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Michaś
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#5341

Posted 03 September 2013 - 12:41 PM

QUOTE (Scott. @ Tuesday, Sep 3 2013, 12:39)
Just third party, or telematics...Been using comparison sites and also heard admiral was good but they wont come near me ha! getting like 1500 a year on a 1.2 corsa...guess it isnt gunna get any cheaper unless I do pass plus

1500 quid without No Claims Bonus is actually pretty good.

Scott.
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#5342

Posted 03 September 2013 - 12:46 PM

Still a lot of money though! But best all young drivers can hope for I suppose!

sivispacem
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#5343

Posted 03 September 2013 - 01:07 PM

Forget the Corsa. Too many chaved up examples binned by young'uns. Try a Polo, Punto or C2 if youwant a supermini or go ffor something big and sloe like a Volvo 850 or small engined S40/60, or a SAAB 9-3. Fiat Seicento is a good bet too.

Marwin Moody
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#5344

Posted 03 September 2013 - 01:09 PM

if you don't drive every day, why not just buy a veteran?

sivispacem
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#5345

Posted 03 September 2013 - 01:26 PM

QUOTE (jaysteels @ Tuesday, Sep 3 2013, 14:09)
if you don't drive every day, why not just buy a veteran?

Can't get classic insurance in the UK until you're 21.

Marwin Moody
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#5346

Posted 03 September 2013 - 02:19 PM

QUOTE (sivispacem @ Tuesday, Sep 3 2013, 14:26)
QUOTE (jaysteels @ Tuesday, Sep 3 2013, 14:09)
if you don't drive every day, why not just buy a veteran?

Can't get classic insurance in the UK until you're 21.

That's a bummer confused.gif

Michaś
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#5347

Posted 03 September 2013 - 04:30 PM

What do you guys think about this?
http://cars.donedeal...mw-520i/5378734
Not 525i due to tax reasons.

Lurch
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#5348

Posted 03 September 2013 - 04:40 PM

Blackhawk had a similar car. Personally, I think it's way too much car for that engine.

Michaś
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#5349

Posted 03 September 2013 - 06:06 PM

QUOTE (Lurch @ Tuesday, Sep 3 2013, 16:40)
Blackhawk had a similar car. Personally, I think it's way too much car for that engine.

I'd rather have the 525i, but there's no point in buying a 600e car and having it taxed for 1100e.

epoxi
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#5350

Posted 03 September 2013 - 06:22 PM Edited by epoxi, 03 September 2013 - 06:27 PM.

Try comprehensive, and try Aviva and Direct Line (though I don't think Direct Line accept you until you're over 21).

For me comprehensive has always come out cheaper than both third party and black box. I believe it's the actuarial calculations: the type of person who opts for comprehensive is at lower risk of crashing, so it can sometimes actually work out less expensive. Same for voluntary excesses, I have found putting zero voluntary excess has occasionally returned cheaper quotes than otherwise.

It's worth just setting up an account on a comparison website, going to Autotrader to grab some relevant numberplates, and running those through, there are lots of surprises. For instance, with my details, one of the cheaper cars to insure is a 3.2 litre 1992 Honda Legend. There's no harm just running requests through...other than spamming your e-mail inbox with quotes. lol.gif

Edit: Just remember to un-tick all the boxes that give insurers permission to phone you when you put the query through, that can become quite annoying.

The Pizza Delivery Guy
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#5351

Posted 05 September 2013 - 03:34 AM

Is there any legitimate aftermarket parts website that has cheap turbochargers?

Not even going to lie, this would kick ass:

user posted image

Problem is I don't have $3,000 lying around. Is there a place that sells these legit for around $1,000?

Guns N R0se
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#5352

Posted 05 September 2013 - 03:48 AM

QUOTE (The Pizza Delivery Guy @ Thursday, Sep 5 2013, 03:34)
Is there any legitimate aftermarket parts website that has cheap turbochargers?

Not even going to lie, this would kick ass:

user posted image

Problem is I don't have $3,000 lying around. Is there a place that sells these legit for around $1,000?

