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Zyo
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#10471

Posted 3 weeks ago

SRT drivers never look behind themselves.
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evh5150vanhalen
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#10472

Posted 3 weeks ago

SRT drivers never look behind themselves.

Whatever is behind you is losing and doesn't matter anymore hahaha


https://youtu.be/2p1vy1zZU4g

Quick cold start, it was about 4C.
It was rattling the porch windows in my house when it was idling lol

Question for you, I'm getting ready to buy a Challenger myself here in about a week.
 
I hear they have a pretty bad blindspot when lane changing/reversing in parking lots - on the C pillar. How bad is it day to day?

This being my second Challenger and having a Camaro for a couple years, once you get used to it, you don't really notice the blind spot anymore, that being said It's worse in the Camaro because the side windows are so damn small.

Where I drive a Semi truck for a living I'm used to huge blind spots and you learn to drive according to your vehicles weaknesses lol
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Input
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#10473

Posted 2 weeks ago

22852194_1474356555986609_88912441814924

'16 R/T Plus, and the blindspots are half and half. I got the blindspot detection so that should help.

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evh5150vanhalen
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#10474

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by evh5150vanhalen, 2 weeks ago.

Awesome, B5.. I almost ended up with B5 instead of Sublime, but the dealer that had it were a bunch of dicks lol
My dad has a 2016 R/T plus as well, but his has the classic package and is billet silver, with the T/A hood off my old black SRT
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Input
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#10475

Posted 2 weeks ago

Awesome, B5.. I almost ended up with B5 instead of Sublime, but the dealer that had it were a bunch of dicks lol
My dad has a 2016 R/T plus as well, but his has the classic package and is billet silver, with the T/A hood off my old black SRT

I wasn't a huge fan of the B5 first but it grew on me fast. Your Sublime is nice, catches eyes no doubt. Love those T/A's, would of got one if I had the chance.

 

It's fully loaded which kicks ass, only thing was that it's auto I wanted stick, but hey I'm just thankful to have one at all.

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HeavyDuke
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#10476

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by HeavyDuke, 2 weeks ago.

^

 

Love them V8 muscles.

 

Factory stickers have been successfully replicated. Just a little thingy i wanted to do because... well just cause.

Z8gG7zG.jpg

 

PS the weight on the decal is the max loading weight, not the car's weight wich is 1560kg/3400lbs stock.

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evh5150vanhalen
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#10477

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by evh5150vanhalen, 2 weeks ago.

Awesome, B5.. I almost ended up with B5 instead of Sublime, but the dealer that had it were a bunch of dicks lol
My dad has a 2016 R/T plus as well, but his has the classic package and is billet silver, with the T/A hood off my old black SRT

I wasn't a huge fan of the B5 first but it grew on me fast. Your Sublime is nice, catches eyes no doubt. Love those T/A's, would of got one if I had the chance.
 
It's fully loaded which kicks ass, only thing was that it's auto I wanted stick, but hey I'm just thankful to have one at all.
Sublime isn't for everybody lol
I get far more complements on the color then I thought I would though.
My dad has the 8 speed as well, it puts the power down very good, far superior transmission compared to the 5 speed they had.

Input
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#10478

Posted 2 weeks ago

 

 

 

Sublime isn't for everybody lol
I get far more complements on the color then I thought I would though.
My dad has the 8 speed as well, it puts the power down very good, far superior transmission compared to the 5 speed they had.

 

Honestly I think it stays true it's classic car roots with bright colors, when you look at old pictures of cars you see cherry red, lime green, yellow, tan, blue, orange etc..

 

Oh and the power is great, I just came from a 2010 Aveo - but this thing will kick like horse as if you slam that pedal.


Plage
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#10479

Posted 2 weeks ago

z4ehogL.jpg

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rebeldevil
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#10480

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by rebeldevil, 2 weeks ago.

