The Garage

[The-King]

 

This is a topic dedicated to fellow forum members assisting you in any problem that befalls your's or your relatives vehicles.

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How To's
Rust Removal

Edited February 3, 2007 by The-King

[Mega]

Well. If quackaddict and dup were ready to assist us, it would be very nice. We welcome anyone who wants to help.

 

Basically, this is the place where you should ask for any mechanical, electrical problem, and also share your tips on repairing stuff on car/models, even the basics.

I'm not perfect, and i'm studying international relations at university, and putting my hands into cars is more like a passion than something else, so if we can't answer, don't be the whiny bitch. Thx

 

There will be also how to's in this topic (on the first page), for different models of cars, of course with pictures.

 

Pinning the stuff.

Edited September 13, 2005 by Pavlov

[BulletProofPatriot]

Nice topic. Someones looking for more karma

[SWEETSAPRIK]

Good idea.

You two should make one or two more "for future editing" posts right now while you're still on the first page.

That way when you get some of those "how to" posts, you can put them here and not have to worry about the image per post limits.

Just a thought.

 

Anyway, good luck with this, it could help some people.

[The-King]

Good idea.

You two should make one or two more "for future editing" posts right now while you're still on the first page.

That way when you get some of those "how to" posts, you can put them here and not have to worry about the image per post limits.

Just a thought.

 

Anyway, good luck with this, it could help some people.

If we need it Pavlov can do it, remember he is one of the led-bys.~TGK

[San andreas master]

Firstly this is gonna be a great topic,

Second I will help you guys out if you want, I know my way round a car.- ѕ.а.м

[SilentM]

Nice topic. Someones looking for more karma

Sure looks like it, these two guys really know what they're doing when it comes to cars too.

[The-King]

Firstly this is gonna be a great topic,

Second I will help you guys out if you want, I know my way round a car.- ?.?.?

Send a PM listing your qualifications as stated in the first post.~TGK

[San andreas master]

I sent you a pm TGK and I hope you accept I'm skilled in these areas.- ѕ.а.м

[CraftLandia]

This could prove to be quite a usefull topic.

 

I might be able to help out a bit. I'm currently doing my pre-apprenticship automotive course at Tafe, that and with all the work I've done on mine and friends cars I may be able to answer a few questions from what I've learnt over time.

 

 

[Pancho the great]

Good idea for a topic.

 

This will be the first Ill come if my car has problems

 

 

 

[Mega]

This could prove to be quite a usefull topic.

 

I might be able to help out a bit. I'm currently doing my pre-apprenticship automotive course at Tafe, that and with all the work I've done on mine and friends cars I may be able to answer a few questions from what I've learnt over time.

 

 

i'm taking you Richard. You were helpful around here before. Watch out for first how-to's articles.

[avito coleone]

Hey I pm'd GTAK and asked to be moved onto the staff. I tried to start one of these topics earlier but it never got off the ground. I want to write a how to, right now! But what should the topic be, whats a common problem that I can help with? I am mainly into rust removal (Though I will leave that to dick HAHA), and car interiors, (can do minimal body kit work with kit conversions, helped a mate of mine finish his SLADY. OH MY GOD!), however I dont know much about shaving, or tubbing.

 

Would love to help, as I love cars!

[The-King]

Ok avito, you have been added to the list and the PM was sent. I feel as you will be a useful addition to staff.

 

And how about a "how to" about rust removel ~TGK

[wantfrieswithat9]

I have a 2006 volvo S60 (2.5) and I need to get the grille off. me and my friend tried everything other than hitting it with a crowbar, and still no Dice. if anyone knows how to take it off, please tell me. thanks

[CraftLandia]

I can't say I know much about Volvos, but as with anything it has to be held on by some sort of clips and screws, just feel around behind it and have a play with it. Otherwise the best thing you could do is check a workshop manual for your model car.

 

I don't know sh*t about rust removal, being why I scrapped my old car.

[Mega]

Well from an ex Volvo V70 owner i must tell you that you will have fun with your grille.

As you may see your grille is solid with your bumper. Furthermore there's pratically no access to it from under the hood.

