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[TimeCycIV] Tutorial

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raggazam
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#181

Posted 11 August 2013 - 10:28 PM

Paquets in visualsettings.dat??


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#182

Posted 20 August 2013 - 05:29 PM

Not quite sure how to adjust it, have tried quite a few times. Falloff?

PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#183

Posted 03 September 2013 - 06:43 PM

Really looking for help with the coronas in my settings. They are like a large spherical bulb and nothing I do can change them.

Changing files does not appear to help:
iceshader.fx / timecyc.dat / iceconfig.ini / stock BMP or PNG spritelights or spriterays, default corona texture (in data\textures), lights settings in INI don't appear to help, I changed the following previously:

Light occluders (Vanni's star Junction fix)
Stock/Non-stock Corona texture (pc\data\textures\)
Different ENB's help, but I think it's texture based because I installed DanSVW's Simple ENB for Realistic Lighting...on a secondary machine, but with my files ie.: cars, textures etc. and to some degree, albeit lesser, the problem transferred. I can't seem to narrow it down. Any thoughts on the matter would be great.

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#184

Posted 27 October 2013 - 10:41 PM Edited by jpm1, 27 October 2013 - 10:43 PM.

after several tests i came to the conclusion that mid grey value corresponds to global luminosity and luminosity doesn't correspond to luminosity but to luminosity radiation intensity . concerning the exposure i use it myself only to increase decrease environmental lights halo (for example i'll increase it when weather has humidity and decrease it when weather's dry)


jpm1
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#185

Posted 11 November 2013 - 06:47 PM

i wonder how the guy did this , there are several colors in the sky

1378270128_1.jpg

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jpm1
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#186

Posted 13 November 2013 - 07:45 PM Edited by jpm1, 13 November 2013 - 07:45 PM.

in Sun section seems that multiplier is the reflection intensity of the sun on reflective environment objects . here

 

low value

GTAIV2013-11-1319-20-28-67_zpsbe3d8901.j

 

high value

GTAIV2013-11-1319-20-12-65_zpsad9bac5f.j

 

low

GTAIV2013-11-1319-21-32-34_zpsfc2b8daf.j

 

high

GTAIV2013-11-1319-21-19-43_zpsc957366c.j


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#187

Posted 15 November 2013 - 08:54 AM



i wonder how the guy did this , there are several colors in the sky

1378270128_1.jpg

 

Who's set is it? Looks like he's using a proper RGB texture. Alot of stupid ENB's these days have one BMP file texture, without seperated RGB textures that are different on each layer. Making clouds with these "picture" type textures does not reflect the engine's ability to create contoured clouds.

 

Looks like a simple RGB texture, added with a proper skydome, like DKT does it, and adding RGB Saturate values for top and bottom clouds in Unknown section while using good incremental values like (RGB) 0.1  0.2 0.3 for both top and bottom. AUIRB2U was impossible to configure while the gamma setting in the FX was in play. Once removed, clouds were much simpler to work with and using mirrored values (as above) for top and bottom produced very good results, this is from a private AUIRB2U setting that I uploaded to 4-mods but everyone sh*t on so I removed it, and all the stuff I put up there:

 

001ffd283238361.jpg 001ffd283238395.jpg 

c644c4283668460.jpg 52cb17283692972.jpg 

 

Others:

http://www.imagebam....c30fcd281056270

http://www.imagebam....5831bb281056325

http://www.imagebam....6132e5282145043

http://www.imagebam....123724282145085

 


 


jpm1
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#188

Posted 16 November 2013 - 06:31 PM

i don t know the set , this is a graffiti mod .i m on small tablet now i ll check your screens later , but they look pretty good ..

PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#189

Posted 18 November 2013 - 10:30 PM

Here's something I put on GTAMad recently. As well, I've uploaded my timecyc package that I use. Not perfect, but more info 

 

Ambient0
Needs to be darker, less saturated color. Multiplier dictates how dark / light the shadows are. Hue 141 at about 34 Saturation, 84 Lum x 8 for about 9AM. It depends on the FX files as well, as the multipliers / pre-multipliers could be cranked, normal, low. Higher multiplier + low sat + not too dark helps brighten up underpasses, shadows.
 