Well the Magnum is gone. I have a new toy now.

yGOh7lu.jpg

I've wanted one of these since I was a little kid, and I finally got one earlier this month. It's a 1989 IROC-Z. 5.7L TPI, automatic.  It's been bored .030 over to 355ci, aluminum heads, bigger throttle body, bigger injectors, headers and a full exhaust. It sounds mean as hell and it goes like stink.  Yeah the paint's kinda shot but that can be fixed. I couldn't be happier. It puts a smile on my face every time I get in it. It's loud and stupid and awesome and I can't get enough of it.

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Plage
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#10481

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by Plage, 2 weeks ago.

^What ever you prefer...that's the spirit! :^:


evh5150vanhalen
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#10482

Posted 2 weeks ago

 

 

 

Sublime isn't for everybody lol
I get far more complements on the color then I thought I would though.
My dad has the 8 speed as well, it puts the power down very good, far superior transmission compared to the 5 speed they had.
 
Honestly I think it stays true it's classic car roots with bright colors, when you look at old pictures of cars you see cherry red, lime green, yellow, tan, blue, orange etc..
 
Oh and the power is great, I just came from a 2010 Aveo - but this thing will kick like horse as if you slam that pedal.
You should look at a zautomotive tazer, it will give you SRT pages and stuff. I just got one for the line lock and to turn off my DRL (silly canada requires them) but the way dodge did thim looks terrible on a green car, the 4 other halo rings are fine for DRL

Pat
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#10483

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by Pat, 2 weeks ago.

You want an example of why people say electronics are such a pain in the ass on older BMWs? Here's a great example from today. Replaced my burnt out left tail light bulb and suddenly the right one stopped working despite the bulb being fine; in the end I had to swap the right tail light bulb housing (black piece below) for the right turn signal bulb housing (off-white piece), because nothing but the right turn signal bulb housing will work in the right tail light socket and the right tail light bulb housing will only work in the right turn signal socket. Even though everything was working just fine in their original positions before the left tail light burnt out. If you're confused after reading that, imagine how I felt after finally finding that to be a working configuration.

 

efGN9Mq.jpg

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Input
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#10484

Posted 2 weeks ago

 

 

 

 

 

You should look at a zautomotive tazer, it will give you SRT pages and stuff. I just got one for the line lock and to turn off my DRL (silly canada requires them) but the way dodge did thim looks terrible on a green car, the 4 other halo rings are fine for DRL

 

I have been looking at that. Definitely dig it, but for know I'm gonna focus my extra income on paying it off faster.


HeavyDuke
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#10485

Posted 2 weeks ago

Well the Magnum is gone. I have a new toy now.

 

I've wanted one of these since I was a little kid, and I finally got one earlier this month. It's a 1989 IROC-Z. 5.7L TPI, automatic.  It's been bored .030 over to 355ci, aluminum heads, bigger throttle body, bigger injectors, headers and a full exhaust. It sounds mean as hell and it goes like stink.  Yeah the paint's kinda shot but that can be fixed. I couldn't be happier. It puts a smile on my face every time I get in it. It's loud and stupid and awesome and I can't get enough of it.

Congrats, I got a Third gen Trans am WS6 myself.

https://imgur.com/a/HQXyo

Soon i'll drive it for the first time since full rebuild. Getting ever so close now. It had sh*tty clearcoat as well. Baked to death. No rust though because thanks to being baked dry for over 20 years sitting there doing nothing in a bone dry green house.

 

PS going to repaint or diy fix the clearcoat by doing a clearcoat repair? 


rebeldevil
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#10486

Posted 2 weeks ago

 

Well the Magnum is gone. I have a new toy now.

 

I've wanted one of these since I was a little kid, and I finally got one earlier this month. It's a 1989 IROC-Z. 5.7L TPI, automatic.  It's been bored .030 over to 355ci, aluminum heads, bigger throttle body, bigger injectors, headers and a full exhaust. It sounds mean as hell and it goes like stink.  Yeah the paint's kinda shot but that can be fixed. I couldn't be happier. It puts a smile on my face every time I get in it. It's loud and stupid and awesome and I can't get enough of it.

