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Help with first car

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Warlord.
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#1

Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:12 AM Edited by Warlord., 02 March 2013 - 08:27 AM.

Alright guys, so I might be getting a car soon. This will be my first car. I'm willing to spend up to $1000 AUD.

What should I get? Reliability, fuel consumption (would prefer if the car ran on gas as I've heard it's a lot cheaper) and comfort is all I care about really.

I'm in Melbourne btw.

Thanks in advance, everyone. smile.gif

Edit: Oh and it should be cheap to maintain.

Piperka
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#2

Posted 02 March 2013 - 10:45 AM

Stretch your budget 5x and you might find something of that criteria. icon14.gif

Chris CJ Jakobsson
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#3

Posted 02 March 2013 - 11:03 AM

saab or volvo is my suggestion (im not sure what they costt in australia tho) or maybe some Opel colgate.gif

Pavlov
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#4

Posted 02 March 2013 - 11:08 AM

THEY DON'T HAVE OPELS THERE. (appreciate my capslock)

Chris CJ Jakobsson
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#5

Posted 02 March 2013 - 11:18 AM

Oh yeah , Holden then?

Piperka
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Posted 02 March 2013 - 01:38 PM

QUOTE (Pavlov @ Saturday, Mar 2 2013, 19:08)
THEY DON'T HAVE OPELS THERE. (appreciate my capslock)

We do now; astra, corsa and insignia.

Pavlov
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#7

Posted 02 March 2013 - 06:42 PM

Not in the 1 grand budget wink.gif

Warlord.
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#8

Posted 02 March 2013 - 11:45 PM Edited by Warlord., 02 March 2013 - 11:54 PM.

Well I'm basically looking for something that meets my requirements best for my budget. It doesn't have to be the most reliable, most comfortable, most fuel efficient car.

Oh and there's no way I'm gonna be paying 5k or more for a first car. Especially since I only need it for moving from point A to point B (mostly uni and work and back).

What do you guys think of these?

Manual '96 V6 Camry 242000 km

98 Subaru Liberty AWD

98 Hyundai Sonata

99 Festiva hatch

92 Accord $500

94 Mazda 626 303028km $500

Oh and should I go for a car that has RWC and registration? Is not having RWC something to be concerned about?

Is it better to buy from a used car dealer?

Is it better to buy a cheap, yet older car (like late 80s early 90s) and save the rest for repairs/maintenance?

Does older car = less reliable?

Coat.
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#9

Posted 02 March 2013 - 11:56 PM

QUOTE
Oh and should I go for a car that has RWC and registration? Is not having RWC something to be concerned about?


Yes, you should defiantly go for a car with RWC. If you don't and it has problems, RTA (I think?) will keep it under inspection and fine you on it's faults. I think you might want to check out a 1980's Holden Commedore Sedan. It seems to fit what you're looking for.

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#10

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:05 AM

QUOTE (Warlord. @ Saturday, Mar 2 2013, 23:45)
Manual '96 V6 Camry 242000 km

my choise

Raavi
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#11

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:19 AM

QUOTE (Chris CJ Jakobsson @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:05)
QUOTE (Warlord. @ Saturday, Mar 2 2013, 23:45)
Manual '96 V6 Camry 242000 km

my choise

Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter". You'll end up paying more for repairs than you payed for the actual car. And when you try to get rid of it, well good luck with that. Buying cheap is expensive.

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#12

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:26 AM Edited by Garfield 2, 03 March 2013 - 12:29 AM.

QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 00:19)
QUOTE (Chris CJ Jakobsson @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:05)
QUOTE (Warlord. @ Saturday, Mar 2 2013, 23:45)
Manual '96 V6 Camry 242000 km

my choise

Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter". You'll end up paying more for repairs than you payed for the actual car. And when you try to get rid of it, well good luck with that. Buying cheap is expensive.

HAHA!