Ambient1
Needs to be bright, fully saturated to 240 and usually needs to be a color that blends well with Ambient0 and Sky Top and Bottom Color. For cloudy/rainy days I use 141 Hue, 240 Saturation and 204 - 224 Lum. Fully saturated and you should get reflections in the windows. Combined with whatever global reflection multiplier in timecyc and INI you use. I had good results using a slightly different hue, 25 for Amb1 during sunny days, which was using DirectLight hue 24 to make the day feel really sunny. Blues, hue 141 or 152 for Ambient1 during sunny weathers create a "cold" feeling to the day. Good for car stuff, not for actual gameplay / sunny day feel IMHO.
 
Direct Color
The color needed to make it feel like the time / weather you're in. Sunny? Hue 24, 240 Saturation, 204 Lum is what I've been using. Direct Light for 7AM: Orange about 24 hue. 7PM? About the same, but more saturated, darker. Sometimes browns, like hue 18 is good for nightimes, dark, about 24-44 Lum, to help darken the picture so as to not have to use alot of Exposure. 
 
3b778c281717186.jpg 6d6694281717196.jpg 
91212e281717206.jpg
f9fcdb281718695.jpg 
 
Tips & Techniques:
Exposure:
 
Don't use very much Exposure in timecyc. Depends on FX files of course. Too much exposure makes it dark when you look at the sun. I changed mine from 0.5 to 0.1 after my stupid gamma problem was fixed. To make dark, lower Amb0 + 1 + DirectLight multipliers, Lum (Dark, Dark, Dark). 
 
Fog
To make use of fog, use Distance Fog to start at the distance you want to "Start" fogging but keep in mind, that if you do use fog, you must use not very saturated colors in the Sky colors area or the whole screen looks garbage. And how dark the colors are in the Sky colors Top Color area dictates where the fog "appears."  Sky Bottom color Dictates what color the fog is. With the right colors, you can start at even 98, which gives a really realistic distance effect. Azumith + Brightness Sky (first entry) I always turn Brightness Sky to 0 so that I don't have to deal with fog + reflections from water being amplified uncontrollably by azumith.
 
Color Multipliers
If you watch different times closely while you're editing, and adjust multipliers while in between pillars on the big buildings, you will notice that if you increase the multiplier on Ambien0, so that shadow is almost as bright as the effect from Ambient1, couple with the right multiplier for DirectLight, you will create a type of pseudo-global lighting effect. Very nice.
 
Skylighting Multiplier + Personal Colors + Lum
Don't forget that DirectLight, and sometimes Amb0 or Amb1 cannot overpower Skylighting otherwise you will lose reflections. This is entirely dependant on the set. The answer is to decrease multipliers or other parts of Amb0, Amb1 or DirectLighting instead of increasing Skylighting multiplier because too much multiplier can make everything too shiny. 
 
Water:
Dark, little color. I would type in 160 for hue then 0 everything out, then in the green RGB code boxes, type 3 in the green box. Leave it as is. In Unknown Values in the timecyc, there is a water reflection setting, set to 2 for max reflections, less for less. Note: Azumith + Brightness Sky (first entry) I always turn Brightness Sky to 0 so that I don't have to deal with fog + reflections from water being amplified uncontrollably by azumith.
 
Others:
Do yourself a favor, and start everything except shadows with a 1 in the enbseries.ini. Learned this the hard way. Also, pass your .FX file to a FX file guru first. Guess what? The last 14 months. A waste of life. My .FX file had a gamma control that messed up the settings in such a way it was impossible to get good results until it was deleted. I wish I would have known over a year ago. Bing, bang, boom, settings are easy to do now. 
 
Bottom Line: With a little experiencing and tips from here and there, editing should be easy if you're okay with colors and observations in real life. If it's not, chances are your set was way out of spec to start, and you're wasting time adjusting to compensate for that. 
 
 
More when Possible...
 
 

Ambient0
Needs to be darker, less saturated color. Multiplier dictates how dark / light the shadows are. Hue 141 at about 34 Saturation, 84 Lum x 8 for about 9AM. It depends on the FX files as well, as the multipliers / pre-multipliers could be cranked, normal, low. Higher multiplier + low sat + not too dark helps brighten up underpasses, shadows.
 