Congrats, I got a Third gen Trans am WS6 myself.

https://imgur.com/a/HQXyo

Soon i'll drive it for the first time since full rebuild. Getting ever so close now. It had sh*tty clearcoat as well. Baked to death. No rust though because thanks to being baked dry for over 20 years sitting there doing nothing in a bone dry green house.

 

PS going to repaint or diy fix the clearcoat by doing a clearcoat repair? 

 

The damage is pretty extensive. I think it's too far gone to save, so I'm going to repaint the whole car the factory color (there's a lot of other minor paint damage that's not visible--scratches, chips, etc). I'm going to change the decals from red to gold, though. Also, nice car you've got there.

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Pat
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#10487

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by Pat, 2 weeks ago.

A high quality vinyl wrap is also an option worth considering. It's not really any cheaper than a good paint job, but it doesn't require the absolutely insane amount of prep work required for the latter, and I've seen more than a few wrap jobs that I could only tell were wraps because 1) they were a particularly unique color or 2) the owner corrected me when I said "that paintjob looks great." And if you ever end up selling it, I feel like most potential buyers would prefer a wrap with the factory original (albeit sh*tty) paintjob intact underneath over even a well done and prepped paintjob, unless it costs several times what the car itself was worth beforehand. These aren't just my thoughts as a spectator, either; they're considerations I've made for my own car's failing paint.

That's all ssuming you plan on paying someone else to do it, though. If you have the equipment, materials and experience to do it yourself (like HeavyDuke is currently doing) then paint is most likely the better option.
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Plage
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#10488

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by Plage, 2 weeks ago.

The problem with wraps is that they won't last that long. How long is of course depending on various factors. The good thing about them is you can easily get them off again and that they provide an additional layer of cover against all kind of bad influences.


Bucko
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#10489

Posted 2 weeks ago

from 9 to 10 how 1980s is she

 

YKtjsoE.jpg

 

DI8ZjFH.jpg

 

YSqjL7u.jpg

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HeavyDuke
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#10490

Posted 2 weeks ago Edited by HeavyDuke, 2 weeks ago.

That's all ssuming you plan on paying someone else to do it, though. If you have the equipment, materials and experience to do it yourself (like HeavyDuke is currently doing) then paint is most likely the better option.

True man. And to be honest the paint prepping is so time consuming 'partially because i want a better then factory finish'. Could also be done quite fast however i rather play around with dents and fix them without filler then flatout smear filler on it and call it a day. Perfection requires skill and or time. And time is money especially for me because i'm self employed. I've got to be honest here and say that i really didn't have much of a personal life ever since the start of the project.

 

I think a decent paintjob should be very doable. In fact i think it would be smart for him to pull off all the panels for the sake of seeing if there is any rust that needs attention.

 

So here for rebeldevil

 

317gzdd.png

 

Here are the most prone to rust areas on third gens. Even on non-rusty third gens these points should always be checked to prevent further rust.

 

Underneath the rear quater panel, because of paint damage from the factory when mounting the plastic bodykit

Underneath the rear quater Panel because of the Kit that was in between double sheet metal layers being old. This causes moisture to get in and rust from the inside out.

Near and around the door hinges mostly on the drivers side, also because of Kit drying out, trapping moisture. Check for bubbles in the paint because this spot will always rust from the inside out in between the double layer of sheet metal which the hinges are rivitted though.

 

Same goed for the bottom parts of the door where old kit is dried out.

Near the top of the T top moisture could get trapped if T top rubbers are gone to hell.

Front part of triangular metal body posts to keep the front side of the bumper in place. They are made out of thin sheet metal and are known to rust through. 

 

And underneath the battery, old batteries often leaked fluid which caused speed up corrosion around said areas.

 

Just the points to double check. 

 

Don't have time for a full repaint? Well, every paint damage can pretty much be fixed, even this flaking off clear. It won't be 100% perfect but at least the car won't get rust because of bare metal until you get it repainted sometime or repaint it yourself. Feel free to pm me pictures and i'll explain when i got the time. 

 

 

 

from 9 to 10 how 1980s is she

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10, and your dog seems to have an itchy asshole, seeing how she/he is looking at her/his ass.

