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Case- & Hardware Modding

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HaRdSTyLe_83
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#61

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by HaRdSTyLe_83, 2 weeks ago.

Search for any local laser cutters to you. There should be at least one. If not, try contacting ColdZero in Portugal. I've bought many pieces from them for my Corsair 900D. I think they'll do custom laser cutting if you provide them the models.


i already spoke with them before, he makes a gpu backplate with the same type of artic cammo of my motherboard, but i dont know if i want to mess with the gpu

made a new window for my case but i still dont know how im going to make it stay there without using some screws :/ it doesnt look very professional, but for under 10$ i cant really be mad lol

38l4PiW.jpg

 

still need to take the rivets from the hdd trays, but ill do that only once i have some parts to make a watercooled loop

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Natasha
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#62

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by Natz_83, 2 weeks ago.

I can't say anyting cause I can't do this but the cables going into the graphics card could be tidied I would think, no?

Here's a really helpful guide:

Spoiler

Honestly, that must require the patience of a Saint!

HaRdSTyLe_83
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#63

Posted 2 weeks ago

yeh, still waiting on the 6+2 pci sleeved cable and some cable combs that i ordered, to lazy to do it myself :p

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Noale
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#64

Posted 2 weeks ago

Photo guide on cutting aluminum by hand. Posted an overview on the member forum, but here's all steps.

 

Cutting this for another project (not for a PC, but tech related I suppose). 10mm and 6mm thick 6061 aluminum plate. (You can cut upwards of 25mm/1" like this with cutting fluid and going SLOWLY. Roughly a couple millimeters per second slow. :lol: )
 
7AApBVD.jpg
 
Roughly cut out the 10mm piece with a jigsaw. This was no fun. :lol: It won't come out with a pretty edge, so it'll need a lot more work. Just cut 1-2mm from your line to be safe. The rest will be filed off.
 
RIoUXwu.jpg
 
From there, I started filing it as straight as I can. Won't be perfect, but it'll be good enough. You're going to want to use a mask when filing/grinding/sanding. Or preferably anytime you work with alu. Take a guess at how bad aluminum dust is for ya. Yeah. Pretty f*cking bad.  :lol:
 
BCL40W6.jpg
 
During the rough filing, I'd jot the high spots with a marker. Then go over it with the file, and repeat the process until it's visibly flat. Grind grind grind!
 
v3TVdT5.jpg
 
Moving onto a finer filer to get most of the deeper scratches out.
 
A4a1g9w.jpg
 
Wetsanding starting with 320 grit.
 
ymOVk5O.jpg
 
320 wetsanded. Compared to the initial rough cut finish. I was planning on going up to 1000-1500 and pulling out my bench buffer to polish it, but this dull finish with 320 looks quite nice I may keep it.
 
sOTcQEf.jpg
 
On this episode of Attack of the Metal Tentacles, I drill a .5" pivot hole.
 
ZniKx7c.jpg
 
Cut out a pocket to reduce some mass in the thing. Draw your cutout then drill a hole on the inside (far from the drawn edge) to insert your jigsaw. I finished the inner edges the same way as the outer.
 
flk3OVy.jpg
 
More weight reduction. .5" holes for fingering.
 
D6zxHIT.jpg
 
Working on the side plates. These parts will be identical so after I rough cut them, I clamped both on the vise and filed them together to ensure they were as close to identical as possible. The filed edge looked like one piece, so I guess I got close enough.
 
FIvExYc.jpg
 
L6mmvxz.jpg
 
Drilling & countersinking some holes. Screws will pass through here and thread into rods, which will hold the two pieces apart. Again, I take advantage of these being identical pieces and clamp them together to make sure everything lines up.
 
yQeq9VU.jpg
 
#8-32 tap into .5" aluminum rods. Phallic shaped objects make slip on your vise so wrap a towel around it.
 
BFu6W5U.jpg
 
The finish on the rods were fairly scratched and plain. To get a cleaner finish, I stuck the rod (with tap) into the press and held some 220-320 sandpaper around the rotating piece. :lol: This is definitely ghetto. Potentially unsafe. Don't get your fingers caught in the chuck.
 
gFhAQPE.jpg
 
Voila. Ghetto lathe turned finish.  :lol:
 
5fwfy9J.jpg
 
Stock finish, meet ghetto turned finish.
 
WRQQmiZ.jpg
 
Topus91.jpg
 
What could it be?
 
COx795P.jpg
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Azazel
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#65

Posted 2 weeks ago

What could it be?


My first thought was a sequential shifter of some sorts, or a handbrake assembly. Looks gorgeous either way. :)

sivispacem
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#66

Posted 2 weeks ago

I was going to use the phrase "e-brake" for the first time in my life. Though obviously I mean "hydraulic handbrake".