Ambient1
Needs to be bright, fully saturated to 240 and usually needs to be a color that blends well with Ambient0 and Sky Top and Bottom Color. For cloudy/rainy days I use 141 Hue, 240 Saturation and 204 - 224 Lum. Fully saturated and you should get reflections in the windows. Combined with whatever global reflection multiplier in timecyc and INI you use. I had good results using a slightly different hue, 25 for Amb1 during sunny days, which was using DirectLight hue 24 to make the day feel really sunny. Blues, hue 141 or 152 for Ambient1 during sunny weathers create a "cold" feeling to the day. Good for car stuff, not for actual gameplay / sunny day feel IMHO.
 
Direct Color
The color needed to make it feel like the time / weather you're in. Sunny? Hue 24, 240 Saturation, 204 Lum is what I've been using. Direct Light for 7AM: Orange about 24 hue. 7PM? About the same, but more saturated, darker. Sometimes browns, like hue 18 is good for nightimes, dark, about 24-44 Lum, to help darken the picture so as to not have to use alot of Exposure. 
 
3b778c281717186.jpg 6d6694281717196.jpg 
91212e281717206.jpg
f9fcdb281718695.jpg 
 
Tips & Techniques:
Exposure:
 
Don't use very much Exposure in timecyc. Depends on FX files of course. Too much exposure makes it dark when you look at the sun. I changed mine from 0.5 to 0.1 after my stupid gamma problem was fixed. To make dark, lower Amb0 + 1 + DirectLight multipliers, Lum (Dark, Dark, Dark). 
 
Fog
To make use of fog, use Distance Fog to start at the distance you want to "Start" fogging but keep in mind, that if you do use fog, you must use not very saturated colors in the Sky colors area or the whole screen looks garbage. And how dark the colors are in the Sky colors Top Color area dictates where the fog "appears."  Sky Bottom color Dictates what color the fog is. With the right colors, you can start at even 98, which gives a really realistic distance effect. Azumith + Brightness Sky (first entry) I always turn Brightness Sky to 0 so that I don't have to deal with fog + reflections from water being amplified uncontrollably by azumith.
 
Color Multipliers
If you watch different times closely while you're editing, and adjust multipliers while in between pillars on the big buildings, you will notice that if you increase the multiplier on Ambien0, so that shadow is almost as bright as the effect from Ambient1, couple with the right multiplier for DirectLight, you will create a type of pseudo-global lighting effect. Very nice.
 
Skylighting Multiplier + Personal Colors + Lum
Don't forget that DirectLight, and sometimes Amb0 or Amb1 cannot overpower Skylighting otherwise you will lose reflections. This is entirely dependant on the set. The answer is to decrease multipliers or other parts of Amb0, Amb1 or DirectLighting instead of increasing Skylighting multiplier because too much multiplier can make everything too shiny. 
 
Water:
Dark, little color. I would type in 160 for hue then 0 everything out, then in the green RGB code boxes, type 3 in the green box. Leave it as is. In Unknown Values in the timecyc, there is a water reflection setting, set to 2 for max reflections, less for less. Note: Azumith + Brightness Sky (first entry) I always turn Brightness Sky to 0 so that I don't have to deal with fog + reflections from water being amplified uncontrollably by azumith.
 
Others:
Do yourself a favor, and start everything except shadows with a 1 in the enbseries.ini. Learned this the hard way. Also, pass your .FX file to a FX file guru first. Guess what? The last 14 months. A waste of life. My .FX file had a gamma control that messed up the settings in such a way it was impossible to get good results until it was deleted. I wish I would have known over a year ago. Bing, bang, boom, settings are easy to do now. 
 
Bottom Line: With a little experiencing and tips from here and there, editing should be easy if you're okay with colors and observations in real life. If it's not, chances are your set was way out of spec to start, and you're wasting time adjusting to compensate for that. 
 
 
More when Possible...
 
TimecycIV Files I use
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boxmonster
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#190

Posted 19 November 2013 - 04:19 AM Edited by boxmonster, 19 November 2013 - 04:21 AM.

Don't quite agree with you there.