That's all I got to say. I don't know where you are from, but in Germany, Poland, Ireland, UK most cars that are 4 years old have already exceeded that mileage. And we don't buy junk.

http://www.carzone.i...rt?channel=CARS
http://www.carzone.i...rt?channel=CARS
http://www.carzone.i...rt?channel=CARS

I've no idea what's it like in Australia, but in Europe people CARE ABOUT THEIR CARS and MAINTAIN THEM.

Raavi
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#13

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:43 AM Edited by Raavi, 03 March 2013 - 12:47 AM.

QUOTE (Garfield 2 @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:26)
QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 00:19)
QUOTE (Chris CJ Jakobsson @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:05)
QUOTE (Warlord. @ Saturday, Mar 2 2013, 23:45)
Manual '96 V6 Camry 242000 km

my choise

Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter". You'll end up paying more for repairs than you payed for the actual car. And when you try to get rid of it, well good luck with that. Buying cheap is expensive.

HAHA!

That's all I got to say. I don't know where you are from, but in Germany, Poland, Ireland, UK most cars that are 4 years old have already exceeded that mileage. And we don't buy junk.

I don't know in what price-range you are talking. But, just take a look at used cars sites (I just did) you find a lot of good deals for 3/4 year old cars with milages well below 150k or even below 100k km well under 15k. My grandfather had a few car workshops and he was a mechanic himself actually and he always recommend people to never buy a car with 150k + km since they wouldn't be able to sell it for a decent price and would end up paying more for repairs and new parts than the actual cost of the car. Cars last longer now, sure but we are talking about badly maintained pre-2000 cars here. So that still applies for him.

Raavi
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#14

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:50 AM

Germany you say?

http://www.autoscout...e&zipc=D&desc=1

Pavlov
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#15

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:50 AM

Anything reliable from the 90s with simple electrics and electronics will mostly be bulletproof until the wheels fall off, or so to say circa 350 000 - 400 000kms. If properly maintained, and electrics/electronics didnt go mad during the first ten years of usage, you are good to clock a lot of kilometers on the car. This is a generic example, but in most cases it is like this.

Michaś
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#16

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:52 AM

QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 00:50)
Germany you say?

http://www.autoscout...e&zipc=D&desc=1


http://www.autoscout...sc=1&sort=price

Your point is invalid.

Raavi
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#17

Posted 03 March 2013 - 01:15 AM

QUOTE (Garfield 2 @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:52)
QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 00:50)
Germany you say?

http://www.autoscout...e&zipc=D&desc=1


http://www.autoscout...sc=1&sort=price

Your point is invalid.

I rather buy a new car anyway but if I would buy a used one I would get one with a very low milage that way I can sell it after 1.5/2 years or so without losing too much. But that's up to everyone individually.. Anyways let's get back on topic shall we.

I looked up some Aussie used car sites and man used cars over there are expensive in comparison to Europe and the US. If you want all that you posted in the OP you should multiply your budget at least by 5, like Piperka already said. Also don't rush your first car. Better save up a few months longer and buy a somewhat more decent one.

Lurch
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#18

Posted 03 March 2013 - 05:29 AM Edited by Lurch, 03 March 2013 - 07:12 AM.

From personal experience, I am starting to think Raavi is totally full of sh*t. My $200 300,000+ mile BMW seems to have been pretty reliable transportation for the past 3 years.



Do you even have a lick of experience in this department or even get the concept of basic transportation?


"don't buy that 1k car bro because it has more than 175,000 km. Instead buy a 3-4 year old car for $15k". Your logic is so f*cked it's making my head hurt. Next post I'm just going to post nothing but expletives.

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#19

Posted 03 March 2013 - 05:46 AM

QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 00:19)
Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter". You'll end up paying more for repairs than you payed for the actual car. And when you try to get rid of it, well good luck with that. Buying cheap is expensive.

Wait, what?

150-175k km is around 100k miles. I bought my Burb back in 2011 at 180k miles and since then the only repairs it's needed was a starter and an idler pulley.

So "spending more on repairs" is less than $100? Sounds good to me.

Carlover325
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#20

Posted 03 March 2013 - 07:54 AM Edited by Carlover325, 03 March 2013 - 08:00 AM.