Noale
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#67

Posted 2 weeks ago

Correcto! Handbrake is correct. A vertical one, although no hydraulics here as it won't be for vehicle use. Hoping to mount it to a racing sim setup I'm slowly building.

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HaRdSTyLe_83
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#68

Posted A week ago Edited by HaRdSTyLe_83, A week ago.

 hdd trays are gone :p now i have some space to start my first watercooling project

 

been looking into Ek and Xspc, any advice for the pump/reservoir combo? D5 or DDC ? 

 

GN992eL.jpg

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Natasha
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#69

Posted A week ago

That's like artwork. If I had room to have a larger case I'd consider tidying up my cables :lol:

Noale
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#70

Posted A week ago

D5 or DDC is fine. I had a small DDC pump for my ITX build, and it was quite loud though. The DDC pumps are usually more compact, which was a requirement for me, but I don't think that will be an issue for you.

 

Personally, I'm going back to air cooling. As much as I put into modding, I still prefer simplicity and ease of maintenance for a personal build.


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#71

Posted A week ago

Continuation of the handbrake assembly. Here's the rear plate close to completion. The switch is an IR break beam sensor which connects via USB. I tapped some extra threads for thumbscrews to act as cable holds so that it doesn't get accidentally pulled off.

 

xJatAjY.jpg

 

pq9rdFj.jpg

 

9tsdmWU.jpg

 

Handle mocked up with a short shaft and checking out possible spring placement. I'm still waiting on spring anchors to arrive before I can mount them. (they won't sit at the angle in the photo, but rather downwards towards the center screw)

0Rok74Q.jpg

 

Main shaft in & locked to center.

fA9aPEU.jpg

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HaRdSTyLe_83
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#72

Posted 6 days ago Edited by HaRdSTyLe_83, 4 days ago.

ghetto mod 101 cut white plexi to cover some parts, ended up using superglue to make it stick in place lol

 

qBAmQZj.jpg

 

and to cover the Psu cables

 

5kZC1EM.jpg

 

is it just me who feels like a women trying to fit inside a corset everytime i try to close my back panel? alot of skeezing and holding my breath :)

 

edit: what radiators you are using in the manta? i thought about starting small and just use the SE 240 (26mm thikness) on the top and leave the front space for the pump/res but i dont think its enough for the future if i want to do the gpu.

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Noale
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#73

Posted 4 days ago

 

edit: what radiators you are using in the manta? i thought about starting small and just use the SE 240 (26mm thikness) on the top and leave the front space for the pump/res but i dont think its enough for the future if i want to do the gpu.

 

That's a question for Azazel. My Manta will be aircooled, provided I even finish it. That project has been on the backburner for me.

 

I did use a slim radiator on my last build, which was an Alphacool 240 ST30 (30mm thickness). I only had a CPU on it (5820K), and I wouldn't recommend more than one component on a slim 240 radiator.


HaRdSTyLe_83
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#74

Posted 3 days ago Edited by HaRdSTyLe_83, 3 days ago.

yeah, on ekwb configurator it recomends at least a slim 360 for both gpu and cpu (cooling power of 299w for the 275w of the system) but it leaves very little room, so ill probably go with the SE240 on top + SE360 in the front and just reduce the size of the reservoir so it can all fit there


Azazel
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#75

Posted 3 days ago Edited by Azazel, 2 days ago. Reading.

yeah, on ekwb configurator it recomends at least a slim 360 for both gpu and cpu (cooling power of 299w for the 275w of the system) but it leaves very little room, so ill probably go with the SE240 on top + SE360 in the front and just reduce the size of the reservoir so it can all fit there


It can't take a 360 in the front I'm afraid (the height of the 'inner' chassis is only ~340mm top to bottom). The largest you'll be able to fit is a 280, and you'll need to remove the top of the chassis to maneuver it in. Think I read that wrong, haha. You're shopping rads for your S340, of course. Doh. I'm running an EK SE240 in the top, which is about the largest you can squeeze in a Manta, and a CE280 in the front.

 

I only have pleasant experiences with EK's radiators, in all their pre-cleaned goodness. I always flush them out before use, but I've never witnessed any gunk or debris in any of them.

 

I try to keep all the water cooling components of the same make and materials , to limit the various metals interacting with the fluid. Mixing too many copper and nickel coatings, and aluminium radiators will almost always affect the fluid in some way or the other, especially some of the pastel/opague fluids on the market.

 

If you can squeee a PWM D5 combo in there, I'd do it. It runs much quieter than the DDC.





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