A $1000 turbo is just asking for trouble

Why would you turbo a Corolla anyway?

sivispacem
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#5353

Posted 05 September 2013 - 06:53 AM

QUOTE (The Pizza Delivery Guy @ Thursday, Sep 5 2013, 04:34)
Is there any legitimate aftermarket parts website that has cheap turbochargers?

Not even going to lie, this would kick ass:

user posted image

Problem is I don't have $3,000 lying around. Is there a place that sells these legit for around $1,000?

That's not a turbo. That's a turbo kit. It's the turbocharger, which is worth about $600, plus several thousands dollars worth of ancillaries to make the whole thing bolt-on.

You could build your own turbo kit for under $1,00 but you'd have to know what you were doing.

The Pizza Delivery Guy
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#5354

Posted 06 September 2013 - 02:27 AM

QUOTE (The Pizza Delivery Guy @ Thursday, Sep 5 2013, 04:34) Is there any legitimate aftermarket parts website that has cheap turbochargers?

Not even going to lie, this would kick ass:

b397fd2f5f8fd317d6bc62bf0cdad7df.png

Problem is I don't have $3,000 lying around. Is there a place that sells these legit for around $1,000?
That's not a turbo. That's a turbo kit. It's the turbocharger, which is worth about $600, plus several thousands dollars worth of ancillaries to make the whole thing bolt-on.

You could build your own turbo kit for under $1,00 but you'd have to know what you were doing.

 

Okay, thanks for that.

 

Also, Guns N R0se, it's because that's all I got, and all I really need. Thought there wasn't any point in a new car if this one's fine, so I thought why not upgrade it.


Lurch
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#5355

Posted 06 September 2013 - 07:46 AM Edited by Lurch, 06 September 2013 - 07:58 AM.

If you do DIY, really read up on everything you need. Source a turbo. Source an intercooler. Buy or build manifolds (or modify stock ones to work). Build your intercooler piping and buy all the various fittings you'll need. Then you need to to think about engine management. Some cars it's as easy as getting a remap of some sort. Others you'll need a piggyback on the stock ECU. Others, you'll need a full on standalone ECU, at which point you'll need to have someone tune it or tune it yourself. If it's not something that often turboed, bet on having to go for the last option. For the first 2 options, remember that MAF location can be critical on some cars. You'll need to buy some ARP head studs. Depending on how high quality an OEM head gasket is and how much boost you want to run, you might can get away with a stock gasket, or you might have to go for some heavier duty aftermarket one. If not, you will have head lift issues. Figure on building a full exhaust system if you actually want it to breath. Depending on how strong the stock parts are, expect to throw forged rods and pistons in once you reach the threshold of the stock parts. That should at least cover the basics. 



Almost all of the turbo experience I have is with friends' cars. Some have had good luck. Others bad. My buddy DIY'd the kit on his E30. Some kind of Garrett, ebay front mount, home brewed manifolds, ARP's, megasquirt, home-brewed 3" exhaust, etc. He still had head lift issues. A year ago, he decided it wasn't worth the hassle and took it back to NA. 

Another friend has a 94 1.8 Miata that's turboed. A full-on 3+ grand Begi-S kit. Garret 2554 turbo, ebay front mount, enthuza 3" SS exhaust, megasquirt, It runs good but we've had to play with megasquirt quite a bit to get it that far. 

 

Another friend has a 240 with an RB25 swapped in. Stock turbo, stock ECU, ARP's and turbonetics metal head gasket. Greddy-style log intake manifold. Aftermarket front mount. He has major boost problems that he's chased for nearly the past year. 


Remember, the potential for boost leaks are everywhere and can be such a pain to hunt down. I wouldn't jump into a turbo car unless you really knew what you were getting yourself into. 


Marwin Moody
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#5356

Posted 06 September 2013 - 02:51 PM

I need a new turbo for the SAAB - any clever ideas?


friendly luggage
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#5357

Posted 06 September 2013 - 07:58 PM

^^ sorry wouldn't know. This is really cool. I haven't had time to read the article yet but I hope all the cars can be legally cold to enthusiasts


Tycek
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#5358

Posted 06 September 2013 - 08:41 PM

Well, you should read it, because there wasn't any miracle in finding all these rare cars in a barn. And none of them is for sale. 


friendly luggage
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#5359

Posted 06 September 2013 - 09:46 PM

I've read it now but we don't know what's happening with those cars. I assume they'll sit there indefinitely?


