Mega Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Linear on the same gear. Its a new fault, only been happening for about 2 weeks. sh*t. Then it's not the clutch. If there is a rev limiter or something you should check it. And if the car is high mileaged you should go to a garage. Signature soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayC Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 10 years old and 48000 miles. Not high at all. I'm useless at engines, what should I be looking at for a rev limiter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ-Jelly-Doughnut Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I'm an apprentice panel beater Hit me up if you chaps need a hand.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalpura Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 I'm an apprentice panel beater Hit me up if you chaps need a hand.... Sif, I'm an apprentice panel beater too. What year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ-Jelly-Doughnut Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I'm an apprentice panel beater Hit me up if you chaps need a hand.... Sif, I'm an apprentice panel beater too. What year? 2nd.. you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalpura Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Just into my third, and buying tonnes of Snap On and Wurth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ-Jelly-Doughnut Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 (edited) I use sidchrome, well technically proto now.. If I was to have completed my apprenticeship I plan to move from smash repairs to fabrication and customization.. but im not gonna finish I might go to the reserves Edited June 23, 2006 by DJ-Jelly-Doughnut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbaneez Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) ... Edited December 14, 2008 by Barbaneez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ-Jelly-Doughnut Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Hey guys, I have recently acquired an old 1987 Ford F150 for a small price, it's mechanically good but could use a paintjob. I think it would be a fun project to repaint it. But could someone here give me advice on how to repaint it? Do I have to completely sand it down firt, then repaint it (with what - spray paint)? How much difficulty is involved in repainting a vehicle? On this particular one, there isn't too much rust on it at all (so that's a good thing I guess.) But can someone offer me a quick guide on how I can completely repaint my new-old truck? Thanks in advance. Well it depends, if you want quality... break out the spanners. If you want a complete colour change respray, you will need to strip the whole car (depending on how proper you want it done, and how much effort your willing to pitch in) including the engine. You will need primer, and paintwise, it depends... Acrylic paint is cheaper but requires cutting for a finish and it fades in the sun... (factory paint on average cars). But I suggest going with 2pac, it is an auto finish so to speak and wont fade... thats just basics. If you want your body to come up well, you will need to repair rust and other damage (provided you want to), for info on that and further info on products and want not, just post in here again.... That is just very basic... and post pics of damage and car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbaneez Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) ... Edited December 14, 2008 by Barbaneez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer13 Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 My dad has a 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The problem was that it was flooding out a few weeks ago. So my dad bought a $400 Carbuerator. Well he put it on today and it is doing the same thing. Oh and also the air-conditioner wouldn't work but now it does BUT when you put the car in drive and turn the air-conditioner on it goes dead. We finally got it to not go dead but the choke is set too high. So if anyone can help please do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 @Barbaneez, strip out the car. At least, if you dont't wanna take off the engine nor the interior ask a profesionnal to do the job. I'll post some pics of the minimum work you will need to do in order to repaint the exterior. Well the car is a BMW coupé but you will get the thing none the less. @Lucifer: the engine is probably dieing. He should go to a GM specialist in your area to fix it up (reasonable prices for a classic car like a 86). For your AC story, do you know if there is a running AC belt or/and compressor? It could be this. Signature soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millermagic Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 What would be involved in installing a remote starter. I know that first I have to bypass the anti theft system, but are they like plug and play or would I have to get out my wiring diagrams for the car and figure out where I have to like solder wires in? Or does it depend on which model and brand I get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Doidberg Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 When you purchase a remote starter it SHOULD include a how-to, you may need to look up colours of wires, because they are different with different cars. If not, e-mail the company you purchased it from and they will reply how to do it. If you are new to wiring plz dont try it yourself lol. Start with simple things like lights, stereo etc, or get a shop to install it, they wont even need a guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalpura Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 @Barb. I wouldn't recommend doing a repaint yourself. Shops don't charge >$5000 (AU) for a repaint for no reason -- and that's not a colour change. Plus, pressure pack paint sucks and looks horrible. If you just want it to look nice, go to an auto shop and get some cutting compound and wax and rub the sucker all over. It'll make it all nice and