates don't make sense from what they told me, either way, I'll be in debt the rest of my life!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • 1 User Currently Viewing
    0 members, 0 Anonymous, 1 Guest

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using GTAForums.com, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.