 

What I do is make the Ambient0 and Ambient1 have the same multiplier value and make them the same color since Ambient0 (in a nutshell) controls shadow colors for horizontal surfaces while Ambient1 controls vertical shadow shadow colors. Say, you wouldn't wan't a bright yellow shaded side of a building to cast a dark blue shadow on the ground, the lighting would look bizarre.

 

For getting the RGB color, I go in game and take a screenshot at that specific time and average the bottom and top sky colors (or if you're lazy, pick somewhere in the middle of the sky gradient) (also be sure to turn off fog) and change the luminosity value to 120, a neutral value (I recommend you do this with every other thing that uses a RGB input, with the exception of Water Color). Increase the multiplier values if the color is too dark (that's what they're there for). I also use that value for Fog Color. Some people might want a brownish/greener for Water Color but for consistency and ease I just use the same value and desaturate and knock the lumosity down by a constant amount. You might want to also knock down the saturation value for Ambient0 and Ambient1 to account for noise but I like the colorful effect. And DirectLight is the color the sun emits and since the sun in the game is mostly a white ball, it's best to just eyeball what color looks right and remember to have the luminosity of that color to 120 and the color multiplier should be a number higher than Ambient0/Ambient1.

 

Exposure is hard to figure out since the exposure system is so bad, the biggest thing is to make sure no part of the map gets to be pure white or black at any time of the day and try to make it the same for every weather and time. I even actually made the Sky multiplier have the same value as the Ambient0 and 1 ones with my exposure setup, further speeding up the timecyc making process.

 

I would say more but I'm pretty rusty as I haven't worked on that file in a long time, check out version 2.0 of my timecyc mod though, I basically follow all those rules. I am satisfied with it as I haven't worked on it since but it doesn't really work with color correction as the colors emitted by the sky are more powerful than they should be and are less affected by color correction than everything else (but as the purpose of my mod is to have no color correction, it doesn't matter).


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#191

Posted 19 November 2013 - 05:39 AM Edited by PacketOVerload_x64Bit, 19 November 2013 - 05:42 AM.

It's a nice job you did there. My way of doing things, is definitely not without problems. However, if you look through this thread you will see where I was corrected or I maintained my position. The thing about timecyc editing and it's associated state of psychosis, is that there are ten ways to do one thing. Your work looks like it is non-ENB based. If so, I think the method is very much different from ENB based timecyc editing.

 

what I do is make the Ambient0 and Ambient1 have the same multiplier value and make them the same color since Ambient0 (in a nutshell) controls shadow colors for horizontal surfaces while Ambient1 controls vertical shadow shadow colors

 

See, I disagree for one reason: Ambient0 controls "more" shadow on the ground as well. The last time I saw a hue24 shadow, never. There is a blend (see Image below) between Amb0 and Amb1 that I see, which necessitates a degree of analyzing to match the blend so that it looks more natural. Amb1 as I have seen it, comes into play in shadowed areas (opposite to light direction) as well as in direct light. Everything in nature is blended, you will not see a top of a building, sun shining (and blocked) opposite to the side you're standing on, with a perfect shadow down the shadowed side. It graduates as light bleeds from the sides and the the light heading over top. 

 

Say, you wouldn't wan't a bright yellow shaded side of a building to cast a dark blue shadow on the ground, the lighting would look bizarre.

 

Precisely. But I would not make a bright yellow "Shadow" either. Bright yellow / orange is for direct light, to simulate direct (sunshine) light. 

 

 

For getting the RGB color, I go in game and take a screenshot at that specific time and average the bottom and top sky colors

 

A good idea. I'm much too lazy for that given TimecycIV's color editing is essentially a MS paint interface. Can't paste the RGB code in there. 

 

 

 Increase the multiplier values if the color is too dark

 

:blink: This increases the darkness/power/saturation of the effected areas in my set. Increasing multiplier for Sky Colors in general doesn't help at all for that. Increasing lumosity plus lower saturation does though. (Decreasing saturation of the color is a personal preference).

 

You might want to also knock down the saturation value for Ambient0 and Ambient1

 

Agreed with Ambien0. Ambient1 saturation needs to be at a max 240 in my settings though, to create proper window reflections. Which must then be analyzed in conjunction with DirectLight multiplier and saturation so that DirectLight does not overpower (and thus kill reflections).