 

Also the car would look good in these colors:

Opel-Omega-Evolution-500-DTM-(7).jpg

 

 

 

 

Also Picture of young little me in my car, before it was mine back in the early 90's.

 

KT2bzYv.png

 

Shortly after this picture the car was put to rest until i bought it to rebuild a while ago.

 

Old picture of young me makes me feel old. 

 

Except for the Baked paint, the car was exactly the same as i rememberd when i saw it for the first time after all those years.

Spoiler

 

Felt good to remove those two little bumper lights which didn't belong on the front bumper. Didn't like them back then, didn't like them now.

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rebeldevil
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#10491

Posted 2 weeks ago

That's really cool that your car has been in your family for such a long time.

 

And yeah, I'm going to pay someone else to paint it. I don't have the time, tools, knowledge or space to do the work myself. I wanted to take a look under the skirts but I'm not sure how they're attached and I"m a little paranoid about breaking them. I did look in some of the places it can rust out before purchasing the car (rear quarters, doors, rockers, etc) and found clean metal. The only rust I've found on the car is a little bit of surface rust on the frame of the rear hatch (the metal that holds the hatch glass in place) which I've already fixed. (Surprising what you can do with a little sandpaper, some black spray paint, and a little patience. And tape. Lots of tape.)

 

I'm going to get some quotes from some local shops. If wrapping turns out to be similar in cost to painting, I'm going to paint. If a vinyl wrap is significantly cheaper though, I'll likely end up doing that. And while the car IS my daily driver, I have access to other vehicles and I carpool to work, so I can live without it for a few weeks if necessary.

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HeavyDuke
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#10492

Posted 2 weeks ago

That's really cool that your car has been in your family for such a long time.

 

I'm going to get some quotes from some local shops. If wrapping turns out to be similar in cost to painting, I'm going to paint. If a vinyl wrap is significantly cheaper though, I'll likely end up doing that. And while the car IS my daily driver, I have access to other vehicles and I carpool to work, so I can live without it for a few weeks if necessary.

Thanks man.

 

The plastic bodyparts are all mounted with mounting plates, which themselfs are pressed into said plastic bodyparts and have threaded metal sticking through a flab of the plastic, which then sticks through the metal of the quater panel and is nutted down with stamped nuts. Not regular nuts, but sheet metal nuts. The metal mouting plates are quite thin and have an anti-rust layer on it. I however found myself making new stainless steel mounting plates for everything because the stamped nuts didn't come off that well. They really are thin.

 

To get the rear ones off, you can unmount them by removing the trunk inner interior parts.

To get the under-the door panel/side skirt off you need to unbolt them from underneath the front side of the car and from within the car. You will need to remove the interior panel next to the rear seats where most people put their speakers.

 

Just another thing i must say about wrapping. You can do that yourself or let them do it. However you must keep in mind that your clear is peeling. Wrapping the car will have a few downsides.

 

On a brand new car, the clear is hard yet flexible. The more it gets cooked, the harder it becomes untill it seperated itself from the base color. This is why yours is peeling. Now on new paint, wrapping a car is quite easy and will last long. 'Did wrapping on cars and mostly bikes' And then it could be removed by using a heat gun and quite the bit of patience.

 

Now if i where to do the same on my daily driver Fiat Punto and pull off the stripes i put on recently. I would simply tear off all the old clear underneath the wrap. Even if i took my time trying to get it off without ruining it. This is because the clear at this point is pretty much a paper thin layer on top of the base, all hard and brittle.

Spoiler

 

I honestly didn't care much for any of that because the car is old and has no rest value anyway. Going to drive it until its getting junked.

 

So pretty much expect if you ever where to remove all the wrap from your car, that the car will be left with almost no clear whatsoever. You can test this yourself, just use any kind of cheap tape on the peeling clear, you will wax the entire clear right off as if its nothing. 

 

Wrapping will make it look good however isn't that cheap as its time consuming, done propperly it will last really really long.

Plastidip is as far as i know cheaper however also a bitch whenever a part of it starts peeling and or gets damaged. Not to mention IMO it looks cheap on most cars.  