175,000 km = 108,000 miles, which is nothing. That's barely broken in for a lot of cars.

Out of that list the one to avoid at all costs is the Hyundai Sonata. Old Hyundais are garbage. Don't know much about the Ford Festiva, I've seen them around but know nothing about them. All the others are very decent cars as long as they are well-maintained.

@Burbalade: My uncle used to have a 1996 Suburban, it had 680,000 miles on it. Original 5.7 V8, second transmission. It was still running until he was stopped at a red light when the person behind him refused to stop. It pushed the rear axle up onto the hood of the car that rear ended him, and made him smack into the truck in front of him. Insurance totaled it. That happened a little over a year ago.

sivispacem
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#21

Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:11 AM

QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:19)
Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter".

Worst advice ever.

Always ignore mileage and buy on history and condition. Several hundred thousand miles is entirely irrelevant to a well-maintained engine.

Chris CJ Jakobsson
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#22

Posted 03 March 2013 - 11:55 AM

Oh, just buy a Volvo, those will run for ever, some guy in New York drove 3,000,000 miles (of course he maintained that well)


My neighbur have 740, thats driven 500,000 Km, still runs, with out problem

ryuclan
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#23

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:08 PM Edited by ryuclan, 03 March 2013 - 12:16 PM.

QUOTE (Chris CJ Jakobsson @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 11:55)
Oh, just buy a Volvo, those will run for ever, some guy in New York drove 3,000,000 miles (of course he maintained that well)


My neighbur have 740, thats driven 500,000 Km, still runs, with out problem

I don't know if that is an outlier rather than the norm.


Anyway if an early 90's vehicle wasn't maintained well it will be obvious on a test drive. I wouldn't harp too much on mileage because that doesn't tell the entire story. Look underneath the hood. If the vehicle has over 150k miles does the spark plug wires look really old and worn? Is the trans fluid dark? What does the oil change sticker say? Does the serpentine belt look like snake skin? Is the coolant recovery tank full of mud? All these things will help you figure out how well the vehicle has been maintained. If you can bring a flashlight and fit underneath the vehicle, look for leaks. These are all small maintenance items that people who don't really care about their cars let go.


I can't count how many people I have seen come through the shop with leaking cam covers, front and rear main seals. Belts look like sh*t....they don't care. Be thorough.

From your list I would look into the Accord, Festiva, or Subuaru. Hondas are usually very reliable and cheap to buy parts for. The Festivais easy to work on, low key, and gets decent gas mileage. The subaru is pretty durable, and all wheel drive. Potential for some fun.

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#24

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:18 PM

QUOTE (sivispacem @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 10:11)
QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:19)
Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter".

Worst advice ever.

Always ignore mileage and buy on history and condition. Several hundred thousand miles is entirely irrelevant to a well-maintained engine.

Everyone has had different experiences. I had a few not so great experiences with used cars. One can make it look like a car and what is under the hood is well maintained but in reality that is not the case. It all depends on who you buy the car from, the actual car and where you buy it. If you buy it at a well known licensed dealership or from a random guy makes a huge difference. I learned that the hard way. And as far as milage goes, yes that depends on a lot of factors. If everything under the hood meaning the whole car is A-ok and preferrably checked out by someone that knows what he is talking about than you can safely, certainly in today's day and age buy a 150k km+ car. So I stand corrected.



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#25

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:23 PM

QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 12:18)
QUOTE (sivispacem @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 10:11)
QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:19)
Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter".

Worst advice ever.

Always ignore mileage and buy on history and condition. Several hundred thousand miles is entirely irrelevant to a well-maintained engine.

Everyone has had different experiences. I had a few not so great experiences with used cars. One can make it look like a car and what is under the hood is well maintained but in reality that is not the case. It all depends on who you buy the car from, the actual car and where you buy it. If you buy it at a well known licensed dealership or from a random guy makes a huge difference. I learned that the hard way. And as far as milage goes, yes that depends on a lot of factors. If everything under the hood meaning the whole car is A-ok and preferrably checked out by someone that knows what he is talking about than you can safely, certainly in today's day and age buy a 150k km+ car. So I stand corrected.

It depends on location too. This guy lives in Australia so he can buy an older car with a lot more miles and have less worry. Where I live it snows half the year and the state puts down waay to much salt on the roads. This usually means that buying an early 90s vehicle is practically just buying a big rusting timebomb. It really sucks that any classic vehicle you find will need extensive body work, but thats just how it is.

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#26

Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:25 PM

QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 13:18)
QUOTE (sivispacem @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 10:11)
QUOTE (Raavi @ Sunday, Mar 3 2013, 01:19)
Never buy a used car that has over 175k or preferably 150k KM "on the counter".

Worst advice ever.

Always ignore mileage and buy on history and condition. Several hundred thousand miles is entirely irrelevant to a well-maintained engine.

Everyone has had different experiences. I had a few not so great experiences with used cars. One can make it look like a car and what is under the hood is well maintained but in reality that is not the case. It all depends on who you buy the car from, the actual car and where you buy it. If you buy it at a well known licensed dealership or from a random guy makes a huge difference. I learned that the hard way. And as far as milage goes, yes that depends on a lot of factors. If everything under the hood meaning the whole car is A-ok and preferrably checked out by someone that knows what he is talking about than you can safely, certainly in today's day and age buy a 150k km+ car. So I stand corrected.

The problem is, you didn't buy a car that was hopeless because it had x number of miles or kilometres on the clock. You bought a car that was hopeless because it was a dog. The mileage has absolutely nothing to do with it, hence why I called out your misleading statement which basically said in no uncertain terms "everything with more than 100,000 miles on the clock will be broken".

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#27

Posted 06 March 2013 - 07:41 AM Edited by Warlord., 06 March 2013 - 08:40 AM.

Thanks for all the help guys. Especially you, ryu. I'll keep everything you said in mind when checking out the car. Thanks for the heads up on the RWC as well, Coat!

Oh and you too sivis. I've always thought that mileage doesn't really matter much if the car is well maintained, but wasn't really sure since it was just something that popped into my head.

Oh and is it a good idea to bring the car to a dealership to get it checked out? Are there any must-do things right after buying a used car? Like changing the oil filter or something?

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#28

Posted 06 March 2013 - 08:20 AM

QUOTE (Warlord. @ Wednesday, Mar 6 2013, 08:41)
Oh and is it a good idea to bring the car to a dealership to get it checked out? Are there any must-do things right after buying a used car? Like changing the oil filter or something?

That's certainly a very good idea. Even better, give it the full package - new air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, etc. Especially if the car's service history is a bit dodgy.

It's also important to check when the drive belt, belt tensioners and water pump were last replaced. If you can't find any documentation on this, replace them just to be sure - some engines bend valves and can sieze up completely if the belt snaps. In case the engine's chain driven, listen for rattling or other suspicious noises, as these are usually very expensive to replace. smile.gif

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#29

Posted 06 March 2013 - 08:51 AM

As long as the dealership you bring it to is reputable. I have a dealership near me that I brought my Jeep in to get an oil change. They perform their "courtesy inspection", and found a supposed $1400 worth of work. Everything they listed they wanted to charge an astronomical amount for, and only 1/3 of the list really needed to be done.

I called called the service manager a crooked sleazeball and left. Here's a scan of my receipt including recommendations:
user posted image

$342 for spark plugs, cap & rotor, and wires, lol. It's an easy 1/2 hour job (which I did myself). Just did them again this week, and it cost me $60 for 6 spark plugs, cap & rotor, and ignition wires. Got the Accel Tune-up kit off Amazon. Good quality stuff, too.

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#30

Posted 06 March 2013 - 12:13 PM

Haha Carlover that is crazy. All at 85k too, but you have to realize that the companies that sale those flush kits push hard for us to sell their wares. Right this moment we have a competition going going on to see who can sell the most BG flush kits.




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