shiny again; and it's cheap. But, if you really want to do it, I'm happy to offer any advice you require, as I'm sure DJJD is. And when DJ says you need to strip it down, he means take any of the outer hardware off. If you mask (tape) it off you'll get a paint edge and on the edge of the tape you won't get good paint adhesion meaning it'll eventually lift. And to give you an idea on rust. It might look like a little bit, but when you go to take it out (and I've done this many times) you'll hit it with a grinder and the panel just falls in making a huge hole because there was very little metal left and it was all rusted from the other side. You often have to cut/grind it out and weld in patches, of course use approriate rust prevention sparys and such afterwards too so it doesn't come back. Then you can fibreglass/bog (bondo) it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTA3Freak-2001 Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Would it be normal for a cars temp to go up when its idling? When I say going up I mean almost into the red within minutes, once going its fine and stays at a reasonable level. This is with a mechanically(its a Holden Combo) 98 Holden Barina/Opel Corsa btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cran. Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I wouldn't think that would be too normal, maybe check your cooling fluid. Yes, a car should warm up, but not go into the red within minutes. Although i'd get a second opinion on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANANAMOOSE Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I know nothing about your car in particular, so, I have to ask whether it is air or liquid cooled. If it is air coooled, then, what you are desribing is perfectly normal. But, If it is lquid cooled, and I assume that is, you have a problem. I'd check the cooling system and then take it to a mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleeSimpson Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Would it be normal for a cars temp to go up when its idling? When I say going up I mean almost into the red within minutes, once going its fine and stays at a reasonable level. This is with a mechanically(its a Holden Combo) 98 Holden Barina/Opel Corsa btw. If your cat is busted this could happen. When i bashed my cat in via a huge ass rock, and didnt know it, the temp would go up to the red, and when i steped on the gas it would go back down. AFter about a month of this it got to the point where it would harldy run, and you stepd on the gas and you would crawl at like 2 mph then it sputters then you start goin. I fixed it by changin the cat. And by cat i do mean catalytic convertor. I dont go around bashing cats in with huge rocks. i swear Just feel like postin this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTA3Freak-2001 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I'd assume its air-cooled, it has had temp problems before but that was due to the radiator and the fan controller not working which has since been replaced/fixed. I've heard that Barinas in general tend to run hotter in Australia as they weren't exactly built with our climate in mind being euro imports. I've also noticed it just doesn't like idling, like you can feel it shuddering more then what you'd expect. Its an 98 SB Barina/Corsa mechanically just to clarify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTA3Freak-2001 Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Calling all car audiophiles! I've got a 2 or 3 year old Sony Xplod Head unit that has worked fine for most of the time, however now for some reason it has trouble picking up any radio signals be it AM or FM. Standing still you can get almost clear reception however for the most part when moving it will be a messy static. The car's outside aerial/antenna is fully extended so I am not sure what is the problem if its the head unit or the wiring to my antenna. Anyone know? I assume there's a wire that attaches to the antenna right? Could that be loose or come off alltogether? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHAT!? Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Alright. I'm currently seeking help about my troubles through a couple other forums. I have an appointment to take my truck into the dealership tommorrow. But I figured I might as well see if you fine people might help me. Alright, I have a 1996 Chevrolet Silverado that runs the 350 Vortech V8. It has around 160,000 miles on it and lately it loves to act up on me. I'm having a few problems with this thing. About a month ago the truck was running funny. It was loosing power whenever I put a load on the motor. It would surge and misfire, especially when it was wet outside. Through the help of another foum I found that this was a problem with my distributor. I replaced the cap and cleaned the contacts on the rotor. The truck has ran just fine for the last month. Last night I get in the truck to leave for work. The truck was sitting at idle, I hadn't even put it in gear to go anywhere yet. Suddenly the idle drops very low and the headlights and dash lights go out and come back on. Then it idles up. Then it idles back down, the headlights and dash lights go out again. So, I hold my foot on the gas and keep the RPMs at 1,000. It doesn't loose power so long as I am doing this. So I think to myself "ok, well maybe I can make it to work". I decided to leave the parking lot and as soon as I hit the gas to get onto the street. It looses power and misfires. I can hear a loud POP! come from my exaust. So now I just say the hell with it. I parked the thing because its too dark outside to work on it now. My first hunch is that it has to be somthing wrong with the electrical. I'm almost positive that the fuel is getting to the motor just fine (I say almost because in all honesty I don't know what I'm talking about). I had the fuel pressure regulator checked not more then a month ago. The tech hooked a gauge up to the motor and found that the fuel pressure was fine. I check to see if I had any