Steps to follow:

1. You bought it brand new aye? Go to your local dealer and ask for the CDrom workshop repair/parts list for S60. (i know it exists, i got one with my 70). It will allow you to see which parts are attached to your bumper, how many bolts, screws, and clips you will have to handle etc... Basically tough work is waiting for you.

2. Before declipping and desrewing your bumper you will have to take off all the underbody panels in order to access the foglamps and all the other parts attached to your bumper. Don't forget to classify your parts in plastic bags etc, it would be a shame if you lost something on a brand new car.

3. Once everything debolted & descrewed, you can declip&descrew your bumper, of course following the schemes of your CD. Don't forget there are screws also around the grille on the inside.

4. Bumper removed. Don't forget to be 2 to do it, otherwise parts like foglamps would fall off. You have a free access to your grille, bumper on the ground.

 

Important: don't try to do that without the schemes of the workshop CD. You may tear of plastic parts, or spend an afternoon on thinking "why the hell my bumper is still attached to my car, i tought i removed all the clips"

[wantfrieswithat9]

Well from an ex Volvo V70 owner i must tell you that you will have fun with your grille.

As you may see your grille is solid with your bumper. Furthermore there's pratically no access to it from under the hood.

Steps to follow:

1. You bought it brand new aye? Go to your local dealer and ask for the CDrom workshop repair/parts list for S60. (i know it exists, i got one with my 70). It will allow you to see which parts are attached to your bumper, how many bolts, screws, and clips you will have to handle etc... Basically tough work is waiting for you.

2. Before declipping and desrewing your bumper you will have to take off all the underbody panels in order to access the foglamps and all the other parts attached to your bumper. Don't forget to classify your parts in plastic bags etc, it would be a shame if you lost something on a brand new car.

3. Once everything debolted & descrewed, you can declip&descrew your bumper, of course following the schemes of your CD. Don't forget there are screws also around the grille on the inside.

4. Bumper removed. Don't forget to be 2 to do it, otherwise parts like foglamps would fall off. You have a free access to your grille, bumper on the ground.

 

Important: don't try to do that without the schemes of the workshop CD. You may tear of plastic parts, or spend an afternoon on thinking "why the hell my bumper is still attached to my car, i tought i removed all the clips"

thanks, thats awesome, I'll head back to the dealer as soon as I have some time

[avito coleone]

How To: Rust Removal

 

Introduction

Welcome to the first official Garage “How To…”. My name is avito coleone, and I will try and guide you the best I can through removal of rust from your car.

 

Firstly

Todays technology regaurding galvanized metal and plastic panels is making rust a less and less common problem on your daily driver. Once rust was a bad problem that could usually never be fixed, but through increased technology and allot of trial and error rust removal is getting more accurate and less hard to do. Still there are some exceptions, especially in the case of deep rust, where the rust has deeply infected the whole panel of the car. Seeing as I am not a panel beater, and that I have only removed rust, successfully twice. (This was on a couple of paddock bashers as I anted to see how hard it was to do. Its hard, but can be done.). I can really only guide you through touch ups that will be noticeable unless you grind and sand the fixed spot down.

 

NOTE BEFORE: Rust can be a serious problem. Leave most mahor rust to the professionals. I suggest if you suffer rust, get a whole new panel. But its up to you.

 

Materials Needed

Below is a list of the materials needed for the job. I must offer a word of caution to you all before you attempt any auto bodywork. Most products associated with auto body repair are toxic, therefore I stress to you to read all labels carefully and follow the instructions to the letter!

 

• Disposable latex gloves

• Automotive sandable primer

• Kitchen-duty abrasive pad

• Rubber sanding block

• Rust neutralizer/converter

• Finishing sander (optional)

• Artist's brushes

• 80-, 100-, 220-, and 400-grit abrasive sheets

• Goggles

• "Wet or dry" sanding sheet (optional)

• Rusty-metal primer

• Auto-body glazing putty

• Touch-up paint

• Paint respirator

• 60-grit abrasive disc

• Spray paint or aerosol paint sprayer and paint in can

• Disc sanding attachment for drill

• Electric drill

• Spray clear coat

• Painter's masking tape

• Polishing compound w/applicator and soft cloths

• Newspaper

• Auto buffing/waxing machine (optional)

• Mineral spirits and cloth

• Auto wax

Ok, now we can get right into it… my favourite part, the dirty stuff….