 

And DirectLight is the color the sun emits and since the sun in the game is mostly a white ball, it's best to just eyeball what color looks right and remember to have the luminosity of that color to 120 and the color multiplier should be a number higher than Ambient0/Ambient1

 

 

Well, not really. DirectLight is the color that is imposed on surfaces in direct light (using skylighting). In the unknown sections (check the timecycIV unknowns tab I uploaded earlier) you will find Sun RGB inputs so you can control the corona's outer ring color and overall light the "white ball" is emitting. It's only a white ball if you use 1-1-1 for R-G-B. For instance, at noon, I use 1-0.9-0.75 which is a nice even yellowish color. At 1800 hrs it is 1.4-0.9-0.37. This is exactly why I state there are ten ways to do anything, the bloom, azimuth and RGB codes for sun all come into play.

 

Exposure is hard to figure out since the exposure system is so bad, the biggest thing is to make sure no part of the map gets to be pure white or black at any time of the day and try to make it the same for every weather and time

 

I agree. I like it bright though. And the darkness I control through adaption and Skylighting's min setting. Best to use the same range for all weathers, then adjust colors and multipiers through the set to match that Exposure range. My problem is I did this, but exposure, sitting at 0.25 and up in my set, was too high to start. So, lowering overall exposure number (so that everything gets brighter), I then adjusted to multipliers and color intensities to.

 

Anyway, I did a quick guide to what I am talking about. These are my observations from the icenhancer based set I am using. I always keep my sky colors very unsaturated, which leaves them almost not in play (?). 

 

Below, there is a perceived overlap between Amb0 and Amb1. The overall coloring of the horizontal map surfaces generally falls under the Sky Bottom color if I am not mistaken. 

 

timecyc%20ambient0%20ambien1%20directcol

 

 

Heres the visuals I built using my approach. DanSVW I noticed, uses a method very close to this. I discovered this after he released his material and ripped it apart to see the great stuff he had done. 

Mine: Packet

 

 

His: DanSVW

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aC7Qolr0_fY

 

 

:)


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#192

Posted 19 November 2013 - 12:44 PM Edited by jpm1, 19 November 2013 - 12:45 PM.

it's true that there are 10 ways to do one thing , but there's only one to do the right way :) . concerning exposure i don't use it much neither but it's useful to create the temporay dazzle effect i described sooner in that thread and which is needed if you want a realistic sunny place effect . concerning the ambient and direct colors things i use them quite rarely myself just to create ambient atmosphere . to create lightning effects on buildings i prefer to use mid grey value and luminosity (combined to saturation/desaturation and sun multiplier)

cool stuff guys :)


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#193

Posted 19 November 2013 - 03:00 PM Edited by boxmonster, 19 November 2013 - 03:02 PM.

It's a nice job you did there. My way of doing things, is definitely not without problems. However, if you look through this thread you will see where I was corrected or I maintained my position. The thing about timecyc editing and it's associated state of psychosis, is that there are ten ways to do one thing. Your work looks like it is non-ENB based. If so, I think the method is very much different from ENB based timecyc editing.

 

Yeah, I forgot to sort of mention that but you can eventually make it look good with ENB I just don't like how ENB skies look and from my experience the lighting seems to go dead after noon (no one has experienced this?).

 

See, I disagree for one reason: Ambient0 controls "more" shadow on the ground as well. The last time I saw a hue24 shadow, never. There is a blend (see Image below) between Amb0 and Amb1 that I see, which necessitates a degree of analyzing to match the blend so that it looks more natural. Amb1 as I have seen it, comes into play in shadowed areas (opposite to light direction) as well as in direct light. Everything in nature is blended, you will not see a top of a building, sun shining (and blocked) opposite to the side you're standing on, with a perfect shadow down the shadowed side. It graduates as light bleeds from the sides and the the light heading over top. 

Yeah, there is blending in reality but the game by default still generates ambient light in a simple way (it does fake ambient occlusion but that doesn't help in this case). I used the weird example with yellow and blue lighting to point out that the colors  don't get blended and you see a abrupt transition of color where the building shadow meets the ground shadow. So I say it's better to stick to one color, this saved me tons of countless hours. Technically (from a lighting standpoint) Ambient0 should be the color of the top of the sky and Ambient2 should be more to the bottom but since the game doesn't blend them seamlessly, I have that method of averaging those to colors out and only using that.