battery cables that were getting thin or shorting out, maybe rubbing against the exaust manifold... This doesn't seem to be the case. When I move them the truck doesn't run any differently. I also checked the spark plug wires. These seem to be fine as well, and they are brand new. I looked at my voltage gage because I thought maybe the alternator was taking a sh*t. But its right where it should be. But then, the truck isn't acting quite as bad as it was last night. The lights are staying on, and its idling fine. It seems to be one of those phantom problems that strike when its least conveinent. Its still missing whenever I accelerate though. I just took a quick trip to AutoZone and had a tech plug a computer into it. The codes he got were 30300 and P0420. One for a low efficency rating on the catalytic converter for the passenger side. And another for a random misfire. (I fully expected both of those, though.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I'll give the other problems/quirks here I don't know if they are related. _______________ Exaust leak: Leaking badly behind the Catalytic Converter on the passenger side. Needs a new gasket. _______________ Rapid deceleration: When I take the truck over 50mph and only when I take it over 50mph... I take my foot off of the gas and its as if I'm almost instantly putting the brake on. The truck just will not coast. However if I just touch the gas a little bit the truck will then begin to coast properly with no drag. _______________ Weird noise?: I have noticed odd sounds coming from behind my dash. Somtimes it sounds as if I have mice living in this thing. Leaves/papers moving. Things like that. Other times I hear loud clicks as if switches are making contact and then being flicked back off again. I'm starting to wonder if I need to replace the distributor cap and rotor again. If I do this will be the third one I have installed. I'm wondering if the module that sits down behind the cap isn't regulating voltages properly. Maybe its burning 'em up? Then again I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring is at fault. Maybe there is a bad connection or a sensor somwhere that is to blame. All I know is I've been having problems off and on for months, no matter what I do, who I talk to, where I go... It just isn't getting resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHAT!? Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 Well, thanks. I never did take it into the dealer. But I have it under control. My problem was a bit of plastic that somehow managed to find its way in between the positive battery cable and the terminal on the battery. As a result the cable was only making partial contact to the terminal. I took the plastic out of the way and the truck runs just fine again. I put a new gasket behind the catalytic converter on the passenger side and fixed my exaust leak. I also found the cause of the rapid deceleration. Its a problem with the transmission. I just have a stuck valve. I'm thinking a fluid change might fix it. As for the weird noise behind my dashboard. I'm still workin' on that one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simplyunkillable Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 for the wierd dash noise, i'm thinking there's a rat or mouse in it. there was a rat in my stepdads car a few months ago causing that kind of noise. when we finally checked to see what it was, there was rat shit filling the space inbetween the skid plate and sump, rat shit in the dash, chewed speedo cables, chewed reverse light cables, and a funny smell when the heater was on. we shot the f*cker with a winchester. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tryst Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Hello, I have a question. I have a '91 mustang 4 banger, when ever I put the car in reverse and turn the wheel left it makes this clunking sound. Almost as if it was like bending the metal. This only happens when I turn the wheel left and am in reverse. What could possibly be making this sound? Art Dela Me-+-Ze Music Le Me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dup Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Sounds like suspension parts are worn on one of the front wheels. Could be something simple like a droplink. I'd replace both sides at once if is the droplinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slynke Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Sounds like suspension parts are worn on one of the front wheels. Could be something simple like a droplink. I'd replace both sides at once if is the droplinks. x2 Ryzen 7 5800X | RTX 3080 Ti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTA3Freak-2001 Posted July 22, 2007 Share Posted July 22, 2007 My brother has a pretty good condition 84' Mazda 929, interior is immaculate and the body is in great shape. However it has a cracked head, so its pretty useless right now. Don't ask me why he didn't get it checked before he bought it anyway he paid about $800 for it so is there anything worthwhile that can be done. Obviously it needs a new engine, right? Crushing it for scrap would probably only net him 200 bucks at most so this is why he doesn't know what to do. Right now he's riding around in a almost defective Mitsubishi Colt that cost him 200 dollars so you can imagine the problems it has. Would it be worth getting a new motor for the 929? Is this kind of process costly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch. Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 maybe check out a junkers yard and see if they have any motors that they want rid of? either that or just replace the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the modern criminal Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 get it welded it woild cost ya bout 500 at repco btw strretch heads are very exspensive or go down to the wreckers and buy an entire drive line my dad builds hot rods so i know alot about cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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