 

Small chips affected…

1. prepare the surface

Before you start scrape off all loose paint on the area, you need to make sure that you can see all affected areas of the chip and not have paint near or around the area. You can do this with the abrasive pad. Once the area is clean apply the rust nutraliser/converter evenly onto the affected area with a small brush. Allow the first coat to dry for four to six hours depending on the brand of rust nutraliser/converter, then apply a second coat. Let the whole area sit for at least 24 hrs. Also avoid getting the rust nutraliser/converter onto other areas of the car, if this happens take some soapy water and a rag and scrub down the paint, otherwise the chemicals will eat the paint and damage your car.

 

2. Apply primer

Use a artists brush or a small brush to apply the rusty-metal primer to the area after you have waited 24hrs.

 

TIP: Brush primer in one direction only. Also mix paint and primer really well before applying to any surface of your car.

 

3. Apply Topcoat

Now that your primer is applied you can apply the touch up paint with a brush. Apply several medium coats so you fill and level the chip out. Continue to brush in one dierection and one dierection only. Allow adequate drying time between coats as the label should dierect. Also don’t worry if your touch up paint doesn’t match your cars color. Its impossible to get the match. If you want it done right I suggest you go to a spray painter to finish the work.

 

Small Rusty Area… (good name for a band… )

1. Remove Rust

You can do this using the 60-grit abrasive, sanding, or by grinding the rust off. Wipe the dust away with a very dampened solvent cloth.

 

2. Apply primer

Grab your newspaper and secure it over the area with some painters masking tape. Leave a small hole opened just a few inches/centermeters over the damaged area. Grab your primer-in-a-can and give it a good blasting following the dierections on how to use the primer from the can. Start spraying in the masked area and move it across to the exposed area, then to the masking again before reversing the process. Apply two to three light coats hey.

 

3. Sand Smooth

Sand the area smooth with your grti abrasive sheets, making sure to feather into the surrounding paint. Clean with the rag and then re-prime the area.

 

4. Applying the putty…

Use a plastic spreader to smooth the putty over the entire area. Try and really work it into the area. Wait for the putty to cur after applying it making sure to pick up all primed areas and scratches. Once the putty curs, sand it smooth beginning with 220-grit abrasive and working your way down. Reapply putty to the tiny holes, or other depressions as needed. Complete sanding with 400 grit abrasive.

 

5. Spray it

Wipe the sanded surface clean once again with your dampened solvent cloth. Grab your paint in a can (if your paint doesn’t come in a can get an aerosol bottle that you can refill from a tin of paint.). Reapply the masking tape to the area affected. Still I would suggest leaving paint to the pros…

 

6. Apply the clear coat

Apply clear coat and polish and wax… done

 

 

 

[The-King]

Nice one avito, I added it to the first post. I think it may even help me, I have a 1966 international scout that we are planning on working on pretty soon.~TGK

[Gollumn]

Hey, as you can see I'm very new but I would be willing to help out. I'm very skilled in electrics in cars, bikes act. Also I know my way round an engine. - Gollumn

[anus]

I've got one problem. My dad has a '96 Nissan Sentra FB14, and since recently the water in the water tank becomes really hot and even smoke comes off it, it also makes bubbles. It gets extremely hot when you turn on the A/C. He's been running without water for a couple of days since he forgot so I replaced the water ASAP and it's been doing that ever since, it reaches at least 3/4 of the heat meter in the day and half at night. It also eats up fuel highly. I've added some coolant, but no luck. It's really hot. It also makes a crackling noise when running and struggles when climbing a hilly area. I've checked the whole car to my mechanical knowledge and I couldn't get anything, I'm suspecting the radiator is the problem. I need some quick help please. Thanks for reading this.