 

  :blink: This increases the darkness/power/saturation of the effected areas in my set. Increasing multiplier for Sky Colors in general doesn't help at all for that. Increasing lumosity plus lower saturation does though. (Decreasing saturation of the color is a personal preference).

 

Have you tried my method for getting the Ambient0 and 1 colors? Did you adjust the DirectLight accordingly? Otherwise there might be a big issue with the exposure.

 

Agreed with Ambien0. Ambient1 saturation needs to be at a max 240 in my settings though, to create proper window reflections. Which must then be analyzed in conjunction with DirectLight multiplier and saturation so that DirectLight does not overpower (and thus kill reflections).

 

Yeah, reflections are a bitch, some buildings/roads have it 10x stronger than others. Very hard to work with.

 

Well, not really. DirectLight is the color that is imposed on surfaces in direct light (using skylighting). In the unknown sections (check the timecycIV unknowns tab I uploaded earlier) you will find Sun RGB inputs so you can control the corona's outer ring color and overall light the "white ball" is emitting. It's only a white ball if you use 1-1-1 for R-G-B. For instance, at noon, I use 1-0.9-0.75 which is a nice even yellowish color. At 1800 hrs it is 1.4-0.9-0.37. This is exactly why I state there are ten ways to do anything, the bloom, azimuth and RGB codes for sun all come into play.

 

The DirectLight and Sun Corona RGB should ideally correspond to each other. I just meant to eyeball it what looks right (my sun literlly isn't a white ball). Just an example, since a slightly yellow DirectLight looks good, you might want to (painstakingly) convert it for Sun Corona only to find out it has been blended with the blue sky and is now a green sun. But you seem to get that already.

 

I agree. I like it bright though. And the darkness I control through adaption and Skylighting's min setting. Best to use the same range for all weathers, then adjust colors and multipiers through the set to match that Exposure range. My problem is I did this, but exposure, sitting at 0.25 and up in my set, was too high to start. So, lowering overall exposure number (so that everything gets brighter), I then adjusted to multipliers and color intensities to.

 

Sounds good.

 

Below, there is a perceived overlap between Amb0 and Amb1. The overall coloring of the horizontal map surfaces generally falls under the Sky Bottom color if I am not mistaken. 

 

You see the most shaded side of the subway and buildings are purple casting a blue shadow on the ground? the game does blend some more blue on those sides but not in a gradient way as it ideally should, just one flat color. If you were to have a box cast a shadow on a plane of the same material it'd be more obvious what is wrong.


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#194

Posted 19 November 2013 - 07:42 PM Edited by jpm1, 19 November 2013 - 07:43 PM.



 

Yeah, reflections are a *, some buildings/roads have it 10x stronger than others. Very hard to work with.

 

 

i never had that issue i mean durably . if you have too much reflection it's generally caused by a setting that is too high (generally the exposure) for the rest . try reducing the exposure a bit maybe . and try to reach the luminosity level that you want using mid grey value . mid grey value sets the global luminosity then the rest is just a question of adjustments . if settings are good you'll get good reflections automatically

here 2 pics i did yesterday with a luminosity level reached using mid grey value

th_GTAIV2013-11-1819-17-51-25_zpsec0fe69 th_GTAIV2013-11-1819-16-35-77_zps082156c

 

everything is not perfect but on a reflections level i think it's pretty nice (for me at least)


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#195

Posted 19 November 2013 - 09:38 PM Edited by boxmonster, 19 November 2013 - 09:41 PM.

^^^It's just the way the reflections are by default. Car glass has much stronger reflections than the rest of the car, there are projects in Firefly island that have glowing windows all the time because they have such a strong reflection value, Plumber's Skyway can look like a mirror if you aren't careful, etc. It's nothing wrong with the Timecyc it is a lot of inconsistent reflection scripts and textures. I think ENB can be used fix the issues with the scripts but the textures have to be done manually which I don't think anyone has done.