Painting, i would honestly rather have a cheap paintjob then either a wrapped car or dipped car. The moment however you use any rustoleum on your car, the value will pretty much hit rock bottom. Mainly because for people such as myself, rustoleum paint is a bitch to remove and even more of a bitch to paint propper 2k paint on. It forces you to go to bare metal before the car could repainted propperly afterward. Paint can job with propper prep work>rustoleum.

 

You are in the US i believe? So anything you need can be bought from thirdgenhawks. I couldn't do that because i could only overship small items and stuff. Even interior parts couldn't be send over without $600 oversized shipping. Ended up making a brand new T top headliner from fiberglass myself 'which turned out to be a good thing because i have a C&C Top' which has a thicker roof beam then regular T tops and side panels and there are no existing matching headliners for sale. And ended up making an entire new rear wrap around aero wing as you could see on the last page. And pretty much everything els is self rebuild/painted.

 

Also if you're one of 'those people' who wants to keep the vehicle door stickers on it and they are in sh*tty condition, shoot me a pm and i'll get you free templates for you with your vin, you can print/or let them be printed by someone els. Because online they will set you back 120 dollar excl shipment for 3 of them. You can see mine a few posts up. I can make other changes on request, free offcourse.


rebeldevil
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#10493

Posted 2 weeks ago

Yeah, I saw that. You did a great job on the reproduction. You know if you haven't already you should go over to thirdgen.org. I bet some of those guys would be interested.

 

And yeah, being Stateside I have a multitude of sources for parts. Jegs, Summit, Year One, Classic Industries, CARID, not to mention about 500 salvage yards across the country.

 

I appreciate the offer for replacement stickers. I don't think they're necessary, as mine are in pretty good shape--but I may take you up on it later if/when the car goes to paint, so I don't have to worry about them saving the old ones.

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#10494

Posted 5 days ago

Been a bit but I finally made a couple really big changes to the car over the last little bit. I finally picked up a set of Depo glass projector headlights which (obviously) made a huge difference in light output even though I'm still using halogen bulbs, but those are gonna be swapped out for a set of LED's soon. The next thing was swapping out my "small" case 3.45 diff for a "medium" case 2.91 from my parts car. This diff dropped my revs at 120km/h from around 2600rpm down to 2100, which is what I wanted since I do a lot highway driving. Lastly I swapped on my winter setup since we already got snow here last week, running studded winters this year and they've really amazed me at how grippy they are so far. Only thing I'm not sure of is the plastidip, so I might add a metalizer to them just for fun.

 

hxBNtBS.jpg

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#10495

Posted 5 days ago

Quick snaps.

 

Across the street shot while at the local shopping strip.

 

lvyZU7c.jpg

 

Visiting some friends in Mosman Bay.

 

Rlp9lFh.jpg

 

Yes, she needed a wash, so that's what I gave her when I finally arrived home.

 

UxVE7VE.jpg

 

That's all folks!!

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Audi
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#10496

Posted 5 days ago

Been awhile

 

sSWHqzAh.jpg

 

Love how the interior looks at night

sSWHqzA.jpg

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HeavyDuke
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#10497

Posted A day ago Edited by HeavyDuke, A day ago.

Just finished the third brake light which goes on the rear window. Rebuild it, repainted it, polished the glass and the rubber has been treated and is as smooth and rubbery as if new. I really like this third brake light as it was an 1986 only option 'and a very rare option at that' and imo looks great on that big rear window. It was produced in Italy.

Ij7TMqB.jpg

lethWYf.jpg

 

Its painted the exact same color black as the rear wrap around spoiler i made for the car. 

 

It was all baked at first because of UV damage along with the clearcoat of the rest of the car. As you could see on this old picture of my WS6 Trans Am:

OmuxC0K.jpg

 

So many parts rebuild and repainted and everything will be as if its brand new soon. I have just a few things left to do before everything will be put together and i'll.. have to wait another few months until the weather clears up to drive it. -_- Wasn't the plan finishing it during the winter. Should have been finished this summer but life happends.

 

The car should be ready by January.

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