[Mega]

I've got one problem. My dad has a '96 Nissan Sentra FB14, and since recently the water in the water tank becomes really hot and even smoke comes off it, it also makes bubbles. It gets extremely hot when you turn on the A/C. He's been running without water for a couple of days since he forgot so I replaced the water ASAP and it's been doing that ever since, it reaches at least 3/4 of the heat meter in the day and half at night. It also eats up fuel highly. I've added some coolant, but no luck. It's really hot. It also makes a crackling noise when running and struggles when climbing a hilly area. I've checked the whole car to my mechanical knowledge and I couldn't get anything, I'm suspecting the radiator is the problem. I need some quick help please. Thanks for reading this.

Really hot. Well, it's a very common problem on cars but it could have many many origins. If it has many miles, it can be the head gasket. It is pretty expensive to replace. Actually the only thing i don't get is why it eats more fuel.

 

If it's not the gasket, it could be:

- your radiator. Check the leaks, if you see some, make a full water purge on your car. Purge: open the expansion tank (should be near the radiator), run your car with AC HOT on. Use a full 5liter cooling water barrel.

- your expansion tank/thermostat : check if there are leaks on it. If no, check if the thermostat is working how it should.

- Secondary fan (for the AC) can be dead aswell. Run your car with AC on for 10-15mins. Stop your car with engine on. Open the hood and see if it's working.

- Secondary's fan sensors. You should have 2. Electronic parts which detect if the cooling is too hot. Run your car with AC on. Let it reach the 3/4 of the heat meter. Then find a straight line try to do at least 80mph. See if the heat meter is going down again. If it's positive, you're sorted.

 

 

I don't know much about sentras etc... It's some general info i gave you. I can't help more. If someone is able to help him better, he is more than welcome.

[meth.]

Well I drive B15. You're running a 50/50 mix right? Try replacing the radiator cap & thermostat. Both should be fairly cheap. You also you might want to conside a complete flush if the coolant is old.

 

If none of that helps it probably is something more serious. So like Pav said check that both fans are working. If not could be a sensor. Also could be a problem with the water pump or belt which will be a bit more expensive to correct.

 

Thats all I have in the idea bank.

[anus]

Thanks for the help, guys. I checked the water hose just for fun and it had a huge leak, I sw my coolant and most of my water spilled there, so I replaced it, I replaced the cap assy along with that and the water belt. But it still reaches half of the heat meter in the morning, I was lost on this, so I checked from the company and they saiod that it needs an AC belt, could this be the problem, I don't know stuff related to air conditioning and stuff at all. The AC is still really cool though. It still makes the crackling noise too.

 

Pav, I checked all those and the only thing the company said is the AC belt.

 

Meth., Radiator cap was replaced a few weeks back , and you can't blame it on the thermostat since you can see the smoke coming out of the grille, and if you open up the hood and touch it, you'll probably catch fire, it's that hot .

 

The fuel is one of the biggest problems, lets say I fill her to full at 10 AM in the morning, then at about 8 PM in the night it's at the line before the E (end) mark. Why the f*ck is this happening? The fuel is costing way too much for this only.

 

I'm scared to drive it now because the heat could cause damage to the engine.

 

I appreciate all the help.

[The-King]

The fuel is one of the biggest problems, lets say I fill her to full at 10 AM in the morning, then at about 8 PM in the night it's at the line before the E (end) mark. Why the f*ck is this happening? The fuel is costing way too much for this only.

Maybe there is a leak in the fuel line.~TGK

[Mega]

Yes. I can't help that much either. Check your spark plugs and injection system, assuming your car is an EFI.

[The-King]

how many miles do you have on it.~TGK

[anus]

Pav, Yeah, I've checked those at the first itself, npothing wrong with them. Injection was fine too. And yes, it's an EFI.

 

King, Checked it, no leaks.

 

He bought it used since FB14 stopped coming here. It had about 60,000 miles when we bought it and now totally it has about 130,000 miles.

 

Btw, I checked the second fan, and it wasn't spinning. I turned it with my hand and it started spinning a little and then stopped. I tried accelerating on neutral and got it to 8000 RPM and then it started spinning, whenever I go fast it spins, so I replaced it and the A/C belt along with it (just incase). Now the heating is fine till now, but it still eats up loads of fuel .

 

Thanks for the help so far. Greatly appreciated.

[Dup]

When the cars cool, take off the oil filler cap and the water coolant cap. If there is any white substance at the top, the head gasket has gone and water is mixing with the oil.