 

 But for non-ENB you need to find a balance between too much reflection and too little. Too many people want tons of car reflections and don't care that the roads look like mirrors and the windows of the cars are glowing white when viewed from the side, you, seem to want the opposite. Your reflections are unnoticeable (besides the sun, which is a different value altogether), try making them stronger. I found a balanced value that looks good on mostly everything.

 

cin1.jpg


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#196

Posted 20 November 2013 - 12:24 PM

I honestly don't know how anyone can do timecycle editing without enb. When using ENB you have secondary and tertiary pseudo controls for glass reflections, lights etc. Without those controls I can imagine that the brutal balance necessary to create an overall good experience must be rather painstaking. Hats off to those editing without ENB.

 

:r*:

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#197

Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:42 PM Edited by jpm1, 20 November 2013 - 07:42 PM.

i made lot of performance modding myself , and i recently discovered , after having tried several mods that when you run very smooth you have lightnings and timecyc effects that you don't have when you have lags , even small lags . that's maybe why people don't understand why i'm satisfied enough with the default timecyc

 

@ boxmonster : what reflections are you talking about . you mean these kind of highly polished things that make people run into ENB screenshots threads . this is not reality , i don't need that . in reality cars never look that clean


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#198

Posted 21 November 2013 - 01:59 AM

@jpm1: I was talking about the Global Reflection value and making a point to use care when deciding how reflective things should be especially if you work without ENB (as I do). And cars in the game have varying levels of dirtiness which affect how reflective they are so I don't see a need to take dirtiness into account, it just happens so that the majority of cars in the game are clean though.


T-ru
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#199

Posted 23 November 2013 - 05:17 PM Edited by T-ru, 23 November 2013 - 05:19 PM.

With timecyc and visualsettings you can make visuality, effects almost like ENB, of course without SSAO and Lens flares!

 

Here is the reflection effects which can be edited from timecyc, but Depth FX from Visual effects section must be zero:

Atmosphere section; Sky multiplier - reflection from the sky sources.

Visual effects section; Additional sky options - The coulour of the sky reflection.

Visual effects section; Global Reflection - Reflection from the 3d objects: el. lights, buildings ... etc

Other section; 56 Brightness Sky - Reflection from the horizont, if horizont is enabled.

 

And one thing that I discovered these days about bloom effect:

Atmosphere section; BP Threshold - Prevent glare surfaces from too much bloom effect, so if you set more Intensity bloom and get glare surfaces increase BP Threshold and reverse for more performance - set low Intensity bloom like 0.30; 0.50 and se tnegative value of BP Threshold like -0.20; -0.50 ... :)


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#200

Posted 27 November 2013 - 06:22 PM

And one thing that I discovered these days about bloom effect:

Atmosphere section; BP Threshold - Prevent glare surfaces from too much bloom effect, so if you set more Intensity bloom and get glare surfaces increase BP Threshold and reverse for more performance - set low Intensity bloom like 0.30; 0.50 and se tnegative value of BP Threshold like -0.20; -0.50 ... :)

 

Thanks I'll give this a try. It's been a thorn in my side to have beautiful sunrises and sunsets, firey orange and yellow but to have practically another sun coming from the surfaces of the road/other surfaces.


jpm1
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#201

Posted 27 November 2013 - 06:38 PM

they are two main sky sections , the one made by colors around sun that is set by sun color R/G/B in others and the rest that is set by additional sky options , and of course main sky color in sky section


guidegta
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#202

Posted 02 December 2013 - 08:39 AM

nice guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Download my guide here http://goo.gl/uak2hE


opezdl
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#203

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:05 AM Edited by opezdl, 12 January 2014 - 02:07 AM.

let me add my 5 cents into timecyc disscusion.

 

1. timecyc Lights colors: i've mentioned that due to internal calculations in game engine light casting intencity also depends alot on luminocity of each source light. Making them bright (even high saturation may ruin it) may cause bad color perception in final image and weird intencities when light mets bright objects ( very white car color, road stripes etc)

thats why i would recommend every one try to keep luma as close to 128 (r + g + b /3) as possible. Making light darker is not bad, however u may lose some precision due to 8bit per channel, if u need to make soft and clean abient colors at fine tuning.