Tycek
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#5360

Posted 06 September 2013 - 10:14 PM

Probably to a point when their owner will kick the bucket and someone who will take over his belongings will decide what to do with them. And the owner is happy, because he got 180 not able to drive cars hidden in his barn. People sometimes got strange ideas. 


RoadRunner71
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#5361

Posted 07 September 2013 - 11:05 PM Edited by RoadRunner71, 07 September 2013 - 11:13 PM.

Hey guys, does anyone know what car is this? I'm not too familiarized with the 1950s cars, but I I'd say it's a Buick because of the fender vents...

Edit: nevermind, I've found it out. Seems that is a 1957 Buick Roadmaster.

Moth
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#5362

Posted 08 September 2013 - 01:54 AM

Hey guys, does anyone know what car is this? I'm not too familiarized with the 1950s cars, but I I'd say it's a Buick because of the fender vents...

Edit: nevermind, I've found it out. Seems that is a 1957 Buick Roadmaster.

Hell, it tells you in the url.

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sivispacem
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#5363

Posted 08 September 2013 - 08:36 AM

I need a new turbo for the SAAB - any clever ideas?

T3/4 hybrid or T16 seems to be the done thing for more power.

Marwin Moody
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#5364

Posted 08 September 2013 - 12:56 PM

 

I need a new turbo for the SAAB - any clever ideas?

T3/4 hybrid or T16 seems to be the done thing for more power.

 

What the f*ck is a T16(Except the name of my car's specs)?


sivispacem
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#5365

Posted 08 September 2013 - 01:13 PM Edited by sivispacem, 08 September 2013 - 01:14 PM.

The T16 is the Saab-branded Garrett T3 variant used on more powerful 900s. You appear to already be running it, which I didn't know. T3/4 hybrid is likely the best, and cheapest, best given that it is effectively bolt-on.

Marwin Moody
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#5366

Posted 08 September 2013 - 08:15 PM

The T16 is the Saab-branded Garrett T3 variant used on more powerful 900s. You appear to already be running it, which I didn't know. T3/4 hybrid is likely the best, and cheapest, best given that it is effectively bolt-on.

Do you have any websites or something for it, I can't find it on google
I assume that's what I have, it's a 2.0 liter 16-valve engine that came with 158 horsepower (though it's been lightly modified)


Tycek
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#5367

Posted 08 September 2013 - 08:34 PM

Maybe this will help you: http://www.saabcentr...ad.php?t=249602


sivispacem
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#5368

Posted 08 September 2013 - 09:21 PM

My mistake, the T16 is actually a TD04 not a T3 and wasn't fitted to the 900.

epoxi
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#5369

Posted 09 September 2013 - 06:30 PM

To begin the process of de-pimping my car (in the short time for practicality and long term higher resale value) I want to get rid of my alloys.

I don't mind swapping them for new/used alloy wheels or steelies, all that matters to me is that the wheels should behave and look reasonably stock (i.e. no low-profile tyres, no obviously after-market features).

Where would be the most sensible place to find alternative wheels? They shouldn't cost much (since my long-term intention is to sell), but they should keep the car roadworthy for at least another 6 months.

Marwin Moody
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#5370

Posted 09 September 2013 - 06:32 PM

To begin the process of de-pimping my car (in the short time for practicality and long term higher resale value) I want to get rid of my alloys.

I don't mind swapping them for new/used alloy wheels or steelies, all that matters to me is that the wheels should behave and look reasonably stock (i.e. no low-profile tyres, no obviously after-market features).

Where would be the most sensible place to find alternative wheels? They shouldn't cost much (since my long-term intention is to sell), but they should keep the car roadworthy for at least another 6 months.

Just find out what bolt pattern it has and go to a junkyard and nab a few steelies





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