 

2. some of the city ads, banners (like "spenders" one) are naturally overbrightened - however there's an easy way to compensate it (if you're using enb ofc) - try to make AmbientSun/SkyMultiplier above 2 (im using 2.8) and then tune exposure and/or tonemap in you enbeffect.fx for that (im using exponential one with ultra low exposure for extended luminocities range)

 

3. bright horizont with proper gradients and darker sky makes ur settings look like HDR photos - use it for your advantage.

 

4. to achieve good horizont gradients u need to mix 2 sky types - enb and timecyc (actually thats one, but due to enb, they split and u can make ur skyline look very interesting).

aditional sky options - red sky makes "low" horizont, while particle HRD and occlution scaler affect upper horizont. they are also greatly affected by BrightnessSky/Horisont (other params)

 

5. ur "fog" scales with main sky options, and along with (4) could make more grading in ur color mixing (big city air is very polluted, and messed up - more different colors make ur preset look more interesting

 

sry that i cannot provide any numbers - my own basically wont help any of you, since i'm using my own bloom/effect formats, completly rewritten from zero.

 

hope those tips would help you ( i guess noone actually tweaks anything anymore )


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#204

Posted 01 March 2014 - 02:14 PM

So what are thoughts on realism in ENB? I personally think for the utmost in creating realistic graphics, DKT70's stuff has come the closest.Colors? Things to look for? IceLaGlace was right about something that I tried to force and it didn't work out for sure: Bloom should not be yellow (should be bluish).

 

:)

 

-Packet


muro808
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#205

Posted 22 March 2014 - 08:54 PM

How do i actually get moving clouds using this editor?


jpm1
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#206

Posted 23 March 2014 - 11:53 AM

How do i actually get moving clouds using this editor?

maybe cloud location adjust in other parameters


muro808
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#207

Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:28 PM

 

How do i actually get moving clouds using this editor?

maybe cloud location adjust in other parameters

 

So, the higher that parameter, the faster clouds move?


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#208

Posted 31 March 2014 - 06:00 PM

Has anyone been successful in creating orange azimuth in ENB with timecycle editing?


PacketOVerload_x64Bit
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#209

Posted 14 April 2014 - 04:41 PM

Does anyone have information on timecycle modifiers? I am looking to outfit the package I have with TC modifiers that are eye popping. I just found out, contrary to what I was told, and tsk tsk for not just trying it myself, that timecycle modifiers get reloaded when you press F1 while timecycle editing (with EditIV/TimecycIV/timecycreloader.asi).

 

PostFXStrength was very handy when altering brightness in my settings (lowering to 0.6). My cutscenes were too dark. What I really would like to know is the settings for DOF. I tinkered a bit last night and couldn't get anywhere with the DOF in the TC modifiers. Does something have to be set in the timecycle for the DOF to work? What settings should I start with in tc modifiers? 

:)


T-ru
  • T-ru

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#210

Posted 22 April 2014 - 07:46 PM

Does anyone have information on timecycle modifiers? I am looking to outfit the package I have with TC modifiers that are eye popping. I just found out, contrary to what I was told, and tsk tsk for not just trying it myself, that timecycle modifiers get reloaded when you press F1 while timecycle editing (with EditIV/TimecycIV/timecycreloader.asi).

 

PostFXStrength was very handy when altering brightness in my settings (lowering to 0.6). My cutscenes were too dark. What I really would like to know is the settings for DOF. I tinkered a bit last night and couldn't get anywhere with the DOF in the TC modifiers. Does something have to be set in the timecycle for the DOF to work? What settings should I start with in tc modifiers? 

:)

I think that some description names of the effects in timecycle modifiers files are incorrect or maybe they work with some values from other files, there is a DOF values in visualsettings.dat and the DOF should work when definition in game is off.

 

timecycle modifiers files are principally about the interiors, tunnels, time square, subways... etc.

 

Interesting thing is that timecyclemodifiers.dat file start with noambient, noambientmult, qwnomoon... till star_junc (time square) maybe these are about exterior lighting and timecyclemodifiers2 start with lighting; timecyclemodifiers3 with nightshade and in timecyclemodifiers4 there is a em_1; 2 and 5 maybe this's about el. lights from windows, lamps. I need to do some tests.

 

So you say that TimeCycReloader.asi includes and timecycmodifiers files so we can edit and reload these file together with opened timecyc.dat from